Broken pinon shaft locking bolt

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More "erg" for me today.

Got my extractor kit today and went to go and get the bolt out and the bit lasted maybe 15 seconds before it shattered into 3 pieces.

Drill bit #2 is being shipped.



erg.....

 
Wow. Can you get a carbon-tipped bit?



As a Plan C, call around and ask what it would cast to have the carrier removed, the bolt extracted and reinstalled. I'd guess about the same cost as that replacement you looked in to, but no labor on your part.
 
Might want to check the speed of the drill. Either too slow or too fast can make life difficult. A quick and dirty formula is [(cutting speed X 4) / diameter]. If you are using high speed steel drill on a steel bolt, 80 surface feet per minute is probably a reasonable cutting speed. You can look it up if you have different drill or material. You may wish to use a titanium nitride or black oxide bit instead of high speed steel; these bits will require a higher cutting speed.



Also, be sure to use plenty of cutting oil (or even WD-40 is better than nothing) to cool and lubricate the bit as you drill. Apply moderate pressure, but let the drill do the work.



Drilling is a whole lot easier if apply some basics to it.
 
Got a new bit.

3 actually. I bought 2 Black oxide bits at home depot.

Not having any luck drilling into the bit. Been at it for over an hour and I have a small dimple

in the top of the broken bolt.

I swear I've never had such a hard to extract broken bolt in my entire life.

 
This sucks ass. I imagine you are thinking the same...



Hopefully someone here has some advice.



My only thought is to try a smaller drill, and enlarge the hole (if you can make one) with the correct size for the extractor.



Anyone have any thoughts on a torch (to loosen the bolt and maybe soften it for easier drilling)?
 
A smaller drill bit may work.



I have used such heat tricks and they work for certain situations. You want to heat the body containing the bolt, but not the bolt, so that the body expands more than the bolt thereby creating some space reducing the friction. In this case, I think it won't work because you need access to the bolt (pliers, extractor, etc.) once the body is heated and he doesn't (yet).



As for changing the temper of the bolt, I think not. It would have to get at least red hot, but there is no direct access to it and the carrier body is a giant heat sink.



Question for Chogidog: Does the remaining bolt move or turn, or is it stuck? If it moves freely maybe you could use epoxy and a stick a metal rod to it and twist it out. Huge long-shot, I know, but wanted to toss it out.
 
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Prior to heating the carrier, I think spraying with CRC Brakleen would be good because it's the only product left on the market that's still made using the solvent 'TetraChloroEthylene' which is the best degreaser and adhesive remover.



The lock bolt is likely to have threadlock on it so your fighting resistance to back the bolt out with that too. I remember buying a new lock bolt from Ford and the threadlock was already on it. The solvent penetrates really good so it should follow the threads but it may be good to repeat a few times prior to attempt to turn easy out. A broken off piece of the easy out can get stuck in the hole and then your toast.



Make sure to get the RED can as seen in the image below because there is a green one but it only contains a weaker solvent that is unlikely to work. The can comes with a straw but make sure to wear safety glasses while spraying. It also evaporates very quickly and leaves no residue. It's an excellent parts cleaner because it removes any trace of greases and oils. I use it for everything around the house, it really works great. Be careful though because it can dissolve some plastic and rubber materials.



I know Advance Auto Parts and Auto Zone carry CRC. The can is also marketed as 'Electronic Parts Cleaner' which is also on the shelf near the 'Brakleen' and is exactly the same contents but the price is like $2.00 more - what a gimmick!



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Ive tried for hours now and i just can't get the bit to progress into the broken bolt. I actually thought for a bit that maybe the bolt was somehow spinning in the hole. It's not and there's still thread left, so it couldn't. Probably yes on the thread lock as the new one I bought has it on it.

I've tried titanium, black oxide and HSS bits. The hard part about the 12" bits is the flex. You can't go crazy with the pressure. I know as I got a bit frustrated that it wasn't biting into the bolt and pressed my luck to see it it would change anything. It changed the length of the bit lol.

