Need some advice for seating the wheel bearings - help!

[Eric Pennal]

Hey guys! I've got a question regarding the install of the rotors - which I'm in the middle of doing right now.



This is such a stupid problem, but I need some advice on the best way to solve it. I thought I had all the tools I needed for this job. I've got the torque wrenches to put the spindle nut back on - and I've got the torque settings - but here's my problem: the only socket I've got that's big enough to turn the spindle nut fits a 1/2" drive ratchet, but my torque wrenches have 3/8" drives. I don't have any adapters that step up from 3/8" to 1/2" - only the other way around.



How critical is it to seat the wheel bearings to exactly 21 lb/ft? Can I wing it, and be OK? Just tighten it down nice and snug, then back off, then re-tighten to approximately 17 lb/in? If it's critical, I've got to stop and go buy an adapter or a socket.



Thanks.

 

[mookie]

Do you have a vehicle to go get the adapter, now?

If so, do it.

If not, do what you described above and then re-do it when you get the adapter.

I would think driving for a short while would be okay, but I would want to know I have the right torque.

I may be too finicky. This advice is coming from an aviation technician.

 

[Eric Pennal]

Thanks Mookie, I'm the same way. I was hoping to hear that it was OK to go by feel, and keep on going.



I won't have another vehicle until my wife comes home from work. I've already called and asked her to stop by Auto Zone on the way home to pick up what I need.



I just didn't want to put the job on hold all afternoon, for this one stupid little problem. No matter how well you prepare, you can still miss something.

 

[Dreman]

I've driven for hundreds of miles with the front wheel bearings slightly loose. I've checked them for wear every time, and there isn't any indication of wear. For a long time they seemed to get loose no matter what I did, until I figured out that the little sheet metal lock that fits between the spindle nut and the cotter pin was letting the nut loosen up slightly. I squished it carefully in channel-lock pliers until it fit tightly, and it hasn't been a problem since. I tightened the spindle nuts by feel, too.



And if you think I'm just a disaster waiting to happen, the left front bearings came with the Trac 128,000 miles ago. I changed the right fronts to see if they were causing the looseness. I think the grease Ford specs for these vehicles is really top-notch, and allows for more leeway than I would normally allow.

 

[Todd Z]

I actually never torqued them in my life..



I spin the rotor with 1 hand and tighten the nut until the rotor has resistance, and got harder to turn... Then I loosen the nut till the rotor spins freely and then re tighten till there is slight drag on the rotor...

Just a quick way if you had to do it..

Todd Z

 

[Eric Pennal]

Thanks guys.



I already had my wifey on the way home with an adapter by the time I saw your replies, so I used the torque wrench after all. Pretty cool how you can be in the middle of a project - run into trouble - then jump on here with a question, and have an answer in time to get back to it before the end of the day.



This site is awesome!

 

[WXMotorSports DecalsPartsAccs]

I just get them as tight as possible. They won't come loose with regular driving. Even the Focus that I track I do the same thing to.

 

[Gerald Pierce]

Pretty cool how you can be in the middle of a project - run into trouble - then jump on here with a question, and have an answer in time to get back to it before the end of the day.

Wireless and a laptop, Baby!



I love being able to take the laptop outside to the garage and look up stuff online while working. My son does it with his SRT4 also.... what an awesome resource (although I think MYST.COM is better than the sites he frequents )

 

[Richard L]

Eric,

Todd is correct, I to have never used a torque wrench to adjust/tighten wheel bearings.



The only difference to my technique is I always adjust the nut with the wheel mounted on the vehicle.



You spin the wheel/tire while tightening the nut until the wheel has resistance and won't spin (but you can turn it by hand) This sets/preloads the bearing. Then back off unitl there is only a slight drag on the tire when turned by hand. back off the castelated nut (even if it aligns perfectly) one notch so that you can install the cotter pin and you are done.



...Rich

 

[Eric Pennal]

I already torqued them with a wrench. Good to know some old shade-tree mechanic's tricks, though.



BTW, a BIG thanks to everyone who jumped in with assistance. Especially Rich Lunder, who walked me through a few things via e-mail.