Rotor Replacement

[Andy Cabrera]

I just found that my brake pades are at 3/32" so I have to do brakes.

My 2002 rotors I understand are composite. Is it essential that I replace them with composite or can I use steel?



Also I have researched various rotors & I see different ones that say "Stage 3 or 4 or 5" What does the Stage number mean??

 

[Mark Stadnicki]

Composite rotors??? You running racing brakes on that thing? When I had my 2002, it had regular steel rotors with the wheel bearing hub as one unit. Rockauto- $55

 

[Vic Sorlie]

They're cast iron my friend. There's lots of choices on replacements, and there are many posts on brake projects on this site. Last brake job for me was Akebono ceramic pads, resurfaced original rotors, new hardware from NAPA. Worked good for me.

 

[Vic Sorlie]

They're cast iron my friend. There's lots of choices on replacements, and there are many posts on brake projects on this site. Last brake job for me was Akebono ceramic pads, resurfaced original rotors, new hardware from NAPA. Worked good for me.

 

[EddieS'04]

Cast Iron is oem on all sreet cars and trucks.

Composite rotors are something new.you might find oem composite rotors on cars in the $200K range.

If your rotors are damaged. The ones that StadEMS3 posted. Are a good replacement.



I wont claim to be right, but I have never experianced. The overwhelming amount of new rotors our members buy or change out.

I have a list of reasons not to replace or resurface rotors. IMO my brakes are as good as those with new rotors with new pads.

Nowdays the cost to turn and resurface most rotors, are. Half as much as a new one. So I will replace before turning them.

The only reason I will get new rotors along with pads are.



1) They are warped

2) They have been abused to enough heat. They have turned purple, deep enough. There is a glaze that cant be sanded off.

3) Hair line cracks

4) scared from not changing the pads soon enough. Metal on metal contact.

5) around me a good shop or parts store. Charges $20 to $22, to resurface them. A few $$ more gets new ones. I have in the past had some resurfaced. That were not set up in the lathe properly. They were not true after turning them.

6) There may be other reasons.



Im not trying to put anyone down, but. New rotors & drums, or resurfacing them is not needed just because you need new pads.



Maybe Im wrong but, it just seems like. Every time some one on here needs pads or shoes. The consensus seems to be. Change the rotors and drums.



If my rotors clean up and I know from driving it. They are not warped. I just clean the surface glaze. I mic them for wear tolerance. Then reuse them.



IMO, if they clean up and checkout reuse them ,and. Use the right type of pad material for your driving style. Remove the bleeders and push the pistons in by hand. For 2 reasons. You will know if the caliper pistons move freely . And not pushing the old fluid backwards into the system.



:soap::bwahaha:

 

[scott degroot]

Composite brake rotors are not exotic. Alot of mfgs switched to them int he late 80's to try and save weight. The rotors themselves were made of a thin stamped steel center and the rotor itself was cast iron. The stamped steel (hat) section of the rotor was very thin and therefore was easily warped from overtightening the wheels, they were also a PITA to resurface because tey would vibrate like no tomorrow on the lathe.

 

[Scott Tanner]

I use the cheapest pads I can find, and throw them on the rotors, with only a de-glaze. the cheap pad will not wear the metal down like semi metaics will. The rotors last 100,000 miles. never had an issue. I also grease the sliders 2x per year (I'm in the salt/rust belt)

 

[Jackson Ellis]

Brakes generate more discussion (IMO) than any other maintenance item on most boards I read, bikes, cars, or trucks. Some chant cheap! cheap! cheap! and others yell Brembo, carbon, slotted!



Since everyone has their own opinion, I'll add mine. I usually upgrade factory brakes:toilet: to the largest, reasonably priced option I can get. I don't go Brembo, but I don't go "unknown" either. My 2010 limited has 18' wheels with lots of room for larger rotors and pads. Right now, it has a very non-linear, ineffective brake feel, and I like my brakes "right there" with very little free pedal travel, that you can modulate with small inputs. It's a preference I'll pay (a little) more for. DIY, and you'll save over a shop job with lesser quality parts.

 

[Robert Howell]

What did you manage to get for bigger brakes for a Gen 2?

 

[Andy Cabrera]

I don't know if they are pulling my chain about the rotors as I haven't had a chance to pull them off yet to confirm what they are. This is the 2nd shop that has told me they were composite & turning then would cause vibration.



My Trac rolls very little since I bought my motorcycle (1,200 miles a year max) so I was hoping that replacing them with steel was not detrimental. Steel has ALWAYS worked good for me on other cars & why go expensive on a driveway queen. <lol>



Now my second question is "Stage 3 or 4 or 5" What does the Stage number mean?? I have seen this alot online when I was looking at different sites but they don't explain that.

 

[Bob McDonald]

Andy,

I would guess that when someone said you had composite brakes, they were talking about the pads, not the rotors. If that be the case. i would suggest using ceramic pads instead of composite for reduced brake dust. At least that is my two cents worth.

 

[Johnny O]

The best rotors for the money IMHO are NAPA's Ultra Premiums. They cost more but last longer, I once had a pair cut three times and they were still legal. The wife is hard on brakes. NAPA Ceramix pads, good feel and almost no dust.