Exhaust Temp at Tailpipe

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Shawn White

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I ended up having to remove my dynomax super turbo, recently the amount of time I spend driving at 65 to 75 has gone up to 90% of the time I spend in the car. I had welded the dynomax in and cut the stock resonator out awhile back. I had the dreaded 2K to 3K drone and it was staring to take a toll on me spending 2 hours a day at highway speed. :cry: The drone was worse when I turn off OD to tow. I didn't relaze how bad it was until my wife drove and I sat in the back seat, the truck was almost silent.



I had someone add a resonator back in and that got ride of the drone, but then the truck sounded like it had a kazoo stuck in the tail pipe. Everytime I stepped on the gas the exhuast sounded terrible with the windows down. I got great service and they installed a new tail pipe and OEM type muffler for free so it's nice and quiet. Glad to see people stand by their work.



One thing they pointed out is that they think the truck is running rich because the tail pipe runs pretty hot. Truck runs ok and has also had a running temp between 195 and 201 on my ultra gauge, no lean or rich codes reported by the PCM either. I figure that running temp is within bounds as the gauge on the dash shows normal and closed loop cooling systems tend to run 10 degree above the t-stat full open temp.



Having never wanted to touch the tail pipe before... I have no basis to say its running hotter or colder. Truck runs great and nice and silent now. Anyone heard of this before? I can touch the stainless steel tip but when running at highway speeds its hot, but does cool down with time at idle.
 
Sorry that you had to remove your exhaust system and return it basically back to stock.

The temp is normal. Your thermostat says 90-95c which is 194-203f. It has to be that high for emissions, which would make your exhaust temps higher.
 
Would be interested to hear of any fuel mileage changes, if any, after returning to stock.

I gained over two highway MPG when I used the SuperTurbo and deleted the resonator.

Strange that my interior drone is minimal in the 2-3K range, though it exits straight back. GL

 
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A few things I wish I would have done different with the dynomax were to place the muffler as close to the middle pipe hanger as possible. Mine was welded where the stock muffler started and then added a small section behind the dynomax. I also would have run the 2.5 inch pipe back from the muffler straight back, instead of using the stock pipe and dumping it to the side. That's the intersting thing about harmonics, small changes make or break the drone "lock on" frequency. If I had a welder and time I would have messed around with the placement a bit.



At 68 to 75 MPH the drone got old on a 4 hour rode trip.... But the dynomax had a great tone at idle and when you floored it.



The new set up isn't 100% stock, it has no resonator and has muffler that is oval like the dynomax, but its about 1.25 times longer. The new muffler is still a good bit smaller than the OEM. No drone and has a really minor amout of tone when you floor it. So far I didn't notice any change in fuel economy on a 45 mile drive.



 
Shawn,



The Leaner a motor runs. the hotter the exhaust will be. To rich of a mix can make the exhaust cooler.
 
The original install cost me 40 bucks to cut out the old mufler and weld the new one in, they also cut out the resonator and added a splicer pipe in. You might want to have the weld the new muffler welded in first and leave the stock resonator in. Start it up see how it sounds and take it for a spin at highway speeds. If you're happy your good to go, if you want a deeper tone you then have options. Its nicer not having to pay to add the resonator back in.



I had used a Dynomax Super Turbo 17733, Amazon has a good price on it.



http://www.amazon.com/Dynomax-17733-Super-Turbo-Muffler/dp/B00029J3C0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1349978282&sr=8-2&keywords=sport+trac+dynomax
 
The original install cost me 40 bucks to cut out the old mufler and weld the new one in, they also cut out the resonator and added a splicer pipe in. You might want to have the weld the new muffler welded in first and leave the stock resonator in. Start it up see how it sounds and take it for a spin at highway speeds. If you're happy your good to go, if you want a deeper tone you then have options. Its nicer not having to pay to add the resonator back in.



I had used a Dynomax Super Turbo 17733, Amazon has a good price on it.



http://www.amazon.com/Dynomax-17733-Super-Turbo-Muffler/dp/B00029J3C0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1349978282&sr=8-2&keywords=sport+trac+dynomax
 
Haven't heard of any ST using the "DRONE-FREE" Dynomax VT.
 
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Sounded much better than stock, had a slight bass to it. The flowmasters sound ok at idle to me, based on listen to clips on you tube. But the single in single out flowmasters sound a little raspy to me when you rev the engine at idle. The dynomax was much milder compared to the Flowmaster.
 
Yeah, just make sure you weld the back of the new muffler in as far back in the cut section as possible. You then add a splicer piece between the muffler and the the pipe coming from the CAT.



You can also cut out the reasonator, which makes the exhaust loader. But it can drone from 2K to 3K RPM. I would leave the resonator in first and see how you like it though, I wish I would have gone that route first.
 
You can also cut out the reasonator
Click to expand...



IMO, I would spend the $$ and go with a 2.5" out muffler. Then have a 2.5" tail pipe made.

End results is better sound and performance.
 
I was looking and does anyone have the thrush welded on their ST?? It might sound a bit louder but the reviews are mixed that it sounds great identical to flow master/too much drone piece of crap
 
Stonemiser has sound clips in his library from his '03.

Sounds like any two chambered Flowmaster 40 to me.
 
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