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SportTrac Discussion
General Sport Trac Discussion
Driving Light Wiring
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<blockquote data-quote="Yardsale " data-source="post: 1026494" data-attributes="member: 58988"><p>That OEM fog light circuit from the battery (that goes to terminal 6 of the connector), has a 15A fuse, so high current is expected. I suspect that the KC lights pull more current than the OEM fog lights. If both sets of lights are on, the current will be at least double what the fog lights pull, probably more, and that will affect the circuit from the battery to wherever that circuit splits (one lead going to the fog and the other going to the driving lights). In that there is no way to reduce the current flowing through that circuit, an additional fuse would not help - where would it be placed?</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>You'd have to check the amps pulled by each set of lights to confirm, but it is possible that the higher current (with both sets of lights on) would blow the OEM 15A fuse. You may want to verify that the OEM switch for the driving lights can handle the current.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>If it were me, I'd run a separate wire and fuse from the battery to the driving light switch. The appropriate gauge wire and rated fuse were probably included in the KC kit; I'd use them.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Yardsale , post: 1026494, member: 58988"] That OEM fog light circuit from the battery (that goes to terminal 6 of the connector), has a 15A fuse, so high current is expected. I suspect that the KC lights pull more current than the OEM fog lights. If both sets of lights are on, the current will be at least double what the fog lights pull, probably more, and that will affect the circuit from the battery to wherever that circuit splits (one lead going to the fog and the other going to the driving lights). In that there is no way to reduce the current flowing through that circuit, an additional fuse would not help - where would it be placed? You'd have to check the amps pulled by each set of lights to confirm, but it is possible that the higher current (with both sets of lights on) would blow the OEM 15A fuse. You may want to verify that the OEM switch for the driving lights can handle the current. If it were me, I'd run a separate wire and fuse from the battery to the driving light switch. The appropriate gauge wire and rated fuse were probably included in the KC kit; I'd use them. [/QUOTE]
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SportTrac Discussion
General Sport Trac Discussion
Driving Light Wiring
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