Broken pinon shaft locking bolt

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Brian Armour

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I got a weather break today and decided to work on the rear end. The drivers side rear seal let go and I wanted to fix it up.

When I opened up the diff cover and went to pull the locking bolt out I noticed right away how loose it was. I remember thinking "why hadn't it fallen out?" It turns out the bolt was broken. I got about 4/5 threads out and there are 2/3 theft with the smooth part still in.

So now I'm in the position of trying to get the remainder out of the housing so I can get the pi?on shaft out and finish the work I started on.

Anyone have this happen to them and have a good idea/tool that would help me out?
 
There isn't room for one there or I would have.

I can't get a drill straight on because of the bracket for the bearing right next to it.

Ive seen a couple sites selling extractors for the bolt as I guess it's common for them to break, not to me luckily.

If I can't get it out somehow tomorrow, I'll have to park the truck until I can get the tool to get it out.

 
Buy a 90 degree adapter for your drill. Or harbor freight has a short chucked 90 degree drill for about $35. It can still be tough. Bolt is hardened metal...
 
There really isn't room there for a drill, or a 90* head with the bracket for the bearings right next to it.

I got some advice from my father in law who was a Ford mechanic for years that they would just bash them out, snapping the lock bolt and then take the bits left out.

I gave it a try, but without a lift there really isn't room to get a good swing under it.

hours of swinging gave me a sore shoulder and a 1/16" - 1/8" of movement.

I'm looking at ordering one of these - http://www.amazon.com/Differential-Pinion-Shaft-Lock-Extractor/dp/B0031Q4D5I.

I've read good reviews on them on different sites.

 
It's a really long drill bit. Doesn't have to be any longer than to clear the housing and get the chuck out of the way. Drill extensions can also be used (these are typically used for drilling wood, but can be used for metal; if the drill slips, grind a flat surface on the drill for the set screws to seat). Gets around the angle needed to fit a drill. There is an angle, but it may be slight enough to then use an Easy-out.

Just a thought.



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Odd, I didn't see your picture until I closed the site and came back to it.

I bought a flexible shaft for my drill and tried that. I was able to make a small hole into the top of the broken shaft in the carrier. But thats about it. The bearing bracket next to it is the biggest problem, and then the outside of the rear end. I'm hoping the tool I ordered is like your picture. It looks like what I'm expecting. A long flexible drill bit going thru a guide into the hole where the bolt broke.

I've dropped about $100 soi far on tools to try and extract this. No results yet. Hopefully the $40 for that extractor will be it.

If it's not, I see a junkyard not too far from me just got a 2004 ST in for parts and they want $310 for the rear end. It's a lot to spend chasing after half of a $2.19 bolt, but I need the truck back.

I'ver never pulled a rear end out, so I'm not really wanting to get that far.

 
I just remembered. Harbor Freight sells, long drill bits. I have seen some about the right size. I think some of them are left hand twist.

Might work.
 
Lol, I thought thats what you meant.

My own personal choice of "expression of frustration" was a bit stronger, a lot more syllables and mated with a few extra strength swings of the hammer.

I did order the extractor set off of Amazon. I'm hoping it lives up to the reviews.

As a backup plan, I sold a couple of old cell phones to give me enough to pay for a rear diff at the junkyard.

If I'm lucky and get it out, then I'll save that cash for whatever caused the bang when I threw it in 4wd the other day.

I love the surprises you get when you buy a used vehicle lol
 

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