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Stacy Waldrep

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What kind of rotors do you guys use for the front? I see them on Rock Auto from $20 each all the way up to $100 each. I don't need anything fancy but don't want cheap ones if they will warp on me or not work properly. How do I tell which ones are good quality and which ones are cheap? Or does it matter?
 
The cheap ones are 4wd 'hats' and the 100 dollar ones are hub/rotors for 2wd.. My philosophy is use decent canadian made rotors fitted with the cheapest pads you can get, and change them often My last set of rotors lasted 100,000 miles. I don't turn them , ever. Throw the new pads on, and burn them in, then drive..
 
Probably going to be a long thread...lots of choices out there. I think NAPA has some excellent parts. Link below is their Premium line, and there's Ultra Premium above that.
 
Napa quality is inconsistent lately, at least with my dealings.. My last brake job had napa shoes that were too thick, as the new drums would not fit over them. Their rotors I've seen were completely machined wrong for an F-250, the caliper bracket would not even go on the spindle.. My latest brake job used prostop products from pep boys, they messed up on the rear shoes, as they ordered the parking brake shoes for my drum rear, and did not have the correct ones listed. The best luck I've had is with advanced auto, as they seem tio have the correct parts. If I had to do it again, I'd order Raybestos from rock auto across the board.
 
I was thinking about the Raybestos ones from Rock Auto as well. They have two models for the front of a 4x4, one for $37.99 that is called Professional Grade and one for $49.79 that is called Advanced Technology. Would the cheaper one be good? Also, how do I know what rotors are Canadian made? I don't see any information about where they are made. I've never been a big fan of NAPA parts but don't really have a good reason for it. I guess I always seem to get crappy customer service there and that puts a bad taste in my mouth. Are the NAPA rotors Canadian made?
 
I have always stayed away from the parts store brand. They are easier on the wallet, but usually dont hold up. Especialy since most parts store brands come from china.



Our first ford escape,'01 model. At 42k wore the rotors rotors out before the pads. On the back side was stamped china, suprised me. They were worn past the recomended thickness. The pads could have gone 10k more miles. Rotors were too soft.
 
I found that the NAPA and Advanced auto rotor corroded bad. Whatever the coating they used in the cooling fins did not hold up in the salt. The OEMs seam to do the best and if you order them only they are about the same price. At least they were the last time I ordered any.
 
First Eddie, all new auto brake rotors are designed to last as long as the pads do. The dealer makes more money that way. Secondly drilled and slotted rotors are the only way to not suffer from having to change rotors with pads. My ST will need brakes soon and I will get my drilled & slotted rotors and ceramic pads from Brakemotive. I already have 2 vehicles with their products with absolutely no problems or excessive wear. My son drives the truck with the oldest set and hasn't worn em out yet

Good luck.
 
I don't think I want to spend enough to get drilled and slotted rotors. I don't even have those on my 5.0L Mustang. I'm starting to lean toward the Napa Premiums that are $44. The Raybestos ones from Rock Auto are cheaper until you add in the shipping costs and then it's a wash. It seems that a number of people on here have had good results with the Napa Premiums.
 
Stacy, as you can see there's quite a few opinions on parts that are designed to wear out. Let us know what you go with and later what your opinion is of the rotors/pads you selected.
 
First Eddie, all new auto brake rotors are designed to last as long as the pads do.
Click to expand...



I disagree. That is the first new car that ever did that. I replaced the front pads an my trac. The rotors were barely worn and wernt scalded or warped. I cleaned them with a rotor hone and put PF(carbon metalic) pads on. The brakes are better than oem.

I wont run drilled, sloted or dimpled rotors on the street. Excess $$$ and not needed.



I have always got 2 sets of pads to my rotors. I drive hard and fast also.



The only time I didnt, was. My'88 t-bird with the built GT 5.0L, I put in it. Came with 14" wheels and undersized brakes(4 lug mustang rotors). I made the mistake of not getting light weight wheels. When I went to 16". The weight took its toll on the brakes, suspension, handling and performance. I scorched them to the point of hairline cracking.
 
I ran slotted and dimpled rotors on my trac, and the only thing they did for me is superior fade resistance, but did not stop any better..
 
STanner,

I have the performance friction pads. They are carbon metalic. They have excelent fade resistance. It seems that the hotter they get. From continious high speed stops. The better they grab. I have actually tested them doing hard 80mph stops. 3 times back to back. No fadeing at all. The suface of my oem rotors, do not have any sign of burnt. From the heat. The PF pads, are $85 @ O'rielys auto.

They do throw dust,but. I prefer the excelent fade resistance for safety. I dont think performace rotors will make them any better. After more than 10k miles. They dont appear to be chewing my rotors or burning them either. When time comes, I will put PF pads on the rear.
 

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