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How many miles?

Thread in 'Reliability' started by Mark Bentley, May 25, 2017.

  1. swshawaii

    swshawaii Well-Known Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    ^ Mileage? ATF (Mercon V) color and smell?

    Not specific to the 5R55E, but good advice and info:
    https://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/what-is-a-transmission-flush/

    Note: Some service centers use machines that add additional force to blast fluid and/or cleaning solution through the system.
    This is NEVER a good idea as this can damage seals and/or lodge sludge in places it shouldn’t be as mentioned above.
     
  2. Csdsm18

    Csdsm18 Member 1st Gen Owner 4 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    Mileage is only 77k now.
     
  3. swshawaii

    swshawaii Well-Known Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    What about fluid color and smell? Also, do you tow, haul heavy loads, or off road?

    No shifting issues and my fluid appeared clean and a light pink color with no burnt smell when I had a complete transmission service done by my small local Ford dealer at 62,000 miles. $200 included 2.5 hours labor, 20 quarts Motorcraft Mercon V, filter, and gasket. Dealer used a BG PF-5 machine that has no power and exchanges fluid using the vehicle's own transmission pump. I figured the cost of the fluid and filter alone was almost the same price as the complete service so I let them do it. YMMV
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2019
  4. swshawaii

    swshawaii Well-Known Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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  5. Csdsm18

    Csdsm18 Member 1st Gen Owner 4 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    That's a excellent deal there. I gotta call my ford dealer see what they would charge. I never checked the fluid yet. Shifts flawless no towing or heavy payloads. How many miles do you have now?
     
  6. swshawaii

    swshawaii Well-Known Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    Just passed 80,000 miles recently. Bought the ST in 2009 with 46.000 on it and drive it less than 3000 miles per year now.

    Doubt you will get the same full transmission service price today but call around. Those familiar with these 5R55 transmissions will usually only use OE Ford/Motorcraft Mercon V fluid. Providing your fluid is clean you should be safe doing a full fluid and filter exchange instead of the pan drop "dilution" method. Good luck and keep us posted with your progress.
     
  7. Jon OData

    Jon OData Well-Known Member 2nd Gen Owner 4 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    08 that I got new, currently 177k, no major issues except a rebuilt tranny and lots of front wheel bearings which is kind of normal.

    Exactly. Mine has been well-maintained since new, tranny flushed at 50k, 100k, and 130k, and it crapped out at 132k when I lost reverse. It's just a weak design.
     
  8. Burn out Bob

    Burn out Bob Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    Just purchased a 2004 XLT 2 wd 130,000 4,0 engine ,Pueblo gold metallic. The driver side rear shock was leaking so I purchased a full replacement set front & rear. Just got done replacing the rear this evening & will do the front next. I noticed the shackle on driver side has worn bushing so they will be done next.
    I neglected to post on my seat repair so will do that now. I work slow as I am an old geezer (86) & I only want to do this once.
    The foam on the drivers seat was going away & the seat upholstery was wrinkling. I pulled both seats took the bottoms of & removed the seat cushions, removed the upholstery from both & switched the foam & upholstery, added foam to the worn seat cushion & reinstalled them. The foam on the passenger seat was a bit higher on the side towards consul so when I switched them it showed up on the drivers seat towards the door, I hope that with use it will come down a bit.
    Burn Out Bob
     
  9. swshawaii

    swshawaii Well-Known Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    ^ That's tremendous Bob. There are many HALF your age that have failed replacing rear shocks because of the PITA drivers upper inboard bolt. Not only that but you had the patience to swap the foam and covers on your front seats when many have an upholstery shop do it. From what I've read the leaf spring shackle bushings are another challenging job, especially if you have corrosion issues. Wish you the best with your future projects, we can all learn something from you. Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2019
  10. Burn out Bob

    Burn out Bob Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    swshawaii thanks for the kind words. I am not worried about the shackle or bushings after doing them(shackles) on a couple of 34 fords that I maintain. The undercarriage on this XLT is pretty clean & no rust. It has been a desert car all its life. I may just replace these shackles with all new brackets & bushings. Keeping my fingers crossed on the timing chain holding up after doing all this work, not looking forward to replacing the engine. I am not too crazy about doing work on these modern vehicles as I have been an old car buff most of my life.
    My latest build & it has a flathead engine, mechanical brakes & 6 volts. It took me about 4 years off & on
     

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  11. Burn out Bob

    Burn out Bob Member 1st Gen Owner 2 Wheel Drive V6 Engine

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    Update :
    Today the 4th of July I decided to celebrate, so I finished installing the shackles on the rear axle spring. It was not a tough job.
    Remove the nuts & then punch the bolts out anyway you can,mine were worn so it didn't take much force.
    Remove the rubber bushing then take a Sawzall or hacksaw & cut the steel cylinder that was over the rubber, now get your air chisel & cut the steel housing out. Put the new bushing in the freezer the night before. Take your brake cylinder hone & make a few passes thru the spring eye. Now comes the slick part. Get some neverseize & coat the inside of the spring eye, take the bushing from the freezer & start it in the spring eye. Find a socket that will just cover or the same size of the bushing. Take your air chisel & insert the punch then put it in the socket & have at it. If you done everything correctly the air chisel will push the bushing in pretty easy. Ok now that you have done that step it is time for a beer & congratulate yourself on getting the hard part done. the shackle bolt holes probably won't line up with the spring eye so get your porta power duckbill put it on top of the spring. You may wish to put a short piece of 2X4 under the duckbill to take up some slack. put the bolt thru the top shackle & finger tighten the nut. If your spring is like mine it is really stiff. I couldn't budge it with my hands & a pry bar just didn't work so I got the port a power out. With the bolt in place move the shackle forward to line up the bottom holes. You will need to use the duckbill to move the spring to get the holes lined up. Insert a long punch to line the holes up so that the bolt will go in with light tapping & install the nut. Release the pressure on the duckbill & remove it. Tighten the bolts as tight as you can get them. I installed the bolts from the fender side as I was lying on my back under the truck. I don't have a lift. Time for another beer after all it is 108 degrees & it is the 4th of July. Enjoy you earned it.
    Burn out Bob
     

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