Painting Cladding

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Daniel Park 2

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At school (which I take auto-collision repair) and I started a project, to paint my cladding. My front bumper, rear bumper and side skirts. I am sanding all the pieces with 180 grit sand paper than 320, then I'm going to prime them with some high build and wet sand with 800, so i can get it real slick, But i'm having difficulty in which color I should paint it, :(. I have 3 choices, glossy black or flat black or color matched with the truck (estate green). what do you guys think?
 
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Color matched always looks good. It's a personal preference thing, of course. I'd say if you're not sure, you can't go wrong with color matched.
 
I would go with the color match but the choise is yours. Good luck with the project. I am starting mine monday. I am going to color match the stock honeycomb grille.
 
Go color matched, and do more of your sanding between primer coats and less before the primer...or so I think is the advise that others have given.
 
I would go with color-matched. Prior to getting my '07 sport trac, I had an '01 and wanted to paint mine. However, I didn't want to go through the elaborate sanding process. So, if you're putting the time into sanding it - go with the color match...it'll look awesome.
 
Yes color matched does seem popular, but I have a green ST, wouldn't it be too much green? gah, too much to think about.



Oh and the the sanding, I use an orbital sander so it's not that much work. I'de rather get slight smoothing before applying primer so I don't have to wet sand so much. since wet sanding I'll do by hand.
 
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The only thing I would worry about with sanding before is the fact that you are sanding a pebble-grained, soft plastic, and that could actually create more work for you if the little pebbles get "stringy" on you (I don't have any better way to describe it than that). Though, I have'n't ever sanded the old cladding, so I can't say for sure.



TJR
 
Nah, the plastic didn't get hairy when I started to sand it, If thats what u mean, little pieces of plastic sticking out of the plastic once sanded like hair, but it didn't happen. it started to do that when I sanded with 320, so i switched to 180 and it's perfect. I've only finished the rear bumper, and I finished the rear in about 4 hours. just with 180, And I think im not going to sand it with 320 since it's real smooth now, just onto the other pieces and then high build primer.
 
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People here have done it both ways (taken apart, or masked). If it were me, and you wanted a real professional job with the least overall hassle, I would take it apart. That way you can sand in really close and avoid all that masking. I suspect it would be about the same time to take apart than it would be to mask and prep.



I never had to do any of this...my XLT Premium came mono-toned already:



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TJR
 
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i like 2 tone i thing it gives a nice look....do you have any pin stripping?? i was going to match the cladding w. my pinstripe..something to think of..:huh:
 
Yes the BEST paint code ST !!!!....

I say go black!!!! AND there is no need to sand to get it smooth.....

Todd Z

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My ex-girlfriend's dad was the Ford bodyshop manager and he was going to paint my cladding. However, he said that it would be best not to do it...due to the paint not sticking to the plastic very good and could come off while washing it, etc...



He said the BEST way to go about it, is to sand it down.
 
I agree with TJR watch the sanding if you go to deep or sand too hard you will scratch it make it stringy and cause deep sand scratches tha will not come out. You also need an ahesion promoter and plastic primer. other than that go color coded. Just did mine cladding and all handles[Broken External Image]:
 
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