Shocks

[Stacy Waldrep]

Changing the drivers side rear shock is a nightmare. This is such poor engineering on Ford's part. Some people say to drove the breather canister or whatever that is there but that's not really a possibility. I tried it and it doesn't drop. I removed the five bolts that hold that whole assembly in there only to find out that there are hoses and stuff running back and forth between each side over the spare tire carrier that won't let it drop down. I'm not about to start blindly unhooking vacuum hoses or whatever that stuff is to get all of that to drop down. I just had to take a break and complain. I can barely get the wrench on the nut closest to the rear and when I do, I only get to move it about a quarter turn until I have to start all over. My ratcheting wrench isn't angled so it won't fit and my regular ratchet and socket is too tall. Once I get this old shock out and new shock in, it's gonna be in there until it falls apart. :angry:

 

[Chris Smith 8]

Yes the rear shocks are a bitch to change out, but it's worth it. Dropping the fume canister thing is just about the only way. Don't worry about the hoses - just put them back. Treat yourself to a set of racheting open end wrenches. I wish I had had them when I changed mine, but I have them now! Good Luck! :supercool:

 

[Stacy Waldrep]

I have ratcheting wrenches but they don't have swivel heads. Mine are just flat and won't fit on one of the nuts on the drivers side rear shock. I saw pictures in another thread of somebody showing how to drop the fuel canister thing and mine doesn't look like that. Mine is one piece that goes from one side of the frame to the other across the spare tire carrier. There are several hose connecting both halves that go above the spare tire carrier. I can't even see where they go so I don't think I can really just start pulling things loose. I don't know. This sucks.

 

[Stacy Waldrep]

Finally done. I did it without removing the fuel canister thing. That last bolt was a major pain but finally got it. I'm glad that's done and hopefully won't have to do that again for a long time.

 

[Gavin Allan]

I didn't have much trouble, and I am not a mechanic.

 

[EddieS'04]

A 13mm flex ratchet wrench is you friend for Trac shocks.

 

[H D]

Body lift helps a lot, too. These threads pop up every time someone changes shocks.:bwahaha:



Glad you got it!

 

[swshawaii]

I'm glad that's done and hopefully won't have to do that again for a long time.

Anything but OEM shocks and you won't be. :grin:

 

[Tyler Fields]

I guess i didnt really have an issue with the rear shocks at all because I got to use a lift that wont help me with my plugs in the next few weeks tho

 

[Gavin Allan]

Use a box end wrench over the plug socket for the two on the rear passenger side for a Gen I. Gen II is pretty much a cakewalk too, unless you have the two-piece plugs. I didn't have any trouble with the plugs either on my Gen I. Got it all from above- did not remove the tire or the fender liner, etc.

 

[Travis Stevens]

A body lift kinda helps with this too

 

[EddieS'04]

I got to use a lift that wont help me with my plugs in the next few weeks tho

I think the plugs can be done from the bottom, with a auto lift.. If you let everything cool down. Not the wires though if you are changing them.



I have alot of specialty tools. one of my ratchets, has a double universal. I might try mine from ramps.

 

[marlon giese]

I was dealing with tire cupping so bought front shocks and said, oh well, rears should be easy so might as well change em too.



Well one of the Front ones broke the top mount on loosening and got both changed in about an hour and half.

Move on to the rears. What a mess. Almost said forgetaboutit:smack: but decided I had the shocks and how bad can it be. about 45 minutes later I got the passenger side done, then about 90 minutes later I got the drivers side done and it was a bear.



I recommend laying under the truck with feet toward front. Use a creeper or somethign else with an angled back support so it holds you up. you can reach your right arm up over the top from the right side and your left arm can reach up around the frame on the left side. flat wrench open/box will do it with about 3/8 turn if you use your left hand. Its a bear but it can be done. by the way, If yours are rusted, I would say no way but mine were not bad for rust



The ride is better now and glad I did it but this was not one of ford's better ideas!:banana:

 

[Stacy Waldrep]

mginwyo, I agree that the placement of the upper shock mounts wasn't one of Ford's better ideas. The passenger side rear wasn't too bad for me but the driver's side was tough. I got the nut off the front bolt without too much trouble but the bolt nearest the rear was really hard to get to. I'm not sure if I was expecting too much from these Sensatracs, but I'm rather disappointed with the results. My stock shocks had 137,000 miles on them, and I can't tell a whole lot of difference. I live on a gravel road that gets the typical washboarding. The new shocks keep the truck from kicking sideways over those bumps but without that, I wouldn't really notice much difference. It seems like the truck rode better when I bought it at 96,000 miles with the stock shocks on there than it does now with the Sensatracs. Maybe I was just expecting too much.