Mobil 1 Oil Change

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bk10s

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I have 220K on my 2002 Sport Trac. I am very consistent with oil changes and tire rotations, every 3-5K depending if I use regular or synthetic oil. Usually buy whatever is the best value with a rebate. Tensioners have been replaced. My question: I bought some Mobil 1 with an attractive rebate and they claim 20K mile protection. Does anyone trust that? BTW, I am not a believer in "lifetime" fluids - Coolant, transmission fluid, etc.
 
Even with the "best" oil, I would continue to do Oil+Filter changes every 4kMiles\6Mths,
simply because the notorious V6~4.0L~SOHC OilPressurized TimingTensioners tend to
loose adequate pressure\tension on the TimingChains as they age;
I suspect a large part of this problem is due to oil gum+grit buildup inside the Tensioners.
If you do go longer, I still would change the Filter every 6mths,
then possibly do a premium Oil change once a year, but no longer than that.

I've gotten the habit now for several years, of spraying a little CarbCleaner down the OilDipTube
& into the ValveCover OilFill, before an Oil+Filter change; let the engine run idling for 5~10min,
then do the Oil+Filter change; logic is this helps clear any varnish+gum+grit from the system.
 
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Ohhhh jooyyyyyy an internet oil thread…

Lol jk 😜

It’s all how you drive it and where you drive it. If you have a short commute, and the oil temps never get hot enough, then no, very no. Not many oils can withstand that amount of abuse, in terms of acid buildup. If you’re in colder climate, it’s even more essential.
But if you have a “long” commute(20+ mins) then I wouldn’t be horribly worried about running 12-15k on a 20k rated oil. This is assuming you are using a quality filter which is also rated for the same interval or more.

That said, I’ve changed the way I’ve been doing oil changes for a year or so now is, utilizing a Fram Titanium filter and full syn 10w30 super tech from wallymart. I will run 3-4k miles and do an oil change only, leaving the fram installed, and at the next oil change(3-4k miles)change both. Super tech is some damn decent oil for the price(check out project farm on YouTube on it). I get a bulk box of 12qts for $40. I could easily get 5-6k out of the OCI if I didn’t have the blower and WMI(meth and oil are nasty together).

Just cause the jug of oil says one thing, doesn’t always mean it’s the rule of thumb. 👍🏼
But, most extended OCI oils do have better additive packs.
 
I agree with dillard but i check for any discolor along the way, i have never had a engine failure, and even my v10 excursion runs perfect but never ever have i strayed away from maintenance, i see quite a few people cheaping out on quality for cheaper deals and they have issues that i would fix, there is a huge difference between filters and oil and mobil 1 is way good amsoil is too. oil is the blood for engines. i personally would not run fram, maybe 15 years ago but they are not good. but hey i am old and took care of fleet vehicles for years. we used bulk oil for 10 years and we had so many drivetrain issues, The last ten switched to amsoil in trans, axles and engine with less failures and with extending the changes it washed the cost. this was 30 landscape vehicles so daily abuse.
 
Not that we are talking about motorcraft filters… but since we are talking about filter we won’t use…. I personally wouldn’t run motorcraft, as then have been known to fail(a lot) in recent years, and those were always the go to for ford filters. Times change, products evolve.

The high level Fram filters are extremely stout and are 100% better than most motorcraft filters. I’ve had 2 fl820s and 1 fl500 fail, and this is well documented on BITOG. Filter media coming apart and bypassing all oil flow, or media blocking outlet in the filter head. I agree, Mobil 1 makes very good filters as well. However seeing the construction of the titanium fram filters first hand-inside and out, multiple times, I can fully support their new filters. Yes, years ago they were absolute garbage… that has changed, drastically. Now, they have fully synthetic filter media-and more of it, double reinforced backing, and better check valve pressures(albeit not the best check valve position). This is why this line of filters are in the $20 range, not exactly a cheap filter.