I've tried slower, medium and faster speeds, tried wd40, tried blowing the hole out. Even tried switching my drill to hammer settings for a second to see if I could make a nick in the steel.

The 2 long bits I have both still have sharp points and so does the smaller titanium bit.

Ill head over to AZ and grab some CRC today. When I sprayed the WD-40 and the air to clear it out I was able to force some out around the center shaft seam. So hopefully the CRC will breakdown any thread lock that's still in there.

I've tried the extractors, but the hole that's there isn't deep enough to get them in to get a bite. So I may try to find a smaller hardened chisel to drive in to get a bite on it.

Hell, I even tried throwing in the towel yesterday and tried to buy a whole new diff at the junkyard. Only found one 3L73 rear end around and they wouldnt deliver it to my house.. Only to shops. I even tried offering $50 extra and still wouldn't. Sigh...
 
With a replacement diff, you don't know what you're getting; might be a new set of problems.



With "Plan C", you don't need a new diff. You could have the seals replaced at the same time.



Save yourself further frustration - give-up, quit, accept defeat, cut your losses and then bring a chair and some beers and watch as somebody else finishes your dirty work.
 
Sounds like you only have two more options.



1.) Arc welder - and center a rod in the hole right to the broken shaft while someone turns the switch on/off so the rod welds itself to the broken lock bolt. Try to turn out with lock pliers.



2.) Dremel with cut-off bit and cut into the face of the carrier and directly alongside the pin so you cut into the lock bolt shaft. This will allow you to slide the pin out and remove the axles. Then you can disassemble rear end to remove bolt from carrier on bench or buy a new carrier - $$$? There's a YouTube video of a guy that did it on both sides of the slide pin but his lock bolt went through the other side. I don't think ours do so one cut may do. The guy re - used his carrier with the cuts and said that he doesn't notice a difference in the rear end.
 
Well I've given up.

I'm beaten by half of a $2.19 bolt.

A real blow to my pride here, never been beaten mechanically before.

But I've run out of ideas of things to try and I can't find any more tools to buy to try.

I'm off to find a beer and to try and find a mech I can trust.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.



 
Don't let it beat you. Cut the bolt through the carrier with a Dremel and cut-off discuss just get extra disc's in case they jam and break. You can do it - you have all of here rootin' for you. Do a YouTube video of the procedure and it'll go viral to save everyone else with a broken bolt. Go Chogidog go!
 
Some more thoughts to go on:



I Googled 'broken rear end pinion shaft lock bolt' and in reading most everyone succeeds in using the drill kit within ten minutes. The few that couldn't appear to have experienced the broken piece to be spinning and therefore could not be drilled which I'm thinking is your case. Those with the loose piece spinning have actually backed it out by catching a rough bur with a pick or some have been able to use a magnet pen.



Questions:



Have you sized your broken off piece to see how many threads are possibly left over inside (if any)?



Have you match up the length of your new bolt up to the carrier to see whether the bolt goes all the way through the pinion shaft pin or just part way through?



Have you used a mechanics pick to see if lock bolt piece is loose inside the threaded bolt hole?



Some guys have actually been able to unscrew the piece by catching a bur with a pick tool or a pen type magnet.



Worst case scenarios is to cut slot(s) like I've mentioned or grind the carrier face right through like in the links below.



Some of the old-timers say they have used a socket just slightly smaller than pinion shaft diameter and wacked hard with a BFH until the broken bolt piece shatters. They say it takes just about 5-10 minutes and it allows you to slide the shaft out. Just make sure you watch to see which washers mate to which spider gears so you can match them when re-assembling them in your new carrier. If you choose the grind through method shove rags in the openings to prevent filings getting into the rear end.



