When replacing the Springs to lower the STA...

Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
shop deals on amazon
Ford SportTrac Forum

Help Support Ford SportTrac Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have no idea but they should be a direct "plug and play" replacement with no other modification needed.



I've done some research on this and they will settle a lot because they are a smaller drop. The general concensus on the Lightning forums and Mustang forums is that small drops settle more than the big drops. People say that you should wait a couple weeks and then measure again.



I'm still waiting to hear back from my spring company regarding the prototype initial results.



Hopefully BobC, SuperchargedSVT, Iceman or someone will respond.



My fully OEM setup is 34" front and rear with 28-30 PSI in all four tires (yes I know I have to pump them up for the winter!)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hello Henry. Well, you shouldn't have to cut anything. If you're referring to the "bump stops" that live on the shaft of the strut, under the dust boot/cover, No cutting required. Your springs will probably never compress enough to even get near them. Maybe if you went off-road and were jumping over stuff! Nope, put the springs in, get a real good alignment done and you're all set. Good luck, Bob
 
Bob,



What we have encountered is; while the spring is an exact replica of an OEM in all ways including spring rate, it's not dropping the truck, at all. The spring itself is 1.5" shorter than stock but the net drop is 0".



I'm thinking it needs to settle but Henry and I were hoping for a more immediate result.



So a recap:

1.5" shorter than OEM, same spring rate, identical in every way to an OEM spring but no net drop after install.

 
In the drive way - Mine Sits with the same air pressure and fender to groud is 31.5 front and 33.6 rear - with 1/2 tank of fuel and zero cargo - hope this helps - hope it settles soon
 
Aaron,



You got a 1.5" that settled to 1.7"'or did you get a 2.0" that settled to 1.7"?



Did you remove any bump stops or cut anything else?
 
No stops removed or cut - Special Valved Bilstiens that cost as much as the springs from Andy and he said they were 1.7 - Compared to Bob's mine dropped a touch more than 2.0 - We installed some Camber Bolts to get the alignment wrapped up but other than that - exactly what I wanted except the Tall $$$
 
We are having issues because we are building these from nothing. Its the price you pay to give others a chance at making the most of the mod with the least out of their wallet.



 
I think most everyone has a decent alignment shop near them. I would suggest having a pro install the springs unless you're as patient and mechanically inclined as CopST.



Taking a prototype and doing a spring install in your driveway by yourself.... My hat is off to you sir.
 
If you have access to a spring press then it is very easy - If you can take the assembly off and take the fronts to a shop where they can put them on for you it would be easy as well. They only go on one way and the collar has to fit before it will work. The backs are pretty easy and can be done without a press.
 
Finished installing all springs yesterday and then I went to the Autoshow (hate not to see a Sporttrac at the Ford area). She drove fine. Still no drop but I will keep everyone posted. Installation is harder in the front than the rear, you just have to use the trucks weight to your advantage. You definetly need a good set of spring compressors, impact wrench, jack w/ stands, and good ole fashion arm strength. Takes about 2 uniterrupted hours per axle.
 
Still no drop but I will keep everyone posted.
Click to expand...



That is not right. Myself and freinds, have installed alot of sport lowering coil springs. Including strut and modified strut.

I always got an imediate drop. Then after 1 to 2 hundred miles. I might get aproxamitly 1/4" in settling. Spring rates must be too stiff.

Are these specific or progressive rate?
 
These are oem replica made 1.5" shorter than stock. Same spring rate. Tested under a compression tested and have the same feedback force as OEM.



I don't know what's wrong and I'm stumped. I've heard nothing from my supplier as to a possible solution.



in fact, after posting this I called him again and left another message.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Here is a pic from CopST. You can clearly see the springs are shorter. So I'm worried that they are not seated properly (Not very safe) or that something was messed up in engineering them off the 2010 Adrenalin springs I sent the company.



Is it possible that the 2010 AWD springs have a higher spring rate than a RWD or something like that?

[Broken External Image]:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Maybe he didnt put the end coil in its groove...

Or if they made them specific rate. They are not compressing, like progressive rate will.

I made the mistake and ordered specific rate for my '94 stang. I got the drop, but man they were stiff.
 
Yes they were. So they had the Ford spring engineering data, the data from your part numbers (and mine) and they had SuperCharged SVT's actual springs physically sent to them to model from.



I went the extra mile to help avoid any mistakes. This is why I find it unlikely that the spring rate is different.



They modified the OEM springs and then made another set to match. They tested them and as far as they are concerned...the springs are the same as modified OEM.



So I have no idea why CopST isn't getting 1.5" of drop.
 

Latest posts

Top