Engine #2 is knocking in my 07 ST

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OK - got the paperwork. Here's the details for the record:



Concern: Knock at idle

Cause: Noise in the bottom of motor

Tech notes: Road test, check for noise, unhook #4 Injector, noise goes away. Call hotline, approval, remove and replace engine assembly, remove intake off new motor for installation, reinstall - transfer components, recharge a/c, add fluids, reassmble core, road test, OK.



Part FMC 6L2Z 6007 BA Engine Assembly SPO $3406.01

Core Charge $750.00

Various charges for fluids, etc.

Labor (15 hours) $1168.95

Total $5414.48 (covered under warranty)



By the way, the put 3/14/06 as the production date of my ST right on the receipt.
 
$5400 in repairs on a week old vehicle, and it still didn't fix the problem? Yep. I am keeping my '04, and buying a non-Ford vehicle next time. :angry:



Sorry to hear about your issues. :(
 
Bad things can happen to any brand. As long as it's a one time deal and not too widespread I won't be too concerned. Check out the Honda forums, even they have major issues, and dealer issues, service issues, etc. One Ridgeline owner referred to his as an aquarium on wheels because of the leaks. Now that's funny! Likewise there are many with no problems. As long as the majority of '07 STs have no problems they are no better or worse than the others. The difference here is people think the world has ended if a Ford has one problem where they consider the same thing with another brand as a one time or limited occurance. Having said that, Ford better take care of this case correctly.
 
PRM, you better read the first message, it is not a one time deal, it is the second engine in a matter of weeks that is knocking again.



Hopefully they don't get the wonderful siezing/breaking off spark plug issue that the new body style F150 has. (I doubt it, because I don't think that they use the 'new redesigned' F150 plug in the ST)
 
I saw it, and make no mistake, I agree it is a very odd situation. You are right, my wording of a one time situation was a poor choice of words (I just re-read that). If a large number of '07 V8s start having the problem I will be concerned, but if Ford takes care of this correctly and it's not happening with too many others I'll be okay with it.
 
Heres hoping that it is a limited issue, for all the 07 owners.
 
As far as I know, the only difference between the Sport Trac V8 and the 05 Mustang V8 is the block. My Mustang is all aluminum and the Sport Trac is cast iron. Also slightly less horsepower rating.



The 3 valve 4.6 has run flawlessly in my Mustang and I got one of the first ones (built Oct 04). I don't think there is reason for a huge concern on this thread. It has to be an isolated incident, unfortunate for sure.



I will be following this thread closely to see what happens. I am very curious as to what was wrong with the first engine.
 
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Pat, first engine is tolerable...but a second engine, it would never be the same "new" vehicle. I'd demand a new truck.

Good luck you and very sorry.



:)
 
Nelson, (and others),



That is why I traded in my 2003 Chevy Silverado. I had the dreaded "Piston Slap"

issue that I had tried to have remedied at the G.M. dealer three times in an 8 month

period. They basically told me I was crazy, although not their exact words, that is the

feeling that I got from the service advisor from his attitude.

I even went in with the TSB's from the website that the G.M. service tech's access,

and still the same thing! Sounded like a diesel the last month I owned it!

You should have seen the look on the dealer owner's face ( Tom Lucas, Lucas Chevrolet,

Columbia TN.) when I drove from the Sloan Ford dealership RIGHT NEXT DOOR!

and shoved a purchace reciept/title/all that other stuff in his face! for my '05 Trac!



 
Update - the engine is not knocking nearly as bad as the first one when I compare it to the movie I recorded from the first engine. The knocking sound is there, but not nearly as audible, and it's not getting worse. I can only hear it if I'm in the garage or next to a parked car in a parking space. If sitting at a red light with no one around me, it's not audible. The old engine was audible 100 feet away. In fact, the sound of the injectors firing is almost as loud, ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka, so this knock is quiet compared to the first engine. From what I read, a mild knocking sound at idle is normal because of the mechanics of the cam phaser retarding the cam at idle. We'll see if it gets worse. The TSB says a quiet knock does not effect performance or durability. It's possible that I'm not going to get any service on attempt #2, but we'll see.



Also, in the first engine, it was clear that pulling the power to injector #4 cleared the problem, so I'm thinking that either timing for fuel injection to that cylinder was wrong or it was preignition. Either way, I could have been looking at a hole in the piston or crank/rod problems. I really don't think the first issue was a cam phaser because of this.



On a different subject, regarding drivability, one thing that is starting to bug me is that this truck wants to pull out in 2nd gear from a stop. It didn't do this right after I got the new engine, and am thinking that it's doing this because the PCM/ECM is "learning" that I want to conserve fuel. You give it gas, it starts to pull out in 2nd and then realizes you want to go faster and downshifts. It feels like a one second hesitation, but after feeling this multiple times, I can assume that it's the tranny doing a "2nd gear for fuel savings." Also, if you floor it, it pulls out in 1st, without any problem. If I just keep my foot on the floor to let the engine shift at redline, it never gets to redline and seems like it has trouble deciding when to shift. Almost like a rev limiter is coming on before redline, hesitating and then dropping into the next gear. I'm going to run it a little harder this weekend to see if maybe this loosens things up a little or gives the computer a chance to relearn different driving habits. It's gonna cost me at the pump but it's worth the try. More status next Monday. If this is the computer, I'd love to have this reprogrammed because it's annoying enough to make me hate pulling out slowly.

:unsure:
 
Thats the Throttle ramping of the truck, I complained to The guys at the test drive, and they said it was for economy.. I said a good tune will fix that...LOL

Todd Z
 
Beginning to wonder if Pat's problems are his driving habits. I'd never take a new engine with less than 1000 miles on it to redline. Heck, I've never taken any engine in a car I've owned to redline.
 
Darin, he never said it redlined, he said he tried and it won't do it.
 
Ha Ha Ha!!



You mean to tell me that if you redline your vehicle after only putting 1k miles on it that the engine will break it??? You have to be kidding.. if thats the case, what a POS!!!:wacko: So, basically having redlined TWO ENGINES, that was the cause?? I'm sorry, but what the hell??



FORDS 4.6 is much stronger than THAT!!!:lol:
 
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It's called a "break in period", dust off your owners manual and look for yourself. You see, a motor is a quickly moving mass of a multitude of parts...these parts are not perfectly matched too each other, only running the motor will allow each of these parts to mate with each other in their final locations. Running the motor at the same speed, or hammering on the motor too much won't allow these parts to mate properly, potentially causing problems.



It doesn't matter who makes the motor, the size, the power ratings, how well built, whatever, every motor needs a break-in period to some extent.
 
Break in periods are a heavily debated subject in many circles these days.



Yes extended periods were a must in years gone by, but with modern cnc / computer mass generation of milling parts, there are extremely tight tolerances compared to 20 years ago.

All parts are practically identical.



I'm on the fence on this one.

 
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