Shock Question

[H D]

I have Rancho RS5000s that are going on Saturday. Does having shackles on the rear make any difference to the shocks?



I feel really stupid, but it just seems that the RS5185 just isn't long enough to go on the rear. With or without lift, Rancho recommends the RS5185 for the rear, so I can't figure out how these are going to work. Is this just one of those things that will make sense when I start wrenching? What am I missing. Nothing like something so simple making you feel so stupid.



If necessary, I'll remove the Warrior shackles before I return the shocks. I don't really need the shackles. So, what should I do?



Thanks in advance. I love having a place to ask stupid questions and get great answers.

 

[Johnny O]

I had shackles on my old Trac with stock length shocks, it was fine. If it's the Warrior shackles they're only 1.25" longer, not a big deal.

 

[EddieS'04]

Hugh, as johnny said, you will good to go. As long as they shiped the right part#.

 

[Jerry Gerner 2]

I had the Rancho 9000XL's on mine and had no problems with the length's for rears but the fronts I had problems with them overextending for some reason. I now how Monroe's Sensitrac front and rear and haven't had any problems to speak of so far but I haven't done any serious trailin' or offroading like I did with the Rancho's.

 

[Todd Cloutier]

I have Rancho RSX's on mine, and have had no issues with the Warrior shackles.

 

[H D]

I had a complete dumb moment and ignorance of how monotube shocks operate. I am now embarrassed to have asked. Thanks for the responses.



I got the rears on tonight but didn't have time to do the front. The rubber boots are the most difficult part but with a little soapy water and patience (the real difficulty) they went on just fine. It's hard to judge how well they work with the front being so absolutely terrible but I should get those done tomorrow.

 

[Johnny O]

When I did it on my old Trac I thought the fronts were easier to change.

 

[Jerry Gerner 2]

The fronts are easier then the rears to change out.

 

[Todd Cloutier]

The rears aren't so bad on the 01's. There's not as much emissions stuff in the way of the top mounts compared to later models.

 

[H D]

Just the one box on the driver's side. Three bolts and move aside.

 

[EddieS'04]

For the rear top bolts. A 13mm flex head ratchet wrench is great.

 

[H D]

The fronts took no time at all. I did them this morning. The ride is amazingly improved. I can't believe I didn't do the shocks when I bought it.



I recommend everyone have a body lift to make replacing the rear shocks easier.:grin:



I still have a squeak that I previously thought was just the driver's side front shock. It's not as loud, so the shock definitely was squeaking, but what could it be now? I assume it was happening simultaneously with the shock before I replaced them. Only apparent on bumps and definitely on the front driver's side. Nothing when I push on the body myself from outside the vehicle.

 

[Johnny O]

Ball joints will squeak. They are not greasable and tend to go bad. I've had them replaced on my previous Trac and Ranger on the 3/36 warranty. Also an axle seal on both and a wheel bearing on the Trac.

What I could never figure out is how the left ball joint could crap out but not the right. You would think both sides of the truck have the same number of miles. :grin:

 

[EddieS'04]

I have been greasing joints and tie rods. I use a grease needle. with my pnuematic grease gun.

 

[Johnny O]

I have been greasing joints and tie rods. I use a grease needle. with my pnuematic grease gun.

I have one but I was afraid it would leak out if I did that. Do you just stick into the cover and it's okay?

 

[EddieS'04]

Johnny.

My rubber seals are still soft. They seem to close up the pin hole. The only leak I have. Is a small amount after pulling the needle. After it stops I wipe it. I havent seen any leaks afterwards. I also tend to needle it in a specific and same general area. I will be able to monitor a leak. Also the area I pic is away from brakes or anything else. Where if it does leak. No problems.



As the trac gets older and the seals harden. It might have problems sealing. In the mean time Im hoping alittle grease every oil change. Helps the life of the joints.



One tip is to push the needle in at angle, without going out the other side. I ruined one needle hit the ball joint. When I pulled it to straighten it. It broke.



My pnuematic grease gun made it easier as I can hold one hand on the needle.