A K
Well-Known Member
I swear when I looked into incentives this weekend, Ford offered 0% for 60 months or $1,000 cash back. Today, I saw 0% for 36 months + $1,000 back, or $3,500 back unfinanced. Did the promotions change over the weekend?
Ford 0%
- Thread starter A K
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Roger Batts
Well-Known Member
Manufacturers are changing promotions all the time. The one you saw this weekend may have expired over the weekend and was replaced by the ones you found today.
Ray McIntireJr
Well-Known Member
I think you may be right because I remember seeing something on certain Ford vehicles at 0% @ 60months. It may have even been trucks, Rangers, F150's & Super Duties. Wasn't that long ago either.
Adam,
Do the math. 0% is NOT always the best deal. Sometimes you can save money by paying intrest. Not all cases are that way, but in my personal case, 0% would have cost me $1,100.00.
Tom
Do the math. 0% is NOT always the best deal. Sometimes you can save money by paying intrest. Not all cases are that way, but in my personal case, 0% would have cost me $1,100.00.
Tom
A K
Well-Known Member
Tom,
Absolutely--speed of payback with interest and higher incentive versus same without interest and lower incentive. I was in the process of doing some calculations yesterday when I realized the change, thus prompting me to wonder if I was imagining things.
Absolutely--speed of payback with interest and higher incentive versus same without interest and lower incentive. I was in the process of doing some calculations yesterday when I realized the change, thus prompting me to wonder if I was imagining things.
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Gavin Allan
Well-Known Member
It is called future value of money. Future money is always worth less than present money.
Tommy Moore
Active Member
I always come out better to take all the rebates. If your credit is "iffy" then sometimes it may be better as far as a lower payment to take the "special rate" or the 0% for 60 or 72. Also, you better take all the rebates if you are not planning on keeping but 2 or 3 years or less or your feelings will be hurt when you try to trade it in or sell it!
David Roll
Active Member
I took the 0% 72 month on my 2010 ST-A in April of this year mostly because I had very little initial down payment available. This long loan allowed me a lower, more reasonable monthly nut to deal with, and to begin to climb out of the leasing hole I was in. I would rather own an older ST than have to continually lease a new vehicle.
Now I am building equity (initially I am behind the 8 ball with off-the-lot depreciation) but eventually I will pass the breakeven point where I will be able to sell the ST-A (heaven forbid) if I need to, and be able to walk away with some cash.
0% = free money
Lease = pay for initial depreciation of vehicle ($$$)
I also think that inflation is on the horizon with our current overspending. This will cause the current value of the $40,000 that I am borrowing at 0% to rise compared to its future value if the dollar is in for some devaluation. I will be "earning" at the rate of inflation.
Anyway, that's my 2 cents.
Now I am building equity (initially I am behind the 8 ball with off-the-lot depreciation) but eventually I will pass the breakeven point where I will be able to sell the ST-A (heaven forbid) if I need to, and be able to walk away with some cash.
0% = free money
Lease = pay for initial depreciation of vehicle ($$$)
I also think that inflation is on the horizon with our current overspending. This will cause the current value of the $40,000 that I am borrowing at 0% to rise compared to its future value if the dollar is in for some devaluation. I will be "earning" at the rate of inflation.
Anyway, that's my 2 cents.
Kevin Palmer
Well-Known Member
I explained this last year and in the end got the crap beat out of me as I MUST have been wrong and how can 0% not be a great deal ect ect ect....
I finally walked away from the post as it simply was no longer worth the hassle even after the math had been spelled out....
I finally walked away from the post as it simply was no longer worth the hassle even after the math had been spelled out....
In my case, when I got my Trac, 0%=a loss of 1,100.00
Tom
gary s
Well-Known Member
"I explained this last year and in the end got the crap beat out of me as I MUST have been wrong and how can 0% not be a great deal ect ect ect...."
0 % is a no brainer.
20K cash for paid for a new vehicle, or 20K 0%. the 20K at 0 % is the way to go.
0 % is a no brainer.
20K cash for paid for a new vehicle, or 20K 0%. the 20K at 0 % is the way to go.
IMO, having a short or no payment is the best. Never being locked down with a monthly payment is the best feeling there is. If dome right, 0% can be a great deal. In other cases, having a tiny monthly payment and paying it off sooner is the better route. In my personal case, I would have lost $1,100 by forgoing the rebate and getting the 0%, but not all cases are the same.
Tom
