Rear Disc brakes not working after brake job

[Todd Z]

Well Just asking this, I know what I want to do, but just wondering what everyone else would do..



Ok, I did my brakes 3 weeks ago ( all 4 wheels) I bled the brakes.

I changed all 4 rotors and pads, The FRONT are D/S with P/F pads, the rears are P/F pads and new oem style rotors, lubed all slides, wire brushed everything ETC.



The truck stops like DOG SH**********....



After further looking into it , the rears are only grabbing 50%... The tires spin in drive with the pedal pushed..

ALSO I have the drivers side front caliper hanging up a slight bit, not a lot, but more than I like it to... and More then the Pass side...



NOW I broke 1 bleeder off in the right rear caliper, So I bled it from the brake line, and re bled the brakes...



Still the same...



I really don't want to replace the calipers, but you think it is worth my time to try to easy out the bleeder or just replace the calipers..



THE reason I am asking is this. I have P/F pads on the rear with stock rotors. I got my D/S Gold rotors today and want to do the next job 1 time only...



What would you do ???



Edit: my idea is to just change all 4 calipers, and install the new rear pads and rotors..



Thanks

Todd Z

 

[Kevin Palmer]

Todd, to bleed the caliper better with the broken bleed I would suggest the following.



Remove the caliper, put a block of wood in the slot to prevent the piston from pooping out. Have someone pump it up and the crack the line ENSURING that area where the line and the caliper come together is on top where the air will want to be. Do this six or seven times and you should push any air out...

 

[Tom Schindler]

Don't know what to tell you. Never had that problem.



I won't go over the basics because I am sure you already went over them. Are you sure the Master Cylinder is still good. Many times, a ridge can build up from light braking in the master cylinder wall. When you bleed the brakes, you go over the edge and cause it to leak when you try to stop.



Also, are you sure your calipers working good. Possibly they could need to be rebuilt. Not a big deal though.





Tom

 

[Greg Grimes01]

YOU HAVE AIR BEHIND THE PISTON IN THE CALPER. FIX THE BLEEDER SCREW,AND TRY IT AGAIN. WHEN YOU BLEED THE LINE ,YOU ARE NOT REMOVING THE AIR IN THE CALIPER.PS: SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS,FORGOT THEY WERE ON!!.

 

[Ron N]

Unless you are just wanting to spend the money. I would try to remove the old bleeder and replace it. If you end up messing it up,well you know the next choice._Ron

 

[Richard L]

Todd,

Replace the bleader screw. You cannot purge the air out of the caliper via the brake line.



The original problem may have been caused by corroded calipers. Since the corrossion of the piston bore happens behind the piston, you often don't know anything is wrong with the caliper until the piston is pushed back to insert the new, thicker brake bads. Then the piston is over the pitted/corroded portion of the caliper bore and starts to bind and then the problems begin.



You should probably flush the brake fluid completely. Years ago, I replaced the front pads on my Honda because they were getting thin but the brakes were still working fine. After the new front pads were installed the brakes were worthless, especially the rear brakes?? I flushed out all the old fluid (and it was nasty) and put in fresh fluid and the brakes were perfectly fine after that.



That's why I always say to flush your brake fluid every 2-3 years or with every brake job. Just bleeding the brakes in not good enough.



...Rich

 

[Lloyd Curry]

Todd,



Another suggestion. For years I had to have someone pump the brakes while I bled the fluid.



If you don't have a brake bleeder vacuum pump, get it now. It will save you a tremendous amount of work and it becomes a one person operation.



I couldn't tell from you post if you were using one. If you have one already disregard the post.

 

[Todd Z]

Rich, I completely flushed the fluid 6 months ago, thats when I broke the bleeder screw and noticed I needed new pads...



George and I managed to get the bleeder loose on the broken side, re bled the system completely again...



Seems to be golden now. I will get either new bleeder screws for the back, or replace the claipers...



Now I can add my D/S rotors and get my spacers back on..



Thanks

Todd Z