Some of my lights don't work.

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Daniel Park 2

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Some parts of my odometer lights don't work and some of my steering wheel lights don't work. What could be the problem?



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Lights are burnt out. The ones behind the dash are 194s. The ones in the cruise control are a pain to replace. It's probably better to just replace the whole unit.(they come seperate left and right) I think they aren't expensive. I replaced all behind my instrument cluster (194's) with green. The needles aren't as bright but it makes the trip counter and odometer green also. Easy to replace those.;)
 
I have been wondering why they haven't started using LED's in place of incandecent bulbs. Less heat (feel your lighted whell buttons at night after they have been on for a while) and last longer than regular bulbs. Might it be because they cannot be dimmed?? Can they be dimmed??
 
A1, I think they can be, but I could be wrong since I didn't go with LED's. Maybe Big D or someone that has done the LED's could help you on that. I do plan on going LED but just haven't gotten the money around for it yet. (to much else I want to do yet):D;)
 
Go with Leds!!!... get them from ebay... 194 leds. choose a color. If you want to stay with green what you should do is when you get behind the gauges forst go get the speedo needles from a late 90's explorer (they are white needles) then install those when you install the LEDs (be sure to mark out where the original needles were so they go back in the same place). Its what I did but with blue (but I had to use 600 grit sandpaper and sand off the green film on the back so it would all light up blue).





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IIRC, 6 in the dash.



I used 6 of the #194 (5 LED) white bulbs from superbrightleds.com for behind the dash, and I think 3 more for the HVAC controls. I used 2 of the 6 LED white 194 bulbs for the rear license plate lamps.



I modified green #73/74 bulbs (cut base) and soldered them on to the Cruise Control circuit boards, and also used them in the headlight switch and 4x4 switch.



Yes, the LED dash lights all dim.



The only problem (and this is worse with OEM / incandescents) is the stupid twist in sockets in the instrument cluster either vibrate loose, or suffer from thermal expansion / contraction. When it's cool out, one or more of the the LED's may flicker until the car warms up. This is better than the standard incandescents which just don't light up at all.
 

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