Power Steering Pump?

[Sean M 2]

So long story short, I replaced the power steering pump on the ST today. Basically I had zero assist at idle or when moving slowly (ie in a parking lot) Brand new pump is in, BUT still exact same issues. No assist at low speeds. Even if I rev the engine while in neutral, while sitting stationary, still no assist. I am baffled as to what the problem could be. Maybe rack and pinion? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Hal S]

Internal seal failure in the rack and pinion.

Seen a few of them. You need to either overhaul the rack or replace it.

 

[Kevin Palmer]

Could also be the belt and or the tensioner for the belt.



Why???



Because of the way the routing is done on the belt, the belt is actually thrown over the top of the pulley of the power steering pump, not pulled onto the pump.



If the belt is worn or the tensioner is weak, the belt will slip around the pulley as compared to forcing the pulley to rotate.



Thus, if it slips, you have no assist.



This is pretty common...

 

[scott degroot]

by Coastiejoe,8/23/2008 14:48 MT



Could also be the belt and or the tensioner for the belt.



Why???



Because of the way the routing is done on the belt, the belt is actually thrown over the top of the pulley of the power steering pump, not pulled onto the pump.



If the belt is worn or the tensioner is weak, the belt will slip around the pulley as compared to forcing the pulley to rotate.



Thus, if it slips, you have no assist.



This is pretty common...

It is??? I can see this happening but haven't ever ran into it. :wacko:

 

[Sean M 2]

Belt is brand new, I replaced it today along with the pump. Tensioner seems to good as well. I guess I will have to replace the rack now. Any tips on replacing it? As always thanks for the input guys.

 

[scott degroot]

Here you go



SECTION 211-02: Power Steering 2002 Explorer Sport/Sport Trac Workshop Manual

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 08/13/2004



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Steering Gear — Torsion Bar Suspension



Special Tool(s) Remover, Tie Rod End

211-001 (TOOL-3290-D) or equivalent



Removal



CAUTION: When repairing the power steering system, care should be taken to prevent the entry of contaminants or premature failure of the power steering components can result.



Turn the wheel to the straight-ahead position and turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

Remove the wheel and tire assemblies. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04.

Remove the nuts.



Loosen the clamp and disconnect the hose.

Drain the fluid into a suitable container.



Loosen the clamp, disconnect and remove the cooler.



Loosen the tie-rod end jam nuts.



Remove and discard the cotter pins and nuts.



CAUTION: Do not damage the tie-rod boot when installing the special tool.



NOTE: Remove the adapter from the ball end of the special tool. Apply a small amount of grease to the tie-rod end stud and the ball of the special tool.



Using the special tool, separate the tie-rod ends from the wheel knuckles.



Remove the tie-rod ends.

Count and record the number of turns required to remove the tie-rod end.



Remove the front stabilizer bar link nuts from the front suspension lower arms.



Remove the front stabilizer bar bolts and the front stabilizer bar links.



Remove the front stabilizer bar.

Remove the four bolts and two brackets.

Remove the front stabilizer bar.

Remove the stabilizer bar insulators.



CAUTION: Do not allow the intermediate shaft to rotate while it is disconnected from the steering gear or damage to the clockspring can result. If there is evidence that the intermediate shaft has rotated, the clockspring must be removed and re-centered. For additional information, refer to Section 501-20B.



Remove the pinch bolt and detach the intermediate shaft from the gear.



Remove the nut and disconnect the lines.



CAUTION: Hold the tops of the steering gear to crossmember stud bolts to avoid damaging the steering gear fluid transfer tubes.



Remove the nuts.



Remove the stud bolts and washers.



Rotate the steering gear control valve housing toward the front of the vehicle.



Turn the steering gear input shaft to the right until the stop is reached.

Move the steering gear as far to the RH side of the vehicle as possible.



Move the LH front wheel spindle tie-rod forward to clear the frame crossmember.



Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.



Installation



NOTE: Make sure the steering gear input shaft is turned to the left until the stop is reached.



NOTE: Handle the steering gear with caution to avoid damage to fluid transfer tubes and to avoid dimples in the tie-rod boots.



Turn the steering gear input shaft to the right until the stop is reached. Note the number of turns required.

NOTE: Make sure the steering gear control valve housing is turned toward the front of the vehicle.



Install the steering gear into the RH opening of the crossmember.



CAUTION: Take care not to scuff or tear the inner tie-rod boots.



Move the steering gear as far to the RH side of the vehicle as possible.



Move the LH front wheel spindle tie-rod into the opening in the crossmember and move the steering gear into position.



To place the steering gear in the straight-ahead position, turn the steering gear input shaft to the left by half the number of turns previously recorded.

Rotate the steering gear control valve housing toward the rear of the vehicle.



I

 

[Hal S]

This is actually a very easy job

Your kidding right Scott?



It's a 4x4 and he'll probably be stuck doing it on the ground.



I realize that in the air, with my tools within easy reach it's not rocket science.



But if he hasn't had the bars out, and isn't familliar with just how to manuever that rack out of there, I doubt it will fall into the "easy" catagory.

 

[TRACket Paul]

But Hal, he does have a 3" body lift. :lol:

 

[Todd Z]

Did you use the Upgraded 4 door explorer pump ???



L1 the slipping issue I had and would actually loose steering over 5,000 RPMS.....

But mine was while racing, Not turning..



But i had the shutter an Ford replaced the pump with a higher pressure one...



Todd Z

 

[EddieS'04]

Is it possible you still have air in the system, from the refill..?

 

[scott degroot]

Todd Z



Which shutter are you talking about, I know of a couple different ones. Didn't mean to sound like the slipping issue couldn't be becasue of a bad tensioner or even a bad belt, just meant to say that I don't think this is a very common issue in everyday driving is all. I remember an old F250 that I used to have with a BUILT 460 in it, thing would wind so fast that no matter what I did the p/s belt squealled horribly when I romped on it but not under normal circumstances(kind of miss that truck except for the 4 mpg).



Hal

I still think it is an easy job, removing the sway bar is no big deal, I think it may take me 1.5 hours including the toe set w/a smoke break to do it.

 

[Sean M 2]

Yes used the upgraded pump, its not a shutter. I have absolutely no power steering at idle / low speed. The bodylift will make the install easier however.