Need some help here - engine mis-firinging, compression-related?

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Rob Lymburner

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Jan 10, 2001
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Location
Centreville, VA
My '01 Job 1 is in the shop and I'm very concerned about my truck. 133k miles on the truck and has never given me any issue until last Friday when I fired it up and it was shaking terribly. Check Engine light was on so I took it to Advance Auto Parts and the handheld diagnositc machine reported "misfiring on cylinders #4 and #5". I bought some new plugs and dropped it off at the shop last night.



Mechanic called this morning and wants to run compression test on the engine (starting with cylinders 4 and 5) to make sure valves are sealed. My heart stopped when I heard this - NO!



fwiw I had Zabtec ignition coil and wires installed last summer.



Any help here? What else might the mechanic suggest he do re: troubleshooting?
 
Yeah, i agree with eddie..... Sad but true.........



Todd Z
 
Ugh ... just got off phone. No compression in 5th cylinder. Guy suspects its the intake valve. He's not trying to upsell his work, he can't replace engine.



:cry:
 
Rob, you should be able to find a good used motor for $1500. I think we have had a few mmembers do this for around $2k complete If your trac is in good shape and you like it. Worth it IMO. Beats buying a new one.
 
I'm in Northern Virginia - any contacts up here for either the service or locating good used motor?



Mechanic at the shop gave rough estimate of "starting at $3k" for a used engine - $2k much more bearable and I'd lean that way if I can get a few more years out of my truck. Good shape, just got my first real scrape on the paint a few weeks ago.



If I could sell it ~3 years down the road for near what I'm putting into it, then that would make this an easier decision. I have "extras" such as hard tonneau, PIAA lights on safari bar, upgraded shocks & ignition system, and similar minor upgrades that don't add to the value of the vehicle, but definitely would increase the price tag of a new vehicle if I wanted to buy a newer one.
 
I think the $2k Eddie is talking about is for the do it yourself crowd.



I would say the labor cost for a new engine is pretty high as pulling a motor can be some work. You need to ask how much the engine cost and labor to really see how it breaks down.



Now that you know the problem call around to all the local shops and ask them on cost. Do some research online on the shops and see what people are saying. You might be able to buy the engine on your own and just get a shop to install it might be cheaper that way, hence why trying to ask about cost of labor and all.



You could also sell it as is probably. Still 3k is less then a new car no matter how you look at it.
 
That sucks..... i am curious, this seems to be a rash of intake valves......



Todd Z
 
Rob,

If the valve did not tear up the piston too bad or the score the walls of the cylinder, you may be able to get away with rebuilding the head. On the ST, with the rear timing cassettes however, I do think the engine would need to be pulled to do this.



I am no master mechanic by any means, but I have a 2001 Escort (Also SOHC motor) that dropped a valve seat and it chewed the top of the piston a bit, and bottom of the head a bit. I had a machine shop rebuild the head, and I pushed the #4 piston to TDC, and used a dremmel to smooth out the nicks... It worked and its running good again. I spent about $800 for head work, timing belt kit, tensioner, water pump, new head bolts, etc... I did the work myself. Just a thought...



Todd,

I was thinking the same thing... Is this from the valve spring breaking as I have heard in the past? Just wondering about some preventative maintenance if at all possible...
 
Blah, looks like I'll have to do some calling around - I'm limited to the 2/5 wrenches on the DIY scale (missed that $2k was DIY). We gotta have some folks here from NOVA chime in!

 
From my recent engine change .............Bob



Engine Issue......Followup by PlymBob'02Member Profile, 7/23/2010 07:51 ET

Category - Engine



I did go with the engine change (used with 86K miles, to replace my 105K mile engine) for $2300. I have a six-month warranty, and all seems to be good. I have put about 500 miles on the replacement engine with no issues (no leaks, no hiccups, Thank GOD!)



As I have mentioned in the past, I have been using Royal Purple in my Trac since it was new. My mechanic, who owns a collision repair shop, is and has been familiar with my Trac as he has been doing most of the servicing. When I asked him about using RP in this replacement engine, he advised against it saying, he didnt know what this engine had been running and since the synthetic oil is thinner it may cause some seepage/leaks through the gaskets. He suggested I stay with regular oil in the engine.



My question to the Trac team is is he right or can/should I go back to using the RP which I had become VERY comfortable with.?



As always.. Thank You All for your input and help.

Bob A
 
Go figure, the only ST available at a dealer in Northern Virginia is a '10 STA (beautiful vehicle, went by it tonight). Can't pull the trigger for something $40k.



What options do STers have now that our model is at end-of-life? Someone link me a thread or two? I'm heartbroken at this point that I have to replace my Trac.
 
Is the diagnosis absolutely, positively for certain?

No compression in 5th cylinder. Guy suspects its the intake valve.
Click to expand...

Find out for sure.

If this is a place that changes plugs but not major work, maybe they got it wrong...could be something else.



If it did break a valve, maybe it doesn't require an engine change.



If you want to keep the truck, then I would say do a little more research and find someone who will work with you and fix the truck for what you want to pay.



kossdust:
You need to ask how much the engine cost and labor to really see how it breaks down.



Now that you know the problem call around to all the local shops and ask them on cost. Do some research online on the shops and see what people are saying. You might be able to buy the engine on your own and just get a shop to install it might be cheaper that way, hence why trying to ask about cost of labor and all.
Click to expand...

Good luck!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hmm... worth taking it to another shop for a 2nd opinion, if it means there's a chance I can save my truck. What would I ask them to do? Can you check the intake valve? (sorry, noob question)



Am I tearing my truck up by driving it between shops or back/forth for local errands? (~2-3 miles/day)
 
Rob, pull the valve cover on the driver side. You will be able to see if it droped the valve. Probably only broke the valve spring, since it is still running. If the valve drops it will hit the piston and lock up the motor.



If the spring is all that is broke. That can be replaced without pulling the motor or head. I wouldnt drive it anymore.



Did you try the oem coil yet?? You need to eliminate the SD coil as the misfire.
 
The piston could have Hit the valve and Put a hole in the piston.... they are only hyperutectic pistons... very soft.....



I do agree Change the coil and check the wires.....



Todd Z
 
Thanks for the suggestion - I'm thinking I take it to the dealer since they'll be able to test with OEM parts (doubt a small shop would have ignition coil sitting around that will work). Dealer told me $110 for the diagnostic, chump change if they are able to identify the cause (and it not the whole engine!)





btw I went to "car-part.com" to look for used engines - is this mine?



"4.0L (SOHC), LHD, exc. flex fuel; (VIN E, 8th digit), 4 Dr, Sport Trac, thru 7/23/00, 4x2 "



My truck was built 06/00 ... what engines will work? (ie doesn't have to be ST, could be Explorer?)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It will work. someparts from your will be needed. Intake etc. Dont worry about the flex fuel. The flex fuel system is SS to withstand the ethanol corrosion.
 

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