ITS A PITA! I did it, twice. Found out the first time that you don't have to take it all apart, just enough to get the cluster out. Once the cluster is out, you can access the bulbs from the rear. There are several screws below the steering column and in the 'well' of the cluster. There are then more screws and clips that remove the cluster in one piece. Put the parking brake on, drop the gear into 1st, and lower your steering wheel.
My lights suck, can barely see anything other than the speedo. I don't plan on doing it a third time.