Under Drive Pulley update..

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Todd Z

Well-Known Member
4 wheel drive
2nd Gen owner
V8 Engine
Joined
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Long Island, NY
What engine do you have?
V8 engine
What year is your Sport Trac?
2010
What Generation is your Sport Trac?
2n Gen Owner
I emailed the manufacturer and got this response...



It will work on all 4.0L Fords back to 92. I do not know the new belt number though. We should have stock the end of November.

They claim with dyno results over 10 RWHP!

COOL !!!!

Todd Z
 
Click to View Larger Image



Part No.: ASP526400



Price: $285.00



Shipping: $17.95*



Yup, A big chunk.. The NEW OEM one from the dealer is almost 1/2 that price.

Wounder if I could get the oem one and modify it....hmmmmmmmmmmmm



and looking at the dyno chart, they claim 16 RWHP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:cool:



Todd Z



 
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I hate to sound ignorant... but can you explain this to me?



What exactly does an under drive pulley do? I read the previous post on this, so I understand that it somehow causes periferal engine components (alternator, AC, etc.) to run slower... but how exactly?



And what effect does that have on those components, or the engine itself?



Besides the performance gains, what sorts of changes would one see with this?



What effect might this have on maintenance or the vehicle's lifespan?



Thanks for any additional info.
 
UnderDrive (UD) pullies are smaller in diameter then the crank pully.



Think about a 21 speed bike. Lets say you have chain on the largest diameter sprocket on the rear wheel, and the front sprocket is on the middle sprocket. Ride the bike. Now put the chain on the smallest sprocket on the front. See how much easier it is to turn. It takes less energy to turn the accessories. That is an increase of power. (<font color=red>edit:</font> It isn't an increase so much as the power is freed from turning the accessories)



Since the components turn slower, there is less wear on the bearings. They claim they will last longer, but I have not seen any proof of it. For the engine, since the pully weighs less, there is supposed to be less stress on the front shaft so they claim your front bearing will last longer, again, I have seen no proof to back it up.



Some problems might be your AC isn't as cold when at idle because the compressor is turning slower. The charging system MIGHT be a little lower because the alternator is turning slower. There can be a chance or your engine overheating at idle because the water gets pumped slower.



Those are all possibilities. I know many people that run UD pullies and never have a problem with anything. If you have a good running vehicle in good repair, a UD pully should serve you well without any side effects.





Tom
 
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Anything that the crank must turn through a belt robs HP from the engine...that includes the A/C compressor, alternator, power steering pump, or anything else belt driven, also know as front drive accesories. The underdrive pulley is smaller in diameter then stock, which causes the front drive accesories to spin slower, meaning the crank isn't having to work as hard to spin them, which frees up some HP.



If you underdrive your accessories too much, you'll can ruin them. The a/c compressor, or at least R-134a compressors, use the coolant to lubricate the compressor, and if it spins too slowly, you'll lose lubrication and burn the compressor up. If you underdrive the alternator too much, you'll not have sufficent charging and you'll lose accessory power and not be able to recharge the battery.



As far as maintenance, it shouldn't change anything as long as the UDP isn't too small.
 
couldn't you offset the loss of charge to the alternator by getting a better one? Just curious cause I am thinking of getting the pully but I am getting a winch soon also and I don't want to have to worry about battery charging issues.
 
I understand how it works but I am concerned that if I am using my winch that it will kill the battery if it's(the battery) not getting a full charge.
 
That can be a valid concern. On the other hand, if you had a 500 AMP alternator, but it needs 1000 RPM to operate properly but you are only turning 600 RPM, then I would think it won't be able to keep up with the demand.



If you are concerened about using a winch, and I know those big winches suck up alot of power, invest in a Optima battery. I think it would be a yellow top battery. From what the rep told me, the yellow top is a deep cycle battery that is like a regular crank battery. It can take some major discharges and still perform like new.



I hear somewhere that the Trac has a 120 AMP alternator. At the moment, I can not confirm that though.



I honestly don't understand electronics as well as I wish I did, so maybe someone here can elaborate in greater detail. Don't get me wrong, I know how electric works, how it is produced, etc. I just dont know how RPM vs. load works on an alternator compared to one that is a higher amperage compared to another.



For example:



Would a 200 AMP alternator turning at 600 RPM produce more power (amps not volts) compared to a 100 AMP one at the same RPM. Is there a recomended RPM that is needed to produce the proper amperage and how much of a difference does it make?



See what I am getting at?





Tom
 
Most all automotive alternators/generators are designed to produce their

maximum amperage at highway/normal crusing speed, which is not really the

speed of the vehicle, but the engine rpms, which for 90% of vehicles on the

roadway is 1,800-2,200 rpm. Anything below this engine rpm, and the output

(amperage) drops off exponentially. An automotive alternator is not meant to

charge an automotive battery, merely to maintain a somewhat constant state

of charge to a properly charged battery, with the factory electrical components

originally equipped to that vehicle, operating at normal loads. An aftermarket

battery is (almost) always superior to a factory battery in all respects, yes,

(dry load, cold cranking amps, or"cca", drop-down load, reserve capacity, etc...)

but you have to have a charging system, or as we were told to call it

at the Automotive College that I graduated from, a "battery maintenance device",

or something like that, capable of maintaining that battery at its specified state

of charge, or "specific gravity" (more on this later!). If you have an underdrive

pulley system, aftermarket accessories, and tend to use your "battery maintenance

device" (alternator) below specified rpms, such as idling or low speed driving, with

aftermarket stereos and hella lights, winches, etc..., you are just asking for

a dead battery. If you are serious about this, you should really consider upgrading

your entire electrical system (alternator, battery, cables, switches and relays,

and don't forget about good, solid grounds!). if you're gonna do it, do it right!!!:D
 
Tracn'-

I think you're mixing up alternators and generators....an alternator has a demand power output...the more you power you demand, the more it delivers, regardless of engine RPM. A generator has a very-much RPM-specific power generating curve.



There is also no need to upgrade an entire electrical system because of an underdrive pulley. The alternator will become slightly less efficent because of the UDP, but not so much so that a new alternator is in order. Besides, even with a new, high-amp alt, that only means you have the ability to produce more power, not that more power is being produced at any given time with any given amount of accessories turned on, unless of course you like to run a hot-tub motor, winch, and power inverters at idle...then more power is being produced by the new alt because more power is being asked of it.. Higher gauge wire will simply allow the power that is being generated to get from here to there better. The vehicle's electrical system is not in need of a complete overhaul simply because of a UDP...that's simply useless and uneeded work. Good circuits for the high amp accessories on the other hand is a must, and frame direct grounds a plus.
 
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Todd, I will check on it tomorrow bro!!! I will see what i can do on the price :)



Is that an FRPP part number or another manufacturer?

 

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