PVC Valve - Proper Remove and Replace

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Michael Murphy 2

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Hi Out there in Sport Trac world.
I love my 2010 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 with 173,000 miles on it.
I am getting a small oil leak that someone said it probably was a rear main engine seal.
After some research I learned that a clogged PCV valve might cause oil leaks.
So I am reaching out to my fellow Sport Trac'ers to get better informed and less confused.
If the oil leak is due to the PCV valve, this is the one the Ford Parts specify for my vehicle (Motorcraft PCV Valve - EV261), could someone reply with how to replace it correctly. And how often should this part be replaced?
If the oil leak is due to the main rear seal, does Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal Repair work?
And if the seal repair does not work, what does it take to remove and replace the main rear seal, what should also be replaced at the same time, and if possible give me a ball park cost to get it done?
Thank you for your time and help,
Murph
 
Michael Murphy 2 said:
...2010 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 with 173,000 miles
...small oil leak...rear main engine seal
...clogged PCV valve might cause oil leaks...Motorcraft PCV Valve - EV261...how often should this part be replaced?
...does Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal Repair work?
...what does it take to remove and replace the main rear seal...cost to get it done?
...does using synthetic oil contribute to oil leaks?
Click to expand...

A bad PCVValve at the rear of the LeftValveCover or disconnected PCVHose on either ValveCover,
can contribute to excess Crankcase pressure & force oil around seals that otherwise dont leak.

1st, check the PCV hoses+connections to both the PCVValve & to the right ValveCover;
rubber elbows in the PCV hoses are a NotoriousFailureItem\NFI; commonly crack+leak & cause issues.

2nd, unplug the electrical heater connection on your EV261 PCVValve (earlier V6~4.0L~SOHC engines had a Coolant "Warming" Loop+OxBowFitting around the PCVValve that never really worked).
Turn the PCVValve counterclockwise\CCW about 1/4turn to remove it from the rear of the left ValveCover; careful as plastic tabs in ValveCover hole can easily break off if forced. Shake the PCVValve; it should rattle; if no rattle then its full of oil sludge; clean with CarbCleanerSpray; best to renew or at least clean PCVValve every 33kMiles\4yrs, so you're way overdue.

I've used ATP# AT-205 (Lubegard#SealFix is the same stuff, cheaper & more available) with some success on MainSeals. Replacing RearMainSeal requires seperating the Engin+Trans; either pulling the Engin or pulling the Trans; pick your poison, not cheap unless you do the work yourself.; neither is a simple quick process.

Personal preference for all my vehicles is FullSyn Oil; assuming your using recommended oil weight, it does NOT leak any more\less than traditional "Dino" Oil; bad\weak seals\gaskets are what cause oil leaks. Switching to oil that is one weight heavier is commonly done in older high mileage engines like yours to help minimize leaks & quiet the engin; say changing from 0w20 to 0w30 or 5w30 to 5w40; again FullSyn is my preference.

Considering known issues+fixes with V6~4.0L~SOHC engines, hopefully you've changed the Oil+Filter every 4kMiles\6mths & renewed the two OilPressuized TimingTensioners at least once, needed every 100kMiles\12yrs.
 
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DILLARD000 said:
A bad PCVValve at the rear of the LeftValveCover or disconnected PCVHose on either ValveCover,
can contribute to excess Crankcase pressure & force oil around seals that otherwise dont leak.

1st, check the PCV hoses+connections to both the PCVValve & to the right ValveCover;
rubber elbows in the PCV hoses are a NotoriousFailureItem\NFI; commonly crack+leak & cause issues.

2nd, unplug the electrical heater connection on your EV261 PCVValve (earlier V6~4.0L~SOHC engines had a Coolant "Warming" Loop+OxBowFitting around the PCVValve that never really worked).
Turn the PCVValve counterclockwise\CCW about 1/4turn to remove it from the rear of the left ValveCover; careful as plastic tabs in ValveCover hole can easily break off if forced. Shake the PCVValve; it should rattle; if no rattle then its full of oil sludge; clean with CarbCleanerSpray; best to renew or at least clean PCVValve every 33kMiles\4yrs, so you're way overdue.

