Todd Z, etc; 302 building help

[Travis Munday]

Hey Todd, et al; I'm building a 302, last nite I was tearing the heads down and lost a small cap that went on the end of one of the exhuast valves (where the rocker arm pushes it down), how important is this little cap? I've got the other seven, but this one has seemed to grown legs and walked away.



Also, I'm replacing the stock cam with a hotter one, 292/302 duration and .520/.544 lift, I also got new pushrods, but slightly shorter then stock (6.816" compared to 6.936"), what will this do to my lift and/or duration? I got the shorter ones because I wasn't sure what the stock length was and guessed...I guessed wrong.



Thanks for the help, hope to have that motor mostly put back together today.

 

[Tom Schindler]

I highly suggest you get a Ford Small Block engine rebuilding book. It should explain just about everything to you.



The Library usually loans them out for free.





Tom

 

[Travis Munday]

I'm heading up to Barnes and Noble this afternoon to get one, if for nothing else, the torque specs.



I've already replaced the main bearings, laid the crank, and put the cam back in. Still gotta clean up the pistons, replace the valve stem seals, rebuild the heads, replace the timing chain and gears, etc, etc....but I love building engines so it won't be that bad.

 

[Tom Schindler]

I find it is best to have a book handy when rebuilding an engine. That way, you can also check the little stuff like clearances. Chevrolet engines are more forgiving then Ford engines are. Build a Chevy wrong and it will still run. Build a Ford wrong and you will have nothing but problems and headaches.





Tom

 

[shawn stonbraker]

Tiger, the only problem I see is with the shorter pushrods. Your lift will be shorter, thus making your duration shorter. As caymen said, Ford engines are finicky. May cause problems with fuel/air ratio and also may not get rid of enough exhaust.

 

[EddieS'04]

That cap is very important...it takes the friction wear off of the valve stem...



Edit; if you are using a hydralic roller cam...try using the stock push rods...if you can still roll the push rods between your fingers when the valvle is fully closed..you are ok..otherwise you will need a shim kit..I would invest in some roller rockers..go with the stock 1.6ratio with that cam.. also same pricipal applys to them also...

 

[Todd Z]

Fast is correct. The caps are very important, BUT if you upgrade to roller rockers, you will not need them...



I ran the same cam in my 75 302 with the 1:7 roller rockers , stud mount from crane cams..

I was happy with them.

My pistons had larger reliefs in them so the larger valves and lift cam will clear the pistons.



Using the shorter push rods should hurt your lift a little, I Would get the right length if you can.

ALSO the rebuilding box is a great tool, because there is sealant and special lube needed on the 302 head bolts, and other components as you assemble.

ALSO buy an oil pump priming rod, and make sure you prime that bad boy before starting..



I also found out the best break in was to run it at idle for the initial start, checking all fluid levels, and let warm up. Change the oil and filter, let cool, restart and kick the idle for to 1500-2000 for a couple of min to set the brgs and cam.



Then drive. I re changed the oil again at 800, 1500 then 3K... IT seems like a lot of work, BUT i have never had a rebuilt engine fail...

Todd Z

 

[Travis Munday]

Well, I found out today that two of the pistons are cracked on the skirts, so I'm gonna have to buy some new ones. I wasn't planning on going with a roller rockers, so I didn't buy a roller cam. A little late (read: expensive) to go back now.



The block is late model, but I'm not sure about the heads...early model, just not sure what year or the specs on them. Where's the casting numbers located so that I can verify what I've got?



I haven't decided if I'm going to reuse the stock lifters (longer) or use the new shorter ones...maybe I'll put the motor together and see how I like it, then change if I want to.



Thanks for all the tips...I'll save this post for future reference.

 

[Todd Z]

Tiger, the numbers are inside the head in the oil valley, OR on the out side edge of the head.

The shape of the side of the head also can indicate the year, BUT the Casting number will give you a dead on answer..

Todd Z