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Over Heating

Thread in 'Engine' started by EddieS'04, Mar 25, 2020.

  1. EddieS'04

    EddieS'04 Well-Known Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    Please read thoroughly before making sujestions. I believe I have covered all bases.

    I have a strange issue. This started at the end of last summer. So I changed the fan clutch. That wasn't it.
    I only overheat when idling for awhile, in neutral or in gear. Only when the AC is on.
    A few years ago i put a 180 T-Stat in. It always ran 182 to 184 on my scan gauge.
    Now when idling under the above circumstances once last summer while idling for along time. The Rad cap did not relieve. So when the temp shot up, way above unknown 200's. Temp shot very fast. It blew the top rad hose off. So I also changed the rad cap.
    I have kept an eye on the temp ever since. So I don't pop another hose while idling.
    Today our temp is about 90. While idling in a burger take out. The motor temp edged 200. So I shut the AC off, and the temps dropped to 182..:confused:..Unless I have new faulty fan clutch. It seems ok when I check the resistance, hot and cold. The clutch seems normal to me.
    I only overheat when idling with the AC on..:confused:..When driving city or Hwy with AC. My temps stay at 182 to 184. No mater what the ambient temp is.
    I have always kept up with rad- fluid change also. I did so last summer. Also washed the fins and outer core.
    None of this points to t-stat or pluged radiator. Input is appreciated. This is making me feel stupid..o_O
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2020
  2. Todd Z

    Todd Z Well-Known Member 2nd Gen Owner V6 Engine V8 Engine

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    Could be a bad water pump..... when its idling have you put the heat on in the truck with windows down to see if it cools it??
    Also put in neutral and raise rpms to like 1500??
    How is your belt and tensioner?
    Replaced the rad cap?

    All of these test different parts of the engine.
     
  3. EddieS'04

    EddieS'04 Well-Known Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    Thanks Todd
    New rad cap last summer after blowing the top hose off. If I didn't have the oem clamp it might have busted the radiator tank.

    My Trac is 16 year old. I might arbitrarily change the radiator. Oem aftermarket style about $150 here. Maybe less, I have one of the aftermarket rad suppliers warehouse's, 2 miles down the street.

    Belt good and tight, with .5" shorter belt. I am running under-drives. maybe water pump. But that don't add up when driving all is well.
    I have tried raising the rpm. It helps but not very fast at lowering temp. Odd thing is traveling at any speed with AC on, temps stay at 184 max. Of course that is more air movement. So I don't suspect the t-stat or water-pump.

    I haven't tried the heater on trick. That Would Be turning the AC off though. Unless I can figure out a way to bypass the selector switch. Run the compressor and have the heater water valve open together. I could direct connect vacuum to the water valve.

    The only way I can think the condenser core is hotter than norm. Would be the compressor low on oil, but it would have imploded by now.

    Because of the air flow issue. I'm thinking, new radiator. These cross-flow designs, we cant tell if tubes are plugged. Shamed to say I only have 60K on the trac.

    Thanks Todd, you made me think about stationary and moving air flow.
    Do you know of a company that builds better than oem design RADS. Specific app, not a custom order.

    Like you, been tinkering and building autos since 16, now 70. Making me look stupid. Never had this one before..:confused:
     
  4. Apats77

    Apats77 Member 1st Gen Owner 4 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    Did you see if there is Debris between the condenser and rad?
     
  5. EddieS'04

    EddieS'04 Well-Known Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    Checked that when I washed condensor and rad fins.
    Thanks
     

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