Gonna make the purchase soon, please help!

[WarHorse1961]

1) if I cant find the reflex, I understand the rancho rs5000 is equivalent? Thoughts?

I had the RS5000's on mine for about 2 years. Firmed up the ride nicely. Not harsh at all. However, one day I decided to do some work on the front end, lifted the truck, and found one of the front shocks had broken inside the shock body. Not sure what happened. I didn't have any suspension limiting straps, so maybe I over-extended the shock at some point.



2) I understand that most likely I will just need lower ball joints and not arms? Thoughts?

You'll need to pull the arms to replace the ball joints, so why not replace the arm instead? At least then you'll have new bushings too.



3) what are the odds of needing wheel hub and bearing? Should I just plan on doing them while we are there?

Depends on the mileage and your finances. If you think you'll be replacing the bearings in the next couple of years, and you have the money, may as well do those now.



5) what else would be smart to do while in there? Other surprises you found while attempting this???

I replaced my control arm bushings with Polyurethane bushings. Only problem was they occasionally squeaked. But the truck sure did handle nicely. Pretty easy job too. Just burn the old ones out with a propane torch then press the new ones in.

 

[swshawaii]

Your 2007 ST has struts, not shocks. Hopefully other Gen 2 owners will chime in.

 

[Dean Hedin]

The way I see it is it's labor intensive affair. So while you are "in there" then get as much done as you can. The price of parts factors in very little to the overall equation.



If you have not yet replaced the original Ford plastic coated sway bar end links then now's a good time to do those. $25 at Pepboys.



Check your half shafts. Re-manufactured half shafts don't cost that much.



If you are at 190K and the wheel bearings have never been replaced then do them now.

They can be very inexpensive:

http://www.primechoiceautoparts.com/p-5176-hub-bearing-hub-assembly-premium-new.aspx



Or you can pay $174 for a Motorcraft version at rock auto.

Quite a range in price. Yes? Somebody is lying. You have to wonder if your paying union dues on that $174 Motorcraft part. I wonder...



I paid $50 each for my hub/wheel bearings. I've held them in my hand and I can attest that the machining quality is outstanding. But...I have only had them on the truck since July, so we will have to see how long my "service grade" parts last. So far so good. BTW, my original bearings were probably OK. But you know what? While I'm in there...



My upper ball joints appeared to be fine also...but the kit was so cheap, and I was in there so...might as well..



Choose whatever parts you want... But if your going "in there" then get it all done so you don't have to go "in there again" 6 months down the road...



I'm at 83K right now on my 2003. At this point. I think my front suspension is good for another 80K.

 

[swshawaii]

WarHorse



1) if I cant find the reflex, I understand the rancho rs5000 is equivalent?

The Rancho RS5000 series shocks are primarily designed for off road use, Monroe Reflex intended for street use and are

reportedly slightly softer. Many have used them for both with good results. Struts may be completely different. Search reviews. GL



Monroe Reflex Strut (Front) #71124

Monroe Reflex Strut (Rear) #71125

 

[Yardsale]

I think Marsha's vehicle does not have struts.



While it is true that the Moog K80065 is not required, they certainly can be used and it makes the alignment jobs easier (not a direct concern unless doing them yourself). (From MOOG: * MOOG engineers recommend installing the MOOG K8674 Problem Solver cam kit or the MOOG K80065 cam and bolt kit assembly for the proper alignment procedure.) If you already have the cams, I'd keep them; if not, I'd consider getting them.



If you go with the one-piece right upper control arm, the caster adjustment is accomplished by adding or removing washers (or shims) to shift the control arm forward or backward. Again, not a direct concern unless doing alignments yourself.



So, you can have the cam bolt kits and two-piece upper control arm, none of that or a mix.



From Rancho site: Available for stock and lifted applications, RS5000? is ideal for on and off-road use, at an affordable price.



I have the RS5000 on my '85 4Runner and they are fine for all my driving.



I have had the Rancho RS9000XL on my ST for almost 50,000 and they are great for my driving. They have adjustable damping, so they can be tailored to preference (and there is a significant difference).



The choice really depends on what type driving will be done and the characteristics that are desired.

 

[H D]

I wouldn't bother with the hubs if you don't have a problem.

 

[Marsha Walker]

Shocks all the way around. Ive replaced them once with the sensatracks so will probably have to go that route again....

 

[Marsha Walker]

Anyone know what size pickle fork I need?

 

[swshawaii]

See if you can find a ball joint separator for rent. If not, AP stores usually have two pickle fork sizes, one for ball joints and one for outer tie rods.



I loosened the stud nut almost all the way off, put pressure from a jack under the nut/socket, and hit the side of the knuckle taper with a sledge. POP!

 

[Dean Hedin]

Skip the pickle fork on the air hammer. Not enough umph. I ended up hitting it with a small sledge. Mine were pretty tough to separate.