02 ST rear differental leaking

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Brad Carroll

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Noticed a small pool (quarter sized) of black lube under the rear u-joint - then noticed it was coming from the front of the unit. Big deal to fix?? I need to change the fluid anyway as I rolled 140,000 miles...

thanks



Brad
 
Remove the drive shaft, if you have an impact gun it will be easier, if not, you will need a QUALITY ratchet due to the stress you will be putting on it. Better yet, use a breaker bar and extend it with a pipe you can slip over it. I use a 1 inch drive ratchet to break the nut free.



Once broken free, it comes off easy. Then tap the yoke out using either a brass hammer of something to that effect. There is a crush sleeve, officially you should replace it every time you remove the yoke. Most do not, if you do not, simply remove the seal, tap the new seal in, then tighten the nut down to the specific torque listed for the nut.



I do not know the torque off hand.



So no it is not a hard job in what is required to get it done, it is a hard job to break the yoke nut free.



BLOCK YOUR WHEELS AND SET THE EMERGENCY BRAKE...
 
Not if you torque the nut to OEM specs. I will; be right where it belongs.



That said, this is why I mentioned about the crush sleeve. The problems is, most people are not "man" enough to crush the sleeve with home tools.



So at the shop, using an impact gun, crushing the sleeve is not to hard, but at home, it is hard to impossible...
 
CJ, I have heard some say count the rounds of the pinion nut. Then count the same rounds going back on. Then torque it to spec.

What do you know about that?
 
Eddie....



What is better then that (IF you had to) is use an inch lb torque wrench, with the brakes removed (obviously tires too) turn the pinion nut with it several times and record the turning torque in inch lbs...



Then do the work and re tighten the nut and tighten the nut till it hits the same turning torque..



IF not there is a NEW and USED crush sleeve torque, Just use that !!!



Todd Z
 

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