Keep in mind that your lock bolt may have been broken the whole time which raises question that your carrier or pinion shaft are bad (having play from wear) and warrant replacement so they don't break the new lock bolt.



http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107063



http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/driveshaft_rearend/sucs_0707_chevrolet_camaro_rearend_build/photo_06.html



https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/80226496/jeepbolt.jpg



Magnet tools:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Mirrors!s!Magnets!s!Pick-Up+Tools/N0722/C0374.oap



Pick tools:



Pick tool photo inside this thread

http://www.roddingroundtable.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=125735



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Parts costs:



Pinion shaft:



http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=M1%2fdPm1wm4OlybcT3KcG0g%3d%3d&id=267902895&m=2&search=true&year=2004&make=Ford&model=Explorer Sport Trac





Carrier:



Limited Slip Differential

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=9lgDzcndbY9ZvvjYzt65CA%3d%3d&id=268520276&m=2&search=true&year=2004&make=Ford&model=Explorer Sport Trac



WITHOUT Limited Slip Differential

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=TIuBnsZht7kCeE%2bV6gH08w%3d%3d&id=268671901&m=2&search=true&year=2004&make=Ford&model=Explorer Sport Trac
 
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ok...

So maybe I give the dremel cutting a try and buy a new carrier.

I don't know how Id feel about using with the cuts.

I really hate losing, so I think I'm heading to Lowes for a rotary tool and a few discs.



On a side note, how do you post pictures on the thread? I've got pictures I could post, but the method eludes me.



Thanks for the pep talk
 
Now that's the attitude! There's no guarantee that a mechanic is going to get it out either. Then he'll just grind it down and do the same as you could but charge you up the backside.



NOTE: Also keep in mind that you need to check that axle when you take the tire off and before you loosen it from the rear end to check for excessive play. My bearing wore a grove into the axle for some odd reason and that's why my seal got worn out. Damn axle is around $450.00 at FORD. Yeah that sucked but I didn't want to mess with junkyard crap. Once a Mechanic would find that to be bad also then you're going to be into him for a grand to do everything.



Maybe you could try cracking the broken bolt 1st with a socket and BFH on the shaft end. It has worked for many. If not, do you own any kind of grinder and just grind the crap out of the face of the shaft end like in the photo on the nastyz28 site. The dremel cut-off bits could be a bit fragile. You could buy an inexpensive Ryobi 4 1/2" grinder that aready comes with a heavy duty grinding wheel. You could also buy 1 heavy and 2 thinner(1 as backup) cut-off discs for it.



http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-7-Amp-4-1-2-in-Small-Angle-Grinder-6130-33/202101584?N=5yc1vZc2fw#specifications



As far as posting photos, I have a Dropbox Cloud account that I use for my photos and all sorts of other files which I can access from anywhere, including smartphone. You can get a free account with 2GB of space by clicking my invitation link below and we'll both get an extra 500MB of space. Anyone else can click the link if you want to get in on this.



Once you copy an image (.jpg) into a folder such as 'Public', you just right click on the photo and select 'Copy public link' in the dropdown box. Then you click the 'Image' button in this 'Reply' section below the message box which will insert a tag [/IMG}. Just place your cursor right between the middle brackets>right-click>select 'Paste' in dropdown and your image will display as soon as you click the 'Reply' button. It sounds like alot to do but it's easy once you get the hang of it. I can help you out if you have trouble.



To get your free Dropbox Cloud account with 2GB - click link below and we'll both get an extra 500MB. Then you can get others to sign up and get 500MB for each person until you reach 16GB. This is a great deal! I've been using Dropbox for over a year now and they don't hassle you to buy anything.



 
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Just a quick note while I'm literally still under the ST, I got it out!

The dremel is the perfect tool. Ring gear clearance is real tight and you want something small.

Thanks a lot!
 
Cool!!! :banana: I had total confidence in you.



That's good to know. I was thinking the dremel might be too weak for the task and eat discs if it bound up the slightest bit. Let us know if you only needed to cut 1 or both sides of the shaft.



Make sure you check that axle for play or any shaft scoring where the bearing meets it.



No need to reply until you're done and away from the job.
 

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