shock installs - question

[Jerry Abson 3]

So I understand how simple it is to replace, a few bolts here, another there. Will also be installing the new sway bar as well. shocks are currently backordered, so did some more studying, and found something that needs more explaining.



I have decided to use a rent-a-garage with a lift. The lift will be the 'drive' on kind, not the arms that swing out. some vid's and instructions say to jack the axles up during install, while others make no mention of that step.



From what I see, I don't see why jacking up the axles will help, except compress the shock, making it harder to remove the bolt.



so, does it matter if I jack the axles or not?



Also, regarding sway bar. Cant find anything other than written instructions for replacing sway bar. All the vids I have seen are to install a sway bar on a rig that didn't come with one. And they all show loading the sway bar after installing, then tightening everything down once rig is lowered. Should I skip this step or is this a step not mentioned in the install that I should perform?



Thanks in advance everyone!

 

[Vic Sorlie]

Maybe others will disagree, but I think you'll need to remove the wheels to get at the shocks, both front and rear. A drive-on lift won't answer. Sway bar replacement is pretty straightforward; you'll see when you get underneath. Be sure to install new sway bar end links.

 

[Doug K 2]

I'm doing a shock replacement soon too and I was wondering if the spring around the shock makes it any difficult to replace. Also should the spring replaced while I am under there or are they normally good until they break? Not a mechanic as you can tell but the replacement process seems straight forward. Thanks for any help in addition to Jerry's orignal post.

 

[Duane Foster]

Removing the wheels is necessary to have room to get at the front shocks I think, but not necessary at the rear.

 

[swshawaii]

13mm swivel ratcheting wrench will make the rear drivers side shock MUCH easier.

When you see the inboard upper bolts you will know why. Thank Eddie for that one. :banana:

 

[Yardsale]

I removed no wheels on my '01, nor did I lift or jack it up.



If a 4WD, lifting the front axle (housing) will only raise the vehicle because it's an independent suspension and mounted on the frame. To raise the front wheels, the lower control arm must be lifted.



If a frame lift is used, the suspension will droop, and the wheels drop, so lifting the rear axle or front lower control arms will raise the lower shock mounts and bring them closer to the upper mounts (but no closer than as setting on the ground; the suspension would have to be compressed to so this). If using drive-on ramps, lifting the rear axle or front lower control arms will not compress the shocks; it'll only raise the vehicle (the sprung weight remains the same). Either lift will provide more ground space.



For easier access to the top bolt on the left rear shock, remove the spare tire and the EVAP canister bolts and move it a few inches out of the way. Do not disconnect the hoses; just move it.

 

[Jerry Abson 3]

Thanks Yardsale. So I can continue to use the drive on lift! Im getting to old to be rolling around the ground!

 

[Igor Smetaniuk]

Jerry - how long have the shocks been on there?



I use a 4 1/2" grinder with a metal cut-off disc (have spares on hand) to cut through the rear shocks at the top neck/ear and then use a thicker wheel to grind the nuts off the ear. I've had shocks that had rusted bolt heads and the wrench could not grab hold. The space to work above the shock support bracket is extremely limited and a blind challenge that's sure as sh!t to get crap in your eyes so wear glasses. You can run a box fan below the rear of the trac if you wind up grinding in case of stray gas fumes around your fuel evap system.



It doesn't matter if the car is jacked or not to change shocks. I do it jacked up and have had to lower the front to elevate the control arm. Tires DO NOT need removal.

 

[FlipTrac_511]

You don't have to remove the wheels, but turning the front wheels does create extra working space.

 

[Jerry Abson 3]

Toptobottom - they are stock, since 2005. I can't say they are showing signs of NEEDING replacing, there is no excessive bounce, no bottoming out, and no leaking. Just with 10 years on them, I figured its time to get its legs updated.



I will be taking it to a rent a garage facility that has a rack, and tools for rent, including a mechanic if I get into trouble. I have checked, and have the tools needed except the grinders, hopefully those wont be needed!

 

[Igor Smetaniuk]

2005 - ouch!



Like a Boy Scout 'Always be prepared'

 

[Jerry Abson 3]

thanks, just waiting on them!

 

[James Hatch]

Jerry, it will be worth it!

Changed mine out last year, they were stock from '02 and now my trac rides better than the rental Chevy equinox I have. Mine were almost 12 years old, and it was the best $200 I spent. I believe I went with Monroe. About $45 a piece.