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Richard Toms

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I really do not know what is going on with my truck. Over the past week I have had some problems occur and I have no idea how or what. All I can say is, my power mirrors do not work, power locks do not auto lock when vehicle is put in drive, my OverDrive button doesn't function, and the OBD2 port doesn't work anymore either. I started first with pulling fuses to check them all out. Most of them look fine. One doesn't look so good. I checked at FORD parts and they didn't have a clue. Last weekend when I went to junkyard for stuff, they had no Sport Trac's. Other than this one fuse, I really do not know what to do. I tried today to use my SCT Tuner to change the gas after fill up and OBD2 doesn't even turn the thing on.



The white 25 box fuse is the only one that doesn't look like the rest. Looks like it has a little burn mark on the inside, unlike the others.



[Broken External Image]:



[Broken External Image]:



Oh and LOL, the check engine light I have been dealing with since December, is still on. Have changed almost everything there is to change on it and still no fix. Hate to say, but might just be time to junk this thing.
 
If that fuse has a burn spot or a break in the copper circle its blown. If you have a tester you could always test it. Also it tells you in the owners manual what each fuse controls
 
Did you check the fuses under the dash?

Any fusible links fried?

Is your battery fully charged and testing OK?

Charging system testing OK?

All connectors clean, tight, corrosion-free?
 
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It's pretty easy to check continuity of that 25 ohm fuse. Local parts store may even help you. +1 on Owner's Manual fuse location chart - that'll point you to which fuse goes to what circuit. If your CEL is on, parts store can read code for you.
 
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Ditto Gavin. When you are having electrical problems, the first things to check on these trucks are the battery, connections, and alternator.



Does the cigarette lighter work? Lighter and the OBD port are the same fuse circuit inside the passenger compartment fuse panel. (#17)



Pages 148-153
 
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Thanks for the link swshawaii. Didn't know there was a diagram for what stuff is. Well I guess from checking that, then the #25 white fuse is not at fault. I did just drive it today. It just seems to have a burnt mark on the inside. But its for ignition and it starts fine.



The battery I just got like last year and the alternator is about 2 years old. All fuses inside and outside have been checked. Just need to recheck that they have been re put in the right spot. Dad was checking them yesterday.



I did not check if the cig lighter works or not. The lower extra plug thing works though, but I do not know if they are on the same fuse.



Its getting dark and its been raining all day. I will try to check the fuses again tomorrow and recheck the battery terminals also. We just cleaned the terminals yesterday.



Would autozone or a rep shop have testing equipment to check my battery/alternator? I know they have scanners, guess I can see if there scanner will work on the port.



Thanks for the help of this POS. Since I've hit 180,000 miles, this thing has gone to crap.



 
Have you checked the "Central Security Module" (White box behind the passenger side airbag?)



I went in there to cut the #1 wire so my xenon projectors don't flash every time I lock my truck. Now I don't have Auto headlights anymore, go figure. Perhaps a wire has come loose out of the back of it? Might be worth checking. Just throwing some ideas out there since that box controls alot things.



This is the best I could find, hope it helps.



YEAR: 2002 MAKE: Ford MODEL: Explorer Sport Trac STYLE:



| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL | WIRE LOCATION |

| 12V |yellow | + |ignition harness |

| STARTER |red/lt. blue | + |ignition harness |

| IGNITION |lt green/purple | + |ignition harness |

| ACCESSORY |brown *1 | + |ignition harness |

| SECOND ACCESSORY |black/green | + |ignition harness |

| POWER LOCK |pink/yellow | *8 |driver's kick panel |

| POWER UNLOCK |pink/lt green *9 | *8 |driver's kick panel |

| LOCK MOTOR |pink/black | |driver's kick panel |

| UNLOCK MOTOR |red/orange | |driver's kick panel |

| DISARM DEFEAT |pink/orange *2 | |driver's kick panel |

| PARKING LIGHTS + |wht/blk or brown | |headlight switch or DKP |

| PARKING LIGHTS - |white/purple | |*3 |

| HEADLIGHTS |red/yellow | + |headlight switch |

| DOOR TRIGGER |*4 | - |*4 |

| DOME SUPERVISION |use door trigger | | |

| TRUNK/HATCH PIN |white/purple | - |driver's kick panel |

| HOOD PIN |tan/lt.green | - |driver's kick panel |

| FACTORY ALARM ARM |arms on lock *5 | | |

|FACTORY ALARM DISARM |dk. green/purple | - |driver's kick panel |

| TACHOMETER |tan/yellow | |PCM *6 |

| SPEED SENSE |gray/black | 8 |PCM *6 |

| BRAKE WIRE |lt green | + |driver's kick, brake switch |

| HORN TRIGGER |yellow/lt. green | - |steering column |

| WIPERS |wht & dk.blu/org *7 | + |wiper motor or relay |

| LF WINDOW UP/DOWN |wht/blk - red | A |at motor in dr door |

| RF WINDOW UP/DOWN |wht/yel - tan/lt.blu | A |sw dr door or dr kick |

| LR WINDOW UP/DOWN |yel/lt.blu - gry/org | A |sw dr door or dr kick |

| RR WINDOW UP/DOWN |yel/blk - red/blk | A |sw dr door or dr kick |

| RADIO 12V |lt green/purple | + |at radio |

| RADIO GROUND |black | - |at radio |

| RADIO SWITCH |yellow/black | + |at radio |

| RADIO ILLUMINATE |red/black | + |at radio |

| LF SPEAKER |org/lt grn-lt blu/wh | |at radio |

| RF SPEAKER |wht/lt grn - grn/org | |at radio |

| LR SPEAKER |tan/yel - gry/lt blu | |at radio |

| RR SPEAKER |org/red - brn/pnk | |at radio |



 
NOTES:

NOTE: Some models of this vehicle are equipped with PATS (Passive Anti

Theft System). Use DEI module 555U to over-ride during remote start.

*1 Two brown wires at switch, both have to be powered for remote start.

*2 You may also use the pink/green power unlock wire.

*3 On early production vehicles it is in the driver kick panel, in the

harness to the rear of the vehicle. On late production vehicles it is

behind the glove box at the central security module.

*4 In the drivers door harness find yellow/black for the drivers door. In

the drivers kick panel find lt. green/yellow for the drivers rear door. In

the passengers kick panel find gray/red for the passenger front door, and

pink/lt. blue for the passengers rear door. All four wires are negative

trigger and must be diode isolated together. Refer to directfax document

#1076 for wiring information.

*5 Arms on lock only with door open. It is necessary to send a signal to

door trigger as well as lock to arm factory alarm.

*6 The PCM is located at the top of the firewall towards the passenger

side, the tan/yellow tach wire is also found at the back of the instrument

cluster. Can also use any tan/stripe at the coil pack.

*7 Also found yellow/white (-) at the firewall connector.

*8 On models with keyless entry the doorlocks are negative trigger.

Without keyless entry they are 5wi reverse polarity.

*9 The GEM in this vehicle shuts down after the doors have been locked for

a certain time period
 
So I got the chance to check the fuses that Dad had already checked. Little to what I knew, Dad moved some around. And I fixed that. Good job. I got my OB2 port working again.



Wasn't there a recall on the O/D button not working like years ago. I know I got it fixed one time ages ago. Just thought I would ask.
 
Good for you! My Dad used to fix my mess-ups all the time, now seems I have to fix his. Sometimes hard to keep 'em from messing with stuff. Parents are so cute- they want to help- it is hard to punish them when they screw up. :bwahaha:
 

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