Front Axle Drive CV Boot Repair- Gen 1 ST

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S

Snooze

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Does anyone have experience replacing the Front Drive Shaft CV Boot? It seems that uninstalling the shaft at the upper mount and replacing the upper u-joint and boot is no different than the rear drive shaft assembly.



Have any other RCD Lifted Gen 1 Tracs experienced their Drive Shaft CV Boots tearing?
 
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The CV joint wears out, and needs to be replaced. When you do the Suspension lift you really need the upgraded double cardan Superlift drive shaft. Suprised yours made it this long. Mine was shot after about 20k miles.
 
20,000 is not bad. I barely drive the truck. I am going to replace the upper/lower u-joint and boot and see how long it lasts again. I dont want to spend $400-$500 on a drive shaft right now. If were half the cost I would do it.
 
You could probably take your driveshaft out and have a shop add the double cardan cv joint to your stock drive shaft.
 
I found the diagram and part numbers for this configuration and there is some things that have come to light and questions. In the diagram drawn by Ford, it looks like the end that engages the transfer case has a boot, but this looks different than the actual context. I dont think the illustration is attempting to diagram a boot, and besides that, the boot would have to be farther down the configuration to protect the joint. With that said, when I was under the truck comparing the diagram to the built condition, I saw grease thrown from the joint onto the heat shields under the truck.... So, Ford recommends that I replace the entire drive because the "Front drive shaft CV boot is blown out" and what gave them the hint was the grease. I dont think there ever was a boot. This does not explain the grease though. Any suggestions? It would be great to compare someone elses set up as well.



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I have another question, which might be related to what Ford was referring to. I am used to CV boots looking a certain way, but is this CV boot on the interior of the cylinder? I am assuming then that in the second photograph looking into the joint, if the boot was intact, we would not be able to see the grease and the interior of the joint. We would see rubber between the shaft and the cylinder. Can anyone verify this?
 
There was no boot on my driveshaft either. Like I said before, your better off removing the shaft and having the double cardan joint welded on.
 
That "appears" to be the same design as the 4x4 Escape rear shaft. Looks to me like it should have a boot.....



This is out of an '05 Escape I fixed for my Mom.

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Well, I fat fingered the word shaft but you get the point!
 
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You are right Chad. I am better off installing the superlift shaft. I am doing more research then needed I guess. Curiousity has got me.



Unfortunately ford does not sell parts to take apart the CV joint at the transfer case. They only sell the entire drive shaft. What is nice though is that the Superlift Prt#9636 double cardon drive shaft is less expensive.



Chad, you mentioned welding. Is this assembly bolt on as well? I would like to whip out this install in my garage one evening. I dont have welding resources at my disposal.



Steve, thank you for the pictures of the Escape rear drive. I was curious to see what the interior of the joint looked like. Pretty cool. I think having both Chad and I verify that there is no exterior stock boot finishes that conversation. It also shows that on a stock shaft there is rubber filling the distance between the articulating shaft and the CV joint flange. Therefore you would not be able to see the lubrication within the joint like my earlier photos. This would also stop the grease from getting everywhere.
 
A driveshaft shop would have to cut off the stock CV joint and then weld on a double cardan joint and rebalance the shaft. When I did my SAS I had my superlift drive shaft modified to add a 9" slip joint for when the front end is flexed out. If you get a superlfit shaft make sure you buy a needle tip for your grease gun to grease the bearings in it. I never saw the grease fittings and destroyed the double cardan joint. Lesson learned the hard way.:banghead:
 
Does anyone have a photo of the superlift drive shaft installed? Chad, I am guessing that your slip joint is substantially different then what I would install, if not, a photo of your application would be great if you have one.
 
It is the same as the Superlift slip joint just "ALOT" longer. The Superlift does not need a long slip joint since the stock axle does not move. It is just long enough to install the drive shaft.
 
I installed the Super Lift Drive Shaft (Prt#9636) yesterday. I took photos and recorded the tools needed to post the info here. Has anyone noticed the double cardan joint humming at speeds of 45 and above?

The stock drive shaft was beginning to make a faint noise at higher speeds due to the joint loosing its lubrication. That is obviously gone and replaced by a new hum and slight vibration

 
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Make sure you get the needle tip for a grease gun, and I would put a little grease in there to double insure you have enough. That could be the possible noise issue???
 

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