Body Mount Installation Oregon/Washington

[Steve Wolfe 3]

I was informed by my Ford dealer that my body mounts are deteriorated, I agree after inspection. I bought the Prothane kit, but now they are calling me telling me that they have to cut the bolts off and need to purchase body mount insulator as the nut is part of the insulator. Since these cost like $230 a pop, I don't want to go that route. I know enough from all you good members to know that is not what needs to be done.



Has anyone already found a body shop that can replace the OEM body mounts with Prothane mounts in the Portland, OR or Vancouver, WA area? I'd even go further to get it done by someone who knows what they are doing.



Thanks, Steve

 

[swshawaii]

Instructions for the Prothane 6116 kit says in the first note the shells and hardware will need to be reused. Daystar KF04015 is the same with no hardware included.

 

[swshawaii]

Here's a new option from Dorman that includes shells and hardware. Each kit includes upper and lower and they are made of rubber. Still pricey, although not

stupid expensive like the stock orange colored MCU foam mounts under A and B pillars directly under the cab. If interested, check Amazon or RockAuto for pricing.

 

[Dean Hedin]

The shop may think they have to cut the bolts.



But if they do not heat them with a propane torch for 30-45 seconds to loosen the Ford thread lock then they will never get them bolts loose.



I just did this job myself a few weeks ago. I had one bolt in the back that I heated up, and I was taking my time with the ratchet. It froze up again and I thought I would have to cut the bolt. Heated it again with the torch and it loosen up.



So if you have not yet done so..tell the shop to heat'em up from below...

 

[Todd Z]

I believe the Prothane kit you can use regular grade 10 Nuts, bolts and washers.



The daystar kit you can not.



Find an off road shop, let them do the work.... Forget the dealer





Todd Z

 

[Dean Hedin]

One thing I should mention. Most likely folks will have to replace the front "A Position" bolts when they do this job. There is an area where water can collect on the front bolts and they tend to get waisted in the middle of the threads.



I was able to find suitable 12mm bolts that were fully threaded and of sufficient length at a local Sears Hardware. These were not grade 8 but they appear to be holding up fine. I think I was lucky to find metric bolts this big locally. Others may find they have to mail order them.



But I would be surprised if the bolts at the other positions could not be re-used.



Kick myself for not measuring all the bolts lengths while doing this job as it would have benefited others.

 

[John Zuber]

I did a big write-up on replacing the body mounts. My wife and I did this during an afternoon. Reused all the hardware.

 

[Steve Wolfe 3]

Thanks for the comments. I admire those of you who did it yourself, I pride myself on doing most work myself. However I didn't want to do this job myself even with the great info members provided. Just don't have the equipment or confidence for this job. I did find a place to do it. Eric's Frame in Ridgefield, WA got it done for me, charged $450 which seems reasonable.

 

[Ed Fenwick]

When mine were done there was one in front that was rusted. Ford sold it for $8. I think.