Square Feet of Dynamat ??

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Rahul Sharma

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I read that How-To on Sound deadening the Trac. It used 40 square feet for the 4 door of the trac. I also want to do the ceiling, floor and the back wall...anyone done this? Estimates on amuont of material required?



Thanks in advance. I am looking to go with B Quiet Ultimate.
 
I've heard that a particular type of rolled roofing material does the same job for much less money. Anyone else know?

Sorry to partially hijack the thread but it might be of concern to you as well.
 
i have read about this stuff a lot the last couple of days...depends on the temperatures where you live. if its too hot, it can melt all over the insode of your car, not to mention the smell it pretty bad on and warm day....as a general rule, its best to avoid it.
 
If I may suggest, Doing the floor will get you little results for the cost. Ceiling is really only going to deaden weather nosie, such as rain. If you are looking to do the doors the most effectively, use Dynamat extreme on the inside of the door skin, doing a double layer right behind the Speaker. Also, use a layer on the inside of the door panel itself to reduce the plastic vibrating in tune with the speaker.



I personally believe in Dynamt extreme. It does not smell, most rugged and effective in my opinion. I used 3 door packs to do my four doors.
 
i used dynamat on the whole back wall of the trac but i didnt cover every piece with it because that just isnt necessary a little piece deadens a big area, a surprising amout in my opinion. i just used one 15sqft pack and still had some left over, it did an amazing and even with big subs back there it wouldnt rattle. however all i wanted it for was to get rid of rattle the deadening of sound could be different, just my experience with it, its not quite less is more, but i little goes a long way if you use it right

 
http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=979730&REPLYCOUNT=13&sitename=mysporttrac&LAST=4/11/2007_6:31:05_PM



http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=968448&REPLYCOUNT=16&sitename=mysporttrac



http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=973787&REPLYCOUNT=7&sitename=mysporttrac



Overwhelmed with links, but in any case it covers my full sound deadening project. There is info on other brands with comparisons in the links and my actual db loss after doing the deadening.



Let me know if I can help in any way.
 
Ive tried pretty well all the sound deadening materials out there, and without doing any testing I would have to say the best I used was Dynamat Extreme



 
I am in the market for Extreme Dynamat as doing my 37 Ford street rod fire wall to improve A/C installation. Anyone know where to locate best price as this stuff is EXPENSIVE.





Thanks:D
 
Thanks all for your help!



JD - thanks for your links, i went over it all. So you used 80 sqft of deadening materials in total? looking at the project i thought it took 40 to do just the doors and was estimating another 60 to do the floor, headliner and back....i just don't want to order way too much or way too little, have the trac taken apart and then have to order more!



I had read on another audio foreum a project that a guy did on his car using b-quiet. it's $119/50sqft and he had used dynamat extreme in the past and was thrilled in using b-quiet. (it was called brown bread previously?)



Now that you have had it for awhile, do you find it quieter?



i want to get rid of both problems - rattles and deaden the sound. i just hate the road noise and rattles inside the trac. i have read somewhere that you can use foam as well to accomplish this?

 
the hardest part i think will be taking everything apart and then putting together.....i have applied dynamat extreme before (when i installed my speakers, i put some on each door around the opening) and it's not hard to apply...the biggest time consumer was dismantling and re-assembly...
 
I purchased 80 sq/ft to do all but the doors and had more than enough to do the floor in multiple layers along with 2 layers on the roof, and a single layer on the hood with a little left over.



The doors were approx another 40 sq/ft but I only did the outer skin not the inner.



Dynamat like any other name brand isn't necessarily better, they charge more and make a good product and have to pay for all the advertising. I honestly don't think this is one of the cases where you get what you pay for.



To sound deaden properly you actually need at least 2 parts. You have to mass load parts that can move to stop them from vibrating. You also need acoustical foam to prevent road noise and higher frequency from coming though.



If I were to do another vehicle or do my truck over again, I would do a single layer of second skin Damplifier, and a single layer of Luxury Liner and call it a day.



My results were good with what I did do, just not as good as I had hoped.



You will defiantly want a roller and a heat gun, both make application so much easier. Also make sure you have a good razor knife with lots of blades, cutting the material wears them fast.



The hardest part for me was the headliner, you can't fully remove it because it is put in through the windshield opening before it goes into the truck during assembly. So you have to carefully move it around the truck into positions so you can reach the roof to apply the deadener.

 
The headliner WILL come out of the truck with the windshield in place. You'll probably need to have the seats out, but you'll have them out anyway if you're deadening the floor. I can't remember if I took mine out the front passenger or rear passenger door, but I DID take it out.
 
I had my seats out, but I couldn't get it out without bending it.. Not sure if I was doing something wrong but I tried every way I could think to get it out.
 
It should come out through the back doors if you angle it correctly. It takes two people (did with mine).
 
You remove the passenger's side front seat. Then remove the A, B, and C pillar covers. Remove the rest of the attached stuff (Hooks, bezels, lights, etc.) Then drop the headliner on the passenger's side, and slide it out the back passenger's side door.
 
Older thread and debating this for my trac's front doors. Saw a project here and both door skins were done. Is this necessary? Dynamat just shows them using it on the outer skin in place of the plastic the factory uses. Thought/opinions?
 

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