newbie - first post

Ford SportTrac Forum

Help Support Ford SportTrac Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

marlon giese

Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2011
Messages
83
Reaction score
0
Location
LaGrange, WY
I am new to the site but not new to the concept of forums and message boards!

Just purchased a used 2004 ST 4x4 xlt about a month ago and have a few maintenance related items that might help round out the site.



I am working on doing the O2 or Oxygen sensor replacement today. Got the first 2 done in about an hour but the 3rd is a bugger and still waiting on the penetrating oil to work while the truck is jacked up on the front right corner with the wheel off.



Happy to write up the process for this and the other maintenance I've doen by relacing the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor.



a bit of background about me... I live in SE wyoming and work in SW Nebraska at a well know outdoors retailer. I had 28 years working for a major auto parts chain prior to moving here in 2006 and I was ASE certified as a Parts Pro. Needless to say, I have turned my share of wrenches and used a lot of diagnistic tools. As a matter of fact I still do most all of my repairs and maintenance. I have foound over the years as the internet came about that people posted solutions to their issues and I like to help the same way when I can. Sport Tracs are tough to find any info about and the best option many times is wrong when you use the explorer as the "same as" answer.



Anyway, if you need some help I might be able to point you the right direction and if you have an answer, please post so I and others have the info to help keep the ST community rolling along .

Thanks and more to come on the O2 sensor swap completion!:banana:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Welcome

Just being curious, but why are you replaceing the O2 sensors? were they giving you a code?



also, a light tap around the O2 bung might help loosen the grip.

 
Marlon, welcome to our group. Lots of good people and help when needed. I have to agree with Phil, were you getting any DTC's that said the sensors were N/G?

Now, can you still get a discount at Cabella's? Write up any repairs(with photos) and send 'em to Todd Z. Instructions are in the column to the left. Good luck, Bob
 
I was Replacing the sensors as one was showing low voltage but no MIL light. I have a code scanner with real time monitor mode and did a monitor test. I was seeing 2 sensors were slow in their response time so decided to change them all at once. got a deal on them and my labor is cheap but my knuckles still bleed. LOL. hoping to get my 16.5-17.5mpg closer to 20mpg and tackling these first. Truck has 92k is 4x4 with new bridgestones inflated fully. runs great and rides nice too. I drive about 100 miles to work and 55 to the nearest main town. most are 65-75mph roads and 1-4 stops signs in the average 100 miles.



As for work, yeah, I just about sign over my check it seems Ha ha. great stuff and great people.



Write up, yes, can do but did not take pictures on this one. The fuel rail sensor is a piece of cake if you do not follow the Explorer directions. :banghead:Still learning there are lots of differences.



Next projects after fuel econly related are to figure out the seat problems. No heat but have the light on the switch. also the Lumbar blows but no inflation. I've got the ford shop manual and it seems to have a boatload of tests but not a lot of "information" ifn ya know what I mean. Looks like might be needing UCL and LCL bushing in the next year as well, but the truck overall is amazing.



Thanks for the welcome and when I have a bit ot time I can do the write up. All in all the sensors should take about 2 hours with hand tools. Be sure the lead length is long enough on replacements. will take Less time if you have small hands and more time if you have larger ones.
 
The best bang for your buck to improve fuel economy is a cat-back exhaust. Intakes don't make any difference IMO because the stocker isn't very restrictive to begin with. On a Gen 1 just pull out the silencer, maybe get a K&N drop-in, and call it good.

On an '04 at this point I would also change all the fluids. Tranny flush and the front diff has to be done at a shop with a suction machine. Rear you can do yourself, use synthetic fluids everywhere. Transfer case is easy to do yourself, I use Mobil 1 ATF in mine. Synthetic oil, I get the best UOA's with Pennzoil Platinum although using Mobil 1 0w-30 Fuel Economy Formula was okay.
 
Top