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Thread in 'Reliability' started by Artie, Jun 14, 2020.
Which of the two engines have proven more reliable in terms of repair costs and long term ownership?
Serviced and taken care of. Could be a toss up.
The V8 has a good track record.
The v8 is a little better but will require high mileage repairs. the 4.0 may need chains or not..... All depends on how you treat it.
So... If deciding between two vehicles with the same attributes except for engine/transmission.. Both having strong maintenance records, low miles, equal accessories and age... But one has a 4.0 and the other a 4.6 3v.. It may be a toss up with a possibly slight advantage in favor of the 4.6/6R80 combo?
Todd, what high mileage repairs are you referring to (4.6)?
Timing chains, VCT repairs, Possible cam followers. Exhaust manifold studs and manifolds.
I've see a few remarks on intake and exhaust mani bolt issues and I was wondering about variable timing endurance. A bit surprised about timing chains tho.. At least they're all in front.
the 4.6 and 5.4 will all need high mileage chain work, but like you said, its an in the vehicle repair.
Thanks, that's what I thought.
I've had both.
I would only spend my money on a 4.6 V8.
I decided on a 4.0 instead of 4.6. The dollars and trouble involved in the exhaust manifold stud problem is too frequent, too costly, too much worry for me to deal with at my age.
Actually, I purchased a ST today, 2009, 84,000 miles, V6 XLT. Southern owned, no rust. Excellent single tone, cloth interior with excellent exterior paint. I prefer cloth over leather because all ST 10-11 year old leather front seats I saw online and in person did not age well.
Lacks the tonneau cover...Darn!
Exterior black trim has normal oxidation - needs some help which I can do. Has new front hub assemblies. Don't know what the issue with bad ST hub bearings are... Closest thing to an answer I've found on the internet is they are "compact" maybe too much so? Maybe incorrect preload, maybe races not swapped when bearing was changed, I dunno except for...There are way too many "bad hub bearing" reportings online to not be an issue. And I am one that takes every report with a large dose of salt.
Drove for an hour prior to purhase, haggled in a selling price, pick it up in two days (return 100 mile drive). I'm surprised I was able to negotiate as much as I was. Used car sales are strong now with Uncle Sam propping sales with treasury checks, unemployment, and decreased manufacturer auto production due to Covid19.
Cool, glad you found something... good luck with it.... FIRST thing is swap the radiator cap to a 16PSI cap from the 98 mustang v6..... the factory 21 is WAY to high.....
Thanks, I read that researching in the forum. Will do, thanks.
Use a full synthetic oil and don't go longer than 5000 miles and the timing chains should be okay. Best thing for the trim is to paint it with Krylon Fusion satin black, mine has been holding up well for four years. I have an Extang Tuff Tonneau that I like real well, it's snapless, I use a fiberglass full cap in the winter. DO change ALL the fluids and filters if you don't know when they were last done. Oil, coolant, brake, power steering, transmission, rear axle, and if 4wd the transfer case and front axle. Air filter if it looks dirty and the fuel filter if you don't know when or if it was changed.
Excellent advise Johhny, thanks. I went to full synthetic in my 4.0 Ranger, plan to do the same with the ST.
Reading up on trans drain and refill. I will miss the trans fill tube/dip stick my Ranger had. I could run a small hose down the fill tube and suck the drain pan dry, 3 1/2 qts, once a year. Didn't have to crawl under truck unless changing trans filter too.. I have a supply of Mercon V o/h from the Ranger, ready to go in.
Waiting for the Ford shop/service manuals to arrive, I went ahead and got volume 1,2 & electrical.
yes, its all done from under the truck, also need a pump and special fitting to re fill.....
Todd, is the torx plug 1/4 NPT? I was thinking of using a male threaded/nipple coupler for a hose connector.. Thread it in, connect hose, and pump.. Or does the fill adapter require a loose fit to allow venting while the fluid is pumped in?
Also, do you have a recommendation for an economical pump that is user friendly (fairly easy to manipulate from under the ST)? It would be very nice to use a translucent 1 gallon jug, sit beside the vehicle, and monitor how much Mercon V is being transferred to the transmission. Sure would help out my back.
Yes its a standard thread, so you can make an adaptor....
I use the Amsoil hand pump, screws right on the bottle..... most people use the harbor freight hand pump.
Thanks Todd. I use the HF hand pump on my Ranger but I think the pump that screws on to a 1 gallon jug would be easier if squatting beside the ST.