Hub replacment

[Will Mcfreester]

I have a bad Hub and it needs replacing. Should I spend the money and get a Motorcraft part?



Should I just replace the one that is broken? or should I do both sides? While I am doing what else should I do? I just did brakes so that is not needed, but should I do the bearings while i am in there?



Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[EddieS'04]

Motorcraft part is not nescesary. Name brand aftermarket is good. I would do both if you have high milage.

 

[Don Pertz]

I used aftermarket and did just one and the Anti-lock light came on . I replaced the other side and everything worked fine.

I think the electronic signal has to be the same from both sides.

Could have just been a fluke with mine but it worked.



I would replace both.

 

[David Ponder]

I replaced only one, with a Timken bearing assy... Never had a problem. (The other side is still the factory original one)

 

[James Kerr]

The Timken hubs are good. I put a cheap one on my truck and it needed to be replaced in less then a year. I hate changing those damn things, the bolts holding them in place are really tight, or perhaps I'm just getting old.

 

[scott degroot]

It's not that the bolts are tight it's just that the locktite Ford uses does it's job exceptionally well.



The Timken line is nice but a little spendy. I use either DriveTech America or Power train Components and have never had a single issue and they are about 1/2 the price of the Timken. The ones I use are made with SKF bearings which are also very good quality

 

[Brian Wolf]

I replaced both of mine with Timkins.

If you do it yourself, take your time with the first one, it can get frusterating getting everything apart, Once you get the first one, the other side will take no time at all. Just my personal expirence.

 

[Will Mcfreester]

I ordering the parts today. Going to go with Timkins, I found them at RockAuto for 90ish which is the best price I could find. I do not need them in a hurry as I am out of town on work so my truck is sitting and can wait.



I am also doing ball joints (moog and upper control arms) and shocks (getting monroe sensi-trac for all 4) at the same time. I have done the ball joins before on my Ranger which looks like the same thing as this so nothing new.



The trac will be back on its wheels in no time.