Lots of good videos on filter dissection on the YouTubes, and very good documentation on BITOG for most all filters.

I’d be curious if your bulk tank had stirring devices. A lot of additives fall out of suspension sitting in hot bulk tanks, cause the oil to perform sub par. This is why shaking an oil bottle is a good habit to have. When I ran a shop for a few years, we had a bunch of engine issues with our natural gas generators. Oil samples showed very little additives present. After stirring pumps were installed, oil went back to normal, and we had less failures.
 
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And i so agree with you on motorcraft, they were ok at best and have not seen any info on current filter test as of last few months and we used 50 gallon drums with manual pump that went down but i have never seen any breakdown residue but that is to the naked eye. you can see the pressure in bulk oil run a few pounds less at running temp then amsoil in the same vehicle. personally i think amsoil is over priced and now that i moved i run mobil 1.
 
Ohhhh jooyyyyyy an internet oil thread…

Lol jk 😜

It’s all how you drive it and where you drive it. If you have a short commute, and the oil temps never get hot enough, then no, very no. Not many oils can withstand that amount of abuse, in terms of acid buildup. If you’re in colder climate, it’s even more essential.
But if you have a “long” commute(20+ mins) then I wouldn’t be horribly worried about running 12-15k on a 20k rated oil. This is assuming you are using a quality filter which is also rated for the same interval or more.

That said, I’ve changed the way I’ve been doing oil changes for a year or so now is, utilizing a Fram Titanium filter and full syn 10w30 super tech from wallymart. I will run 3-4k miles and do an oil change only, leaving the fram installed, and at the next oil change(3-4k miles)change both. Super tech is some damn decent oil for the price(check out project farm on YouTube on it). I get a bulk box of 12qts for $40. I could easily get 5-6k out of the OCI if I didn’t have the blower and WMI(meth and oil are nasty together).

Just cause the jug of oil says one thing, doesn’t always mean it’s the rule of thumb. 👍🏼
But, most extended OCI oils do have better additive packs.
I agree with you but change titinumium filter at 12/15 k
 
First off, listen to any mechanic and they will tell you change your oil! Often because it's cheap to do so and a engine isn't. I change mine oil on my 3 vehicles around 2000 to 2500 miles. $25.00 for a jug of full synthetic and buy motorcraft oil filters at $3.97 a piece. Watch fordbossme on YouTube as he does tons of oil testing. And goes into depth about filters and motorcraft filters are a good filter because of how the bypass is on these. I just did my valve covers at 208000 miles and you would think the engine is 2 years old with how clean it is inside of it.

Anyone who thinks going 10000 miles between oil changes is a straight up retard lol... 2004 explorer has 208000 miles 2010 explorer has 193000 and my mustang gt gas 124000. Never a issue with any of them. My favorite mechanic JimmyMakingitwork down in Kissimmee Florida will tell you please change your oil if you don't have money for hefty engine repairs.
 
Changing oil too soon is just a waste of money.
10000 miles under normal circumstances, with the proper oil and filter is pretty normal. I’d suggest you do more research on the subject matter before you start name calling.

But what do I know… I’ve only been turning a wrench for 20yrs.


If you only take one thing away from this discussion, DO NOT use motorcraft filters. Please do your own research(so you don’t think I’m cherry-picking) on the failure rate of FOMOCO filters.
 
Factory suggested mileage on my 2012 Expedition is 7500 miles between oil changes.
 
Here you go. This is the guy who dissects every filter in different videos. And sends every oil sample in to Blackstone labs.
Straight from a Ford guy who used to work at a dealership, DO NOT GO BY THE FORD RECOMMENDED OIL CHANGE SCHEDULE...


The funniest thing about that entire post is a so called wrench turner saying anything under 10000 miles is a waste of money. I can only imagine what it looks like under those valve covers.

I swapped my first engine in the driveway in 1986 so I guess I've been a "wrench turner" for a few years.