I've used ATP# AT-205 (Lubegard#SealFix is the same stuff, cheaper & more available) with some success on MainSeals. Replacing RearMainSeal requires seperating the Engin+Trans; either pulling the Engin or pulling the Trans; pick your poison, not cheap unless you do the work yourself.; neither is a simple quick process.

Personal preference for all my vehicles is FullSyn Oil; assuming your using recommended oil weight, it does NOT leak any more\less than traditional "Dino" Oil; bad\weak seals\gaskets are what cause oil leaks. Switching to oil that is one weight heavier is commonly done in older high mileage engines like yours to help minimize leaks & quiet the engin; say changing from 0w20 to 0w30 or 5w30 to 5w40; again FullSyn is my preference.

Considering known issues+fixes with V6~4.0L~SOHC engines, hopefully you've changed the Oil+Filter every 4kMiles\6mths & renewed the two OilPressuized TimingTensioners at least once, needed every 100kMiles\12yrs.
Click to expand...
Dillard000,
Thank you for your detailed reply...I'll move forward with these tips.
Again, thanks.
 
Michael Murphy 2 said:
Hmmm, could you please expand on the Oil Pressurized Timing Tensioners...especially given there are over 170K miles on it. Are they something that need the dealer, or simply a good mechanic?
Click to expand...
IntakeManifold design on your 2010 actually allows easier access to the FrontLeft TimingTensioner,
compared to my 2001. The RearRight TimingTensioner requires removing the Wheel+MudGuard,
but relatively simple to do; hardest part is just making sure you don't cross thread the new Tensioners and that the Gasket\Seal\Washer is centered and seals proper. 1st choice is MotorCraft, 2nd choice is Cloyes; avoid the cheap aftermarket Tensioners, known to fail much too quickly.
Click here for more info.
 
DILLARD000 said:
IntakeManifold design on your 2010 actually allows easier access to the FrontLeft TimingTensioner,
compared to my 2001. The RearRight TimingTensioner requires removing the Wheel+MudGuard,
but relatively simple to do; hardest part is just making sure you don't cross thread the new Tensioners and that the Gasket\Seal\Washer is centered and seals proper. 1st choice is MotorCraft, 2nd choice is Cloyes; avoid the cheap aftermarket Tensioners, known to fail much too quickly.
Click here for more info.
Click to expand...
...and you think with my ST having 173k miles, I should get both tensioners replaced?
What are the symptoms if the ones I have are worn out?
Thank You
 
Michael Murphy 2 said:
...and you think with my ST having 173k miles, I should get both tensioners replaced?
What are the symptoms if the ones I have are worn out?
Thank You
Click to expand...
Yes. If either Tensioner wears out, means it has lost its ability to put tension on that timing chain, which allows it to run loose, slapping surrounding components, sounds like a diesel running, aka "Death Rattle". First thing likely to break once Tensioner does not work & Chain is slapping, will be a plastic TensionerGuide\Cassette. Then Chain gets looser, starts slapping the plastic ValveCover, breaking that seal and\or cutting a crack\hole in the top end of ValveCover, leaking oil. Run this way long enough, chain starts jumping gear teeth, damaging pistons+valves, then vehicle needs either a new engin or a JunkYard crusher.

So again yes, assuming you have no rattle yet at 173kMiles, renewing both the FrontLeft and RearRight OilPressurized TimingTensioners for the first time since factory is a reasonable thing to do. If you have a slight rattle for a few seconds after starting engin, new Tensioners may help or a TimingGuide\Cassette may already be damaged to the point where it also needs to be replaced.

After changing several of these OilPressurized Tensioners, my gut feeling is that over time they get gummed up internally with Oil Sludge+Grit, nixxing their ability to put tension on the Chain. Of course, those who choose not to routinely change the Oil+Filter will suffer the consequences of this sooner than later.
 
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