What is a good brand coil pack?

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hal keiner

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My 2002 Sport Trac has 120K miles on it and I just replaced the spark plugs and wires to deal with a 'stumbling upon accelleration' problem. I followed the recommendations on this forum to use Motorcraft SP500 plugs and Taylor 8mm Spiro Pro wires and the engine runs much better now. Great forum to get great advice.



I am thinking that the engine might benefit from a new coil pack too. Any suggestions on a good OEM level brand/model of coil pack for my Sport Trac? Any brands to avoid?
 
From what I've read here, the majority prefers the stock coil, and it's adequate.

Some have used the "performance" coils with a negligible gain, and a few failures.

BTW, excellent choices with the plugs and wires, exact combination I'm using. :supercool:
 
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Unless you're seeing a CEL code indicating a problem with the coil pack, I don't think there's really any reason to spend the money to replace it. If it needs replacing, stick with an OEM coil pack. I've had two Performance Distributors Screamin' Demon coil packs go bad on me.



Your engine, and Sport Trac overall will benefit much more from a SCT X3 and custom tunes from our site sponsor, Torrie at Fast Parts Network.:banana::driving:
 
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No reason to arbritrarly replace the coil. If you suspect there is some stumbling still. Most generaly the coil either works or not. You will get a code of missfire, eventualy. If there is a bad coil. If there is no code. Not the coil.

One thing I have seen in theses types of coil packs is. Check where each wire plugs in. OEM coils have aluminum contacts. There could be some corosion in there from age. A dremel tool with a small brush will clean the contacts.

Also unplug the coil when doing this. Also unpluging and repluging the coil from the harness can help wipe the pins. I have found thru the years. Despite the plugs on ecu control engines are water tight. I have solved some problems. By unpluging and repluging sensors and components.

On most sensors and components. It is very low voltage signals (5vdc). A small amount of corrosion. Can cause a change in current or voltage. Due to the resistance caused by the corosion.



After making these checks. If you are still stumbling. Look for small vacuum leaks or a fuel issue.
 
I "upgraded" to an Accel coil pack and Taylor wires when I changed plugs at 60k miles, now 106k. There wasn't a noticeable performance difference from OEM. But I like the cosmetic appearance, red wires with a red truck. I think the Accel price was comparable to OEM at the time and I've had no issues with it. :driving:
 
Paul, I think Rodger T is useing Accel on his also. I have known others using Accel DIS coils on other motors. With no problems.



Before my SD coil bit the dust. All I really noticed was a smoother idle.

IMO, good plugs and good spiral core wires are as good as it gets. On stock motors.
 
No reason to arbritrarly replace the coil. If you suspect there is some stumbling still. Most generaly the coil either works or not. You will get a code of missfire, eventualy. If there is a bad coil. If there is no code. Not the coil.
Click to expand...



I am not one to throw parts at a problem instead of diagnosing the problem first, but I don't have the skill or equipment to test spark plugs, wires, or coils to see if they are defective. Plus for the effort to remove these parts, I am thinking I might as well replace them with a new part. Also, after 120K miles replacing the coil might qualify for routine maintenance.



The fuller story is that I was getting a periodic/random P0303 (misfire on cylinder 3) code and stumble upon accelleration for many months. I replaced the plugs and wires and the P0303 stopped and the stumble almost went away, but not entirely. I have cleaned the PCV, MAF, and IAC and also checked that the famous 'elbow' was not leaking air. The coil pack is one of the last few ignition items to address. Since testing is not feasable I thought swapping out this part would be an easy and cheap thing to do to eliminate it as a possible problem. My thoughts anyway.



However, if a coil pack can only either work fine or not work at all (rather than cause minor misfires, stumble, poor performance, etc.) then it is not worth replacing to see if it makes any difference. Have I got this right?
 
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Hal, check for corosion first. I have had corosion inside of ditributer caps and DIS coils. Cause problems. Especialy aluminum contacts. I have had it on copper also, not so much though.

Not saying this is it. It is not common. It has happened though. But if it is, might save $$.
 
I have cleaned the PCV, MAF, and IAC and also checked that the famous 'elbow' was not leaking air.
Click to expand...



Don't know if you overlooked throttle body cleaning, very important.
 
Have you looked into Mallory or MSD multi-spark ignitions? Basically, its an adjustable box that can control rev limits, spark advance as well as single or multi spark. Just a thought, if you're going to replace the coil for routine "maintenance", might be worth looking into. JMO, Bob
 
If I do replace the coil pack, it will be with another OEM (or OEM equivilent) one, not a fancy performance one or other upgrade. I found that there are several brands out there and thought I would ask for a recommendation. I previously got great advice on the Motorcraft spark plugs and Taylor wires before on this forum. I would not have gotten these plugs and wires if not for that great advice.



For the coil pack, tollowing are the brands I have found so far and was wondering which ones to consider and which ones to avoid. I did see Accel mentioned in a previous post as a good choice.

- Replacement

- Standard

- Autotrust

- Accel

- Motorcraft
 


Don't know if you overlooked throttle body cleaning, very important.
Click to expand...



No reason to arbritrarly replace the coil. If you suspect there is some stumbling still. Most generaly the coil either works or not. You will get a code of missfire, eventualy. If there is a bad coil. If there is no code. Not the coil.

One thing I have seen in theses types of coil packs is. Check where each wire plugs in. OEM coils have aluminum contacts. There could be some corosion in there from age. A dremel tool with a small brush will clean the contacts.

Also unplug the coil when doing this. Also unpluging and repluging the coil from the harness can help wipe the pins. I have found thru the years. Despite the plugs on ecu control engines are water tight. I have solved some problems. By unpluging and repluging sensors and components.

On most sensors and components. It is very low voltage signals (5vdc). A small amount of corrosion. Can cause a change in current or voltage. Due to the resistance caused by the corosion.
Click to expand...



Great advice!! I am going to try all the things you suggest and see what happens.
 
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Don't over tighten the bolts when reinstalling the TB, very easy to strip the plastic threads.

It can be cleaned without removal, just find a way to keep the butterfly open and use Q-Tips. GL





 
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Don't over tighten the bolts when reinstalling the TB, very easy to strip the plastic threads.

It can be cleaned without removal, just find a way to keep the butterfly open and use Q-Tips. GL
Click to expand...



More great advice. Thanks.
 

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