I ask you one thing? Show me an engine that has blown up due to excessive oil changes??
How dare you people laugh at others for something called preventive maintenance!



 
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WE have 2 F150's with the 3.5 V6 engines, and 1 Sport Trac with a 4.0 V6. The shop I worked for recommended to change oil every 5,000 miles, with a new filter each oil change. All 3 of our trucks gets the Motorcraft semi-synthetic oil. I've followed this policy for years.

We had a 2010 F150 with a 5.4 engine. The cam phasers went bad. The truck followed the same oil change schedule. Upon taking the front of the engine apart, the engine was as clean as a new one. ONLY MC oil and MC filters were ever used. FWIW.
 
If you want a better price on amsoil, go to their website and become a preferred customer. You can order what you need or want directly from them and its much cheaper than the local parts store. Ive been running nothing but amsoil products in my harley since its break-in oil change over 20 years ago, and never had any issues, 10k full service(oil, filter, primary, and transmission). I bought my 01 st almost a year ago. I switched to royal purple on first service with motorcraft filters. Definitely smoother and quieter. Almost 250k. 93 f250 5.8 5spd 4x4, valvoline conventional and motorcraft filters around 145k. 5k service interval. 95 f350 7.3 5spd rotella t4 and motorcraft filters 190k 5k service. 96 f250 7.3 e4od 4x4 rotella t4 motorcraft filters 5k service. 2000 peterbilt 379 cat 6nz c15 18spd 1.25m 20k service rotella t4 and cat filters.2021 kenworth w900 cummins x15 8ll 204k 10k service rotella t6 fleetguard filters.
 
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I never said under 10k miles is a waste of money. I clearly stated, if you’re changing oil too soon, it is a waste of money. If you’re not getting the full useable life out of your oil, you are literally throwing money away, period. Please don’t try and twist my response. A blown up engine from excessive OCI’s? Yeah, we all know that’s highly unlikely… and not really what the discussion is about.

Oh, here you go. 197k miles, when installing cams. 7k mile intervals for 98% of its life.

Also, a quick screenshot of a google search of ford filter failures, take your pick on reading choices. I don’t have the pics of my failures anymore, otherwise I would post first hand experience.

Also, who is laughing? I’m certainly not, nor was there anything in my post. Just trying to share good knowledge that’s been tested by numerous sources, and not old wives tales.

And this “so called wrench turner” has built 1000’s of engines in my professional career, amongst many other things.
 

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If someone is truly a actual mechanic and allows their oil to become contaminated and breakdown with 10000 mile oil changes you are the true dolt!!!
I'm guessing no one has ever heard of Blackstone labs and sent in a oil sample of a 2500 mile oil, and a 8000 mile oil sample.
I took a sample from my brother's car,
The universal average amount of iron found in that engine, based on an average 5,400 mile oil change, is 11 parts per million.
My brother’s result: 167. That’s more than 15 times as much iron in the oil!
People can't understand oil breaks down over time...

Instead of someone telling someone else they are foolish by changing oil too soon, take your 12000 mile oil and send it to Blackstone labs!!!

Lol dude chill. He never said anything other than changing your oil too soon is a waste of money. If someone wants to change their oil at 2000 miles, hey whatever floats your boat it’s your money. Hell change your oil and get Blackstone reports once a month if ya got money to burn lol
 
A friend at work Last week picked up his 2023 ugly ford bronco $1179 a month Bronco. I asked his a few days ago how many miles he's got on it? About 1100 he said. I asked when he's changing the oil at least the first time and he said 5000 first oil change and 7500 intervals after that! I guess he doesn't know anyone that works on ecoboost engines lol.
Some people! You pay $70000 for a vehicle but can't spend $30.00 on oil change lol
 
A new Bronco for $1179/mth, assuming financed for the next 7yrs+; ouch that's crazy!
I'll just keep maintaining my 22yo SportTrac, for as long as I'm able.
 

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