Steering Linkage/Ball Joints/Hub Question

[Greg Jorczyk]

Back at 80,000 miles I purchased a 3 year alignment plan with NTB. At 100,000 miles I took it in for another alignment and they said it needed upper and lower ball joints for a total of $1100.00. At that time I decided to hold off and now at 105,000 miles I took it to a different NTB and they said all it needs is an right inner tie rod and on the left hub an inner and outer bearing and seal for a total of $500.00.



Is there a way I can check these parts myself if I put it up on jacks to see if they are worn out. Strange how two NTB's come up with different parts worn out.



Thanks Greg

2003 Trac 2x4

 

[Richard L]

On 2wd, the hub seals can be detected by them leaking grease, and easy to replace yourself. On a 4X4 the front hubs are sealed unit, but will generally make noise when they go bad...also the front wheel will have a excess play, like the wheel is a little loose.



The Inner and outer tie-rods can be checked by crawling under the front of the vehicle and having someone wiggle the steering wheel back an forth. A loose/worn tie rod will have noticable play where part of the steering is moving back an forth and the parts connected to the tie rod are not. You can also jack up the front end to get the wheels off the ground (use jack stands) and you can wiggle the tires back and forth and you will see where the tie rod wiggles but not the part where it's connected...you might even hear a small clunking sound if they are getting really bad. The inner tie-rods may be harder to see because of the rack & pinion steering they are covered by a rubber boot. You will have to pull the rubber boot out of the way, but if someone is wiggleing the steering wheel back and forth, you can often feel the looseness with your hand as the tie rod rocks back and forth you will feel a slight clunking at each change of direction.



The Tie rods are easy to replace with a tie-rod puller or a Pickle-fork (inexpensive tools) just count threads to remove the old ones, or measure the length of the old ones and thread the new ones on to the same length. Either way you will need to have the front end aligned before you can drive it very far.



...Rich

 

[Rodney Leary]

FYI- I just replaced my uppers and lowers both sides on my 01. Im a newb when it comes to car repair but with all the videos online, I easily accomplished it with the help of one friend.



All in all I spent about $250 in parts and had a $100 press rental (but that was refunded after returning the kit). I was quoted by local mechanic $750 for the job.



All parts are at Autozone or Advanced, I used Moog products.

 

[Richard L]

Greg,

Sorry, I missed your question about test your Ball Joints. The easiest way to test is to jack up the front end and get the tires off the ground. Grab the tire at the 12 O'clock and 6 o'clock position and try to rock the tire in and out at the top an bottom. If there is any noticable play you will be able to tell if it's loose on the top or bottom, which indicates the upper or lower ball joint is worn. This test usually works best for testing the upper ball joint.



A better test for the lower ball joints is to jack up the vehicle so the front tire is only about 1" above the ground (on hard pavement) Then then insert a long steel pry-bar under the tire and pry upwards. If the lower ball joints are worn this will show up as excessive up/down play in the wheel.



They also make some Ball Joints with wear indicators (not from the factory) that have a little spring loaded collar that retracts into the ball joint as it wears. When the collar is flush with the body, it's worn out and needs to be replaced...even if you don't feel much play in the above test. I don't know if they even make these ball joints with the wear indicators anymore, but it was an interesting concept. :grin:



...Rich