Chad Merry
Well-Known Member
Anyone know of a high output alternator for the Gen 1? When I install the electric fan I want to add a little extra power since they pull alot of power. The power load will likely affect my amps, etc.
H/O Alternator
- Thread starter Chad Merry
- Start date
Help Support Ford SportTrac Forum:
EddieS'04
In Memoriam 1950-2022
I think the one for the up to '01 explorer suv is. Also is a direct fit. If not enough power you may have to find a special rebuilfder...
Jacob Dryer
Well-Known Member
Do you already have the 160? I think that is the one that Eddie is talking about.. otherwise start searching for custom car audio. The one that I've heard a lot about is Iraggi Alternator but they don't have a website. Just a facebook page and a lot of forum talk.
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- What engine do you have?
- V8 engine
- What year is your Sport Trac?
- 2010
- What Generation is your Sport Trac?
- 2n Gen Owner
Can allways install an OD pulley too....
Todd Z
Todd Z
Fudged Undies
Well-Known Member
A few optons:
<a href='http://www.mralternator.com/alternators/ford.html'>Mr. Alternator <b>(used to be popular on the ranger boards)</b></a>
<a href='http://www.mechman.com/'>mechman.com</a>
<a href='http://ferrispowerproducts.com/alternators.html'>Ferris</a>
<a href='http://www.google.com/search?q=alternator+h%2Fo&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1'>Google Search</a>
<a href='http://www.mralternator.com/alternators/ford.html'>Mr. Alternator <b>(used to be popular on the ranger boards)</b></a>
<a href='http://www.mechman.com/'>mechman.com</a>
<a href='http://ferrispowerproducts.com/alternators.html'>Ferris</a>
<a href='http://www.google.com/search?q=alternator+h%2Fo&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1'>Google Search</a>
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Andy Cabrera
Active Member
Here's the 250 amp model,
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/p-5114-ford-explorer-250-amp-high-output-alternator-40l-01-02-03-7787.aspx
They also carry 160, 200, 220 amp
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/p-5114-ford-explorer-250-amp-high-output-alternator-40l-01-02-03-7787.aspx
They also carry 160, 200, 220 amp
Last edited by a moderator:
Gary Hart
Active Member
So have many amps output does a (presumably Gen1) v6 2003 SportTrac alternator put out anyway.
I think I read somewhere 130 Amps. It this correct?
I think I read somewhere 130 Amps. It this correct?
scott degroot
Well-Known Member
The alternator is rated at 130 amps and unless you have a ton of added electricial accessories that you use simultaneously it is more than enough. Adding a electric cooling fan will not hurt anything. When the fan kicks on it will pull about 30 amps for a few milliseconds and then settle down to probably somewhere around 12-15 amps and maybe lower if you go with a dual speed setup. In stock form even if you had a weak battery and turned on every accessory the alternator probably wouldn't reach 130 amps.
JMO
JMO
Gary Hart
Active Member
Help me out here... I'm having a problem where after a certain amount of music playback... (shorter for some songs, longer for others it seems) my amp that does the highs-and-mids (4 ch) has the output "dim" or fade down. I tried 2 different 4-ch amps thinking the first one might have been bad. 2nd one did same thing... maybe took a little longer before it occured.
I have a stock alternator.
I have upgraded Monster 300-Series Battery Terminals.
I upgraded Positive Alternator to Postive Battery with an additional 4-gauge wire.
I upgraded Battery Ground with an additional 4-gauge wire.
My starter battery is a very new Duralast (Yellow colored top) I think it's supposed to be rated 950Amp.
I've got 4-gauge wire running from Battery Positive to the behind the rear seats... connecting to an extra battery - a kinetik hc600. Then to a Monster Distribution block where I split the power wire into two 4-gauge wires connecting to both amps.
4ch amp Ground is connected directly to the Kinetik Battery Ground terminal... which is grouned via 4-guage to a nice large bolt that holds-down the rear-seat. The Mono amp has it's ground going directly to this same ground point.
My system isn't ginormously powered... Subwoofer amplifer that has 600W RMS output. + 4 channel Amp for the doors that's supposed to do 75 W RMS x 4 (300 W RMS total).
That's 900 W RMS.
Now if I understand everything I've been studying and reading lately.
Amps x Volts = Watts ...so... if I work backward and do 900 W / 14.4 V = 62.5 Amps
130 Amps from Alternator - 62.5 Amps = 67.5 Amps devoted to everything else.
Hmmm.... As I do this calculation I'm starting to think a High-output alternator may be my only solution. I believe I read that our cars need/use like 80 Amps and the rest can be used for accessories.
