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just a fyi: i just shipped one for $70ish with UPS. i had to break it down though. i put all the tubes together and wrapped the hardware around it. sending it completely together wouldve cost the buyer around $160. just food for thought. good luck!!

maybe try using the 12v on the side of console (passenger footwell)?

i have added a pic to my library showing the back panel removed and one with the seat up to see the small gap left over. hope that helps. lemme know if i can help anymore

im still in the process and have the back panel off. ill post a pic when i go on lunch(couple of hours).

bump for box....

facepalm

:supercool: on no rear controls! "Rush Hour" Lee: Ah! Beach Boys! Carter: Oh, hell no! You didn't just touch my goddamn radio! Lee: The Beach Boys are great American music. Carter: The Beach Boys gonna get you a great ass whuppin'. Don't you ever touch a black man's...

thanks jerry, but the links are broken because of the "(extender)." i didnt even realize i didnt actually link them. guess theyll have to do it the old fashioned way for the rest

dibs on the box if hdt dont want it! got any pics and price shipped to 29902?? josephcall(at)hotmail.com

bored at work so here y'all go extenders are sorta pricey... http://hiltonhead.craigslist.org/pts/2507243313.html (extender) http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/pts/2607922899.html (extender) http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/pts/2610457279.html (assor parts)...

any chance of parting out your locks for the cover?? josephcall-at-hotmail.com

15min tops...(but i worked alone) i used a 3/8 ratchet(as stated on the belt label under the hood) and a 2ft tube for extra leverage(got the shorter belt). just push down the tensioner,remove belt, release tension, route belt, i went from under the truck to pull down the tensioner to slip the...

old post...i know,i know, but i have to do this.... "Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads"

so i broke down and bought the $35 harness from trs.com. it fixes all problems stated above and even has a spot for the projectors. i uploaded the info in my library.

maybe you can confirm or provide any further info... see link of same post at explorerforum.com

excellent, were on the same page now! im going to try it after work today if its not raining.

i have to wire the projector solenoid(red and black wires). can i run it to the high beam spot in the plug? see pic below

this i know. i cut the plug off the projector to fit it through the housing. now, i re-pinned my 9007 plug for my 5000k's and i have the extra pin slot for the high beams. did you buy the harness from trs.com? because i didnt, thats the only problem ive run into. i was also concerned about what...

ok. i got my morimoto h1's in my housings and hid's in. i bought a non bixenon 5000k bulb. since i wont be using the high beam wire in my harness, can i ground my bixenon solenoid and run the hot for it to the empty high beam spot in the harness? hope that makes sense to everyone else. will that...

bump for wire diagram also, or even just the high beam wire color(both sides) thanks!