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body mounts

Thread in 'Noise, Vibration, Harshness Issues' started by Larry Speed, Apr 27, 2015.

  1. Larry Speed

    Larry Speed Member

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    after reading the 'how to' information on this site, my 14 year old son and I decided we could tackle the deteriorated mounts. Used the prothane kit. only changed the b and c locations that were in the expected extremely bad shape.

    We took most of a day. Able to do it with just a breaker bar but an air wrench would have saved a lot of effort.

    Not something we would have done on our own without the excellent info available on this site.
     
  2. Gavin Allan

    Gavin Allan Well-Known Member 2nd Gen Owner V8 Engine

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    This site is EXCELLENT!!!



    Shameless Plug for the site: Every now and then hit the "donate" button above and send a few dollars of love toward the operation of the site. Although run by volunteers and receives some funding from sponsors, there are real costs for web hosting, etc. Nothing happens for free, and this site has saved all of us dollars, aggravation, and gotten us envy from other Trac owners and lusting from beautiful women who are impressed with our Tracs. (Yes, the ladies here also get appreciation too for their Tracs.)
     
  3. Dean Hedin

    Dean Hedin Active Member 1st Gen Owner V6 Engine

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    So - It is possible to change just the center two mounts without having to loosen the the one by the radiator and the one at the rear of the cab?



    I thought somebody mentioned that the ones in the front and back are rubber whereas the two in the middle are made of the foam stuff.







     
  4. swshawaii

    swshawaii Well-Known Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    Dean- Correct, the "A" firewall and "B" pillar mounts are made of MCU foam and always seem to deteriorate first. A few claimed to have replaced them without loosening the rubber radiator support and rear mount bolts. I needed to remove all the bolts on each side I was working on, while leaving the opposite side tight. My fear was the cab shifting sideways.

    1 1/2" to 2" of clearance is needed to remove the upper mounts due to the length of the metal sleeves. Also believe what you read, a propane torch and strong impact wrench make this job MUCH easier.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 28, 2015
  5. Larry Speed

    Larry Speed Member

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    We did have to remove the rear bolts. Had to use a V mouth vise grip cause Lowe's did not have a wide mouth.

    and just loosened one corner of the front. That gave use enough room to wiggle the mounts back in. They came out easy enough with the mounts missing but with a solid mount in we had to jack up the side an extra little bit. We did use the propane torch to make breaking the bolts free. The worst were the rear bolts through the access holes.

    The driver side front takes some maneuvering with the break line in place.
     
    Norman Kruesel likes this.
  6. EddieS'04

    EddieS'04 Well-Known Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    My "A" mounts are rubber and good. The B , C , D mounts were all shot......
     
  7. Todd Z

    Todd Z Well-Known Member 2nd Gen Owner V6 Engine V8 Engine

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    The ONLY thing I have to say here is WHY go through that work and not change them all??????



    Just leads for a bad ride, and the other bushings will only fail soon......



    Todd Z
     

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