Wheel Bearing Question

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Marsha Walker

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Anybody know why there is such a cost difference in wheel bearings? I looked them up on Rockauto and they vary but are around 20 bucks and I call the local parts house and they want $150. If my wheel bearing is shot, do I have to replace the whole hub assembly or can I just replace the bearing itself? Thought? Thanks
 
We like to think the price difference is quality, but this isn't always the case. That $20 bearing is probably for the 2WD.



If the bearing is shot, the assembly ("hub bearing" or "unit bearing") has to be replaced.



Many use Timkin (they've been making bearings since the earth's crust was cooling, or 1899).
 
Marsha, Midas here in Des Moines replaced one hub on my '01 4WD in March, and recently told me the other one needs replaced soon. I don't think that's the case, especially since they said it was ok when they did the other one 1300 miles ago when they had the green light to fix what's needed. Anyway, I plan to change it myself if it needs done. I have the hub assembly options from O'Reilly's printed out right here beside me, and they have a MasterPro brand hub assembly for $109.99, and a Precision brand assembly for $149.99. I think there's a difference in the length of the warranty, which is part of the price spread.



I think Yardsale is correct that the $20 bearing is for 2 wheel drive. Everything I've read says the 4WD hub/bearing is sealed and has to be changed as an assembly.
 
Marsha,

Since you have a 4x4, the wheel bearings are not serviceable (ie: repacking the wheel bearings) They are sealed units that can only be replaced. The other problem you have is that the bearings are pressed into the hub and require special equipment to removed the old wheel bearing assembly and press in the new assembly. This requires the removal of the steering knuckle/hub to put it into an arbor or bearing press



The difference in price is probably due to the fact that the bearing assembly is already pressed into the hub the new steering knuckle, which saves you labor in the long run.



Even if you are going to do this job yourself, it will still require the complete removal of the steering knuckle assembly, and the use of a hydraulic press to remove and replace the new wheel bearings. If you don't have a press, you must take the steering knuckle assembly to a shop and they will charge you tor press out the old bearing and install the new one.



If you buy the whole hub and steering knuckle assembly you can bypass the step of removing the wheel bearing hub from the steering knuckle.



If you want to get an idea of which unit to buy, get a quote for a shop to press out the old wheel bearing hub and pressing in the new one, vs just buying the new wheel bearings already pressed into new steeering knuckles.



...Rich

 
I just changed one of my hubs and belive the reason it is an assembly is so the ABS is lined up to work properly on the hub. Just another reason to drive the price higher. :banana:
 
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I think that is not the case. The 2WD has an ABS sensor without the hub bearing. I believe Ford used these bearing because of the 4WD. The design itself is more expensive.



WRT the need for bearing press, etc ...
 
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Marsha, FYI: my son has had to replace both sides on his '05 ST XLT 4x4 and the right side twice @ $375 each time @ our local repair shop. @ between 95-97k miles for the 1st replacements, then @ 179k miles replacing the right side again.



 
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All,

If i'm replacing control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks etc. is this the time to do the wheel bearing or is it easy enough to get to later? Just trying to manage the money!
 
So Rich, by the looks of the project that Yardsale posted, it appears to be an unbolt and replace kind of issue. Do I still have to do the steering knuckle stuff and have the bearing pressed etc.???
 
Easy? This depends on level of experience.



The project, linked to above, describes the process well.



Is it more convenient to do while the other work is in progress? A bit (experience dependent).



If you are trying to manage the money, it's not a big job in itself.
 
There is no bearing press in that project; no bearing press needed. It is a sealed unit that bolts into the knuckle.



FYI - the Gen1 2WD has bearing races that are pressed into the hub, but these can usually be removed and replaced with a punch and hammer.
 
I haven't done this job, but I looked into it when Midas said one of mine needs changed. (I think that wheel was unevenly tightened & they may have confused that with a bad bearing.) It's an "unbolt and replace" project. One of the bolts is kind of hidden, so it might be a little bit easier to get to when doing the other work, but it won't matter much one way or the other.
 
Marsha,

Yardsale is probably right in that, the wheel bearings may not require a press, but many FWD and 4X4 use pressed in front wheel bearings. However, there is really no reason for auto parts stores to sell FWD wheel bearings mount with the steering knuckle??? I assumed that when they sell the wheel bearings and steering knuckle as a single assembly, it's because the sealed wheel bearing hub is pressed into the steering knuckle?



As for replacing the ball joints etc, when the wheel bearings are being replaced: Yes, that would be easier if you have to remove the steering knuckle and press out the bearings. If not, then wait until you have symptoms of ball joint problems.



...Rich
 
Oh Rich I have serious ball joint issues! I am trying to do everything if we are there in the first place but its starting to get out of hand...... I don't want to put in new ball joints and then turn around and have to do the control arms so I am trying to do it all at the same time. I really want to keep the trac but I am starting to second guess my decision...
 
I think he meant wheel bearings, (but both would apply). And I would not change them either unless there is an indication they are bad. It's a repair, not maintenance item.



I went with Timkin, so don't have the Ford OEM part number. Ford OEM part price is about $230.00 (each).
 
I have a 2001 4 X 4 ST. I have replaced the wheel bearings, both sides about three times (200K miles on the ST). The bearings run about $100 to $150. Depends on quality and retailer. To replace bearings (this is a sealed unit) takes about an hour.

The upper ball joints (replaced mine twice) are fairly straight forward. The lower ball joints require the torsion bars to be "released", ie remove the torsion so the bars can be removed and then the ball joints can be swapped out. The ball joints are pressed in and sometimes it is cheaper and easier to buy the entire control arm. Still a nasty job.

The bearing unit can be replaced W/O messing with the ball joints. The ball joints can be swapped out W/O messing with the bearing unit.

Good Luck. My local garage quoted $1,000 for the ball joints.

I did it myself, but a tough job.

Dennis

 

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