Looking at getting my wife a 2013 Mistubishi Outlander GT. Thoughts, suggestions???

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Jerry Gerner 2

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Ok so Carol's 1997 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD isn't getting any newer (it's only got 110K miles) but it's not the best on fuel and she mainly drives around the city (it get an avg. 9-10mpg no matter city or highway). The interior is perfect and the exterior doesn't look too shabby shy of the rust on the right rear rocker and starting on the rear wheel wells. It runs like a top but it's time to get her something newer, more reliiable and better on gas.



I did a search over the net, looked at all the mid and compact SUV's at different dealers, parking lots, etc...



I'm seriously looking at the Outlander GT. I looked at the Edge, Esccape, Journey, Liberty, Compass, etc... and all of those were really crammed for space in the cargo setion and in seating (I'm 6'6" tall, she's only 5'3" but I'll be riding in it as well as driving it too). I would've liked to get the Outlander Sport but it's too small compared to the regular Outlander.



I like the warranty, selectable AWD/ 2wd/ awd/ locker awd, rear camera and fold down stubby tailgate.



I value your guys and gals opinions when it comes to vehicles so let me know what ya'll think. Thanks



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this is what i used when i was looking at getting my trac and for my parents f150 and fuzion sport... it hasnt let me down yet and it seems that the outlander is pretty good
 
Narrow it down to a few and then let her decide with test drives. JMO
 
We went out to the dealer tonight and test drove the 2012 Outlander GT S-AWC V6, I drove it too (if I don't like it we ain't getting it).:driving::supercool: Needless to say I liked it. We'l be going back tomorrow to finish the deal. I'll post pictures of the actual vehicle tomorrow.









 
6'6".....5'3"? Don't worry, we're all the same size from the waist up. Read that somewhere. I really like my new Edge(I'm only 6'2"). Fits well, looks cool and has enough buttons and doo-dads to play with on a 6 hour cruise!. Good luck, Bob
 
Cool. I was going to ask what color, but I guess we'll see when you post pictures.
 
One of the most reliable, durable cars we ever owned was a '91 Mitsu Galant. We drove it for 120k miles with no real issues, and the factory Yokohama tires were replaced with close to 75k miles and still legal.



I'm a fan of Mitsu.
 
Do it's not gonna work out on this vehicle right now. We talked, agreed and signed for a payment between $450-480. They found out how much I made and tried jacking the payments up to $542, not gonna happen. I could feasibly do that but it's way to high for what I'm getting. (Last summer I looked at and was quoted $580 for a new Ford Raptor quad cab, I'd rather get that for a little more). The search continues.
 
How can they do that? Doesn't make sense. You agree on a price, and then finance it however you want to.



I always separate my financing from the purchase deal. I go to the dealer with an approved site draft in my pocket. If the dealer can match or beat the financing deal i already have, then he can do the financing. Otherwise I do my own financing.
 
The salesman kept calling Carol and I all day, finally said he could do $511 a month. I told him I didn't wanna go that high, especially for a compact SUV. I'm expecting to hear from him tomorrow saying he can magically go lower. If he wants to sale the car he might want to. I'm waiting him out because he made the mistake of telling me he was paid by salary, not commission so he needs to sell more cars to get his bonus. I went out and checked out the Kia's, Ford's, Chevy's, GMC's tonight but not really impressed, especially for the prices. I'm going out to check out Dodge's, Toyota's and Jeep's tomorrow.
 
Im with Gavin. When I used to finance. I had my own set up. I knew what I could pay monthly. Then I talked nonthing but price. If they couldnt' bring it into my range, to fit. My ready to go finance aprooval. I walked away. I dont like dealers working out my payments or knowing what I make. Even with my high credit score. No dealer could ever beat my own financing. All that was 0ver 20yrs ago. Since then I have paid cash.



90% of the time the salesman called me back. Putting the driveout price, in the range I wanted. Same as when I bought my trac. Agreed on my price. Then I pulled a switch on them. Changed color and got the 6 disc audio and bed extender for the same price.



Be sure to look at Edmunds TMV for your zip. Before you buy. shoot for less than that. My success with that has been at the end of the month or the quarter.

Sorry if Im telling you what you already know. Just I hate the buying proccess, so much. It doesnt' take much to make me walk away.



There was a time in my area. Drive out price was about 20% to 25% less than sticker. I think that gap has changed. Since I bought my trac. My Drive out for it was about 31% under sticker.
 
One of the biggest mistakes car buyers make is fixating too much on the maximum monthly payment, and even worse, communicating to the dealer/finance firm what that maximum monthly payment is.



Sure, we all need to budget, and yes, we all need to know what that maximum monthly payment is, but it should be a "check" near the end of the car paying process, not a goal.



So what should you do?



1. Go to Edmunds.com or similar and find out what is a likely, rock-bottom price for the car you want to buy (at or around dealer invoice, or lower).



2. Secure your own financing for that amount, going to eLoans.com, Costco (if a member), your credit union, etc. Pick the right loan for you; 3 years, 5, etc.



3. If trading in, figure out the best you should likely be offered by the dealer on a trade, or if you want to go that route, be prepared to sell it yourself to a third-party for more, but only do that if you are willing to sell first, get cash in hand, wait a week or two for buyer remorse, and THEN buy your new car.



4. Take all of the above and when you have a car you want, phone the dealer and make an offer. If trading, tell them what you need in trade, tell them what you need for a price in the car, tell them if they want to finance what they need to beat as rates. If they offer rebates vs better finance deals, do the math and see which puts more money in your pocket at the end of the term.



Now, if you do all of the above (or even steps 1, 2, 3), you will know what the monthly payment will be. If the numbers don't work (you are at our below your monthly payment) when doing steps 1, 2 and 3, then they almost certainly won't work when the dealer makes you an offer.



TJR
 

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