Long story shorter, I'm trying to solve this problem of output dimming/fading on the 4-ch amp when I really try to bump my system at high-levels.
Would performing last of the Big 3 Upgrade... engine block grounded to frame solve my issue?
Would replacing my starter battery with a Kintek HC1400 or HC1800 solve the problem?
What about a Battery Isolator? Kinetik's documentation doesn't mention anything about one. They recommend parralel connections with the starter battery.
What about if I ran bigger speaker-wire all the way into the doors and to the speakers in the doors, thoroughly replacing the existing speaker wire for the doors with like a 14 gauge? Could needing thicker speaker wire for the door speaker cause this fading to occur?
How do places like AutoZone test your alternator? What specifically is it they test for?
I have a stock alternator.
I have upgraded Monster 300-Series Battery Terminals.
I upgraded Positive Alternator to Postive Battery with an additional 4-gauge wire.
I upgraded Battery Ground with an additional 4-gauge wire.
My starter battery is a very new Duralast (Yellow colored top) I think it's supposed to be rated 950Amp.
I've got 4-gauge wire running from Battery Positive to the behind the rear seats... connecting to an extra battery - a kinetik hc600. Then to a Monster Distribution block where I split the power wire into two 4-gauge wires connecting to both amps.
4ch amp Ground is connected directly to the Kinetik Battery Ground terminal... which is grouned via 4-guage to a nice large bolt that holds-down the rear-seat. The Mono amp has it's ground going directly to this same ground point.
My system isn't ginormously powered... Subwoofer amplifer that has 600W RMS output. + 4 channel Amp for the doors that's supposed to do 75 W RMS x 4 (300 W RMS total).
That's 900 W RMS.
Now if I understand everything I've been studying and reading lately.
Amps x Volts = Watts ...so... if I work backward and do 900 W / 14.4 V = 62.5 Amps
130 Amps from Alternator - 62.5 Amps = 67.5 Amps devoted to everything else.
Hmmm.... As I do this calculation I'm starting to think a High-output alternator may be my only solution. I believe I read that our cars need/use like 80 Amps and the rest can be used for accessories.
Long story shorter, I'm trying to solve this problem of output dimming/fading on the 4-ch amp when I really try to bump my system at high-levels.
Would performing last of the Big 3 Upgrade... engine block grounded to frame solve my issue?
Would replacing my starter battery with a Kintek HC1400 or HC1800 solve the problem?
What about a Battery Isolator? Kinetik's documentation doesn't mention anything about one. They recommend parralel connections with the starter battery.
What about if I ran bigger speaker-wire all the way into the doors and to the speakers in the doors, thoroughly replacing the existing speaker wire for the doors with like a 14 gauge? Could needing thicker speaker wire for the door speaker cause this fading to occur?
How do places like AutoZone test your alternator? What specifically is it they test for?
scott degroot
Well-Known Member
^^^
In your situation I would start by checking to see how many amps the alternator was putting out when you are having issues and also check and see how many amps your amps are drawing when the problem occurs. Also I think you need to do voltage drop tests on your power and ground circuits to verify their integrity. Do you have a capacitor for the sub amp?
Here is a good site for you to check out
In your situation I would start by checking to see how many amps the alternator was putting out when you are having issues and also check and see how many amps your amps are drawing when the problem occurs. Also I think you need to do voltage drop tests on your power and ground circuits to verify their integrity. Do you have a capacitor for the sub amp?
Here is a good site for you to check out
Gary Hart
Active Member
"when you're having issues" <-- A little tricky to test for this do since I can't just sit in the driveway and blast the snot outta the system for minutes at a time.
I'm in SoCal... there's this thing in all the 48 of the other states... I heard it's called "space". Well anyway... we don't have any of that here =P
== How do I test how many amps the amps are drawing? I'm assuming I use a multimeter but how exactly?
I'm in SoCal... there's this thing in all the 48 of the other states... I heard it's called "space". Well anyway... we don't have any of that here =P
== How do I test how many amps the amps are drawing? I'm assuming I use a multimeter but how exactly?
Gary Hart
Active Member
And no.... I'm no longer using a Capacitor since I decided to put-in the Kinetik HC600 2nd battery instead.
scott degroot
Well-Known Member
To test for amperage you are going to need an amp clamp to hook to your multimeter...they can be a bit expensive though
Gary Hart
Active Member
Hrmm... well... if ya happen to know of some neat links with nice explanations and pics. Paste'em in the post. If not... thanks for your time!
scott degroot
Well-Known Member
Your kidding right...look 4 posts above your last one
