drum brakes

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Tim L

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Just hit 200k, I know it is time to change the rear drum brakes in the 2001. Still original!



I have done the front with no problem many times, but this weekend warrior is a little perplexed by the springs and part #s of the many websites I check. I am assuming I need to replace the brake drums and the brake shoes and the numerous springs, etc... I am confused at some auto websites, I assume I need the shoes that mention parking brake shoes?



Can anyone give me a quick list of what type of parts I will need to purchase so I can do this in say a few hours. Cant go into Sunday, Go Packers! A FIB transplant!



Thanks in advance



 
Drums brakes use the main brake shoes as the parking brake. The newer disk systems use a little drum brake inside the brake rotor for a parking brake, but the old drum brake system always used the main brakes as parking brakes.
 
If you want to make it easy, get the following...



Brake shoes

Hardware kit

if needed, wheel cylinders.



Take the drums off both sides. Only apart one side at a time. The left drum is a mirror image of the right. You may need to remove the adjustment plug and crank the shoes back in. I am sure the drums have a ridge on it that will make it next to impossible to remove the drum.



I will take a water hose and spray off the shoes before I start pulling everything apart. The removes any dust so you dont breeth rthat crap. There could be asbestos dust in there.



Use a digital camera to get a picture in case you have any questions about how it is suposed to look.



Get a friend that has done drum brakes before. They are not hard to do, but there are some tricks that he/she could teach you. The springs can be a pain.





Tom
 
Tom is right on in his points... The hardware/spring kit is cheap, and dealing with clean new parts is not only easier on the install, but it is smart, and many times overlooked maintenance. I always replace the spring kit when I do drum brakes.



The digital camera idea I have used many times. Take pictures from all angles.



I would only add that on the adjustor, I use a bit of powdered graphite to make them turn smooth.. I had used some axle grease (just a dab) or WD40, but I found that any of the wet lubricants will attract the brake dust and just gum it up that much faster. JMO
 
I would add, get the right tools to do the job. They are not all that expensive. Trying to use screw drivers and pliers to wrestle with those springs and clips are just a waste of time and an invitation to hurt yourself.
 
With 200K definitly replace the wheel cylinders. For their cost. Best not to hone and replce cups. Most likley pitted anyway.

If you need the hardware. As stated above, simpler to buy a kit. Instead of peicing it together. Clean the adjuster threads and use some neversieze on the threads. The grahfite the neversieze, will keep them from gimming up.



As others said, take a pic or one side at a time for reference.
 
Here are the service manual instructions. With all this info they should fly on there by themselves. As mentioned above, you may have to back off the shoe adjuster to get the drum off. 200K miles on rear shoes is pretty good!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You may want to invest in a few inexpensive universal brake tools to help you with the drum brakes. Not absolutely reqired, but make the job much easier. You should be able to fine all the tools at Harbor Freight, Wal Mart, etc for less than $20



1. Brake spring pliers. (big pliers with a large hooked jaw)

2. Brake adjusting tool (slightly bent flat bladed device)

3. Brake hold-down spring tool (shoes are held down to the backing plate with multiple nail/spring/retainer assembly)



You will also need several spray cans of Brake cleaner, and some high temperature brake grease.
 
I have always used full size vise grips. Large flat blade srcew driver with round shank and standard pliers. I can doo the job faster with those than I can with the brake tools..



For me the brake tools were more of a nusaince.
 
Thank you all for the advice and help, this is why I check this website almost daily. Got all of the replacment parts I think I will need. The AAP store guy mentioned that the tools dont always work well, but I got them anyway. Figured if dont have luck with regular tools, I can always break the seal and use them. I am know running out of time before the game, thus this will be next weekend's project.







 
Eddie,

I used to use visegrips and a screw driver for years. But once I got the hang of using the brake spring pliers I found it was so much easier and faster to use the right tool designed specifically for that job.



Also, some people who are not mechanically inclined can't figure out how to use a screwdriver or visegrips to install or remove brake springs.



...Rich
 
drum brakes on our 08 escape :cry:

2008 and still using drums on a suv :banghead:

now i know why it has the longest braking distance in its class
 
drum brakes on our 08 escape
Click to expand...



gary, dont know why. '06 and '07 ecape had rear disc. '01 to '05 drums.



Maybe ford found some drums, they forgot about...LOL



Your right 140ft, 60 to 0. I way to long for its weight.
 
Gm changed back to drums on it's full size pickups because their disk brake parking brake setup was a bad design. Maybe the Escape had a similar problem?
 
Well, started last night after work and finished about mid day Saturday. I took a bunch of pre pictures and the instructions from Steve M where awesome. After my learning curve with the 1st drum, the 2nd took alot less time. Only hang up - Chinese parts, the 1st universal kit I bought was missing 2 springs. Thanks again, figured this saved me a couple $$$:haveabeer:
 

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