My 2002 sport trac is a 2wd with 111,000 miles I have had it since new. Always did regular oil changes and have never had a problem till 2011. First the check engine light was on and I got a code 401/402. Snapped on a new DPFE Sensor ($49.00) in 10 minutes and the light went out the next day. Second she started missing bad and the check engine light started flashing so had to have it towed. Two fuel injectors had shut down and it was pumping fuel past them onto the pistons. I should have used a fuel additive more often. Had them all replaced and new oil change. Third the inside door handles at both rear doors stopped working so had to open them from outside. I replaced both of those. That's the extent of my problems in 10 years. I just had the differential oil changed, transmission flushed, and new spark plugs. The regular problems I have seen on here and other websites concern the differential and wheel bearings. These are confusing though because many complaints don't mention if they are 2wd or 4wd. I found that the differential problems are not bad on the 2wd models and not sure on the front wheel bearings. Many say the front hub and bearings are a sealed unit on all but I'm inclined to think the 2wd drive models are just regular bearings and races. Also some have replaced the serpentine belt along with the tensioner and pulley wheel. I am planning a trip of approx. 5,000 miles total and my question is should I mess with the serpentine belt system and wheel bearings at this stage if I am not having any problems with them. Also cooling system working fine but it has never been changed. Any advise on these matters would be welcome, Thanks.
Cross Country Drive
- Thread starter O W
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Gavin Allan
Well-Known Member
My $0.02:
1. Flush, inspect, test, and refill the cooling system.
2. Go ahead and change the belt and tensioner.
If you can only do one of the above now, do #1. You can examine the belt and see if there is anything obvious that is going to give you trouble.
1. Flush, inspect, test, and refill the cooling system.
2. Go ahead and change the belt and tensioner.
If you can only do one of the above now, do #1. You can examine the belt and see if there is anything obvious that is going to give you trouble.
Vic Sorlie
Well-Known Member
I agree with Gavin's advice. If you've never done a coolant service, you're way overdue. Changing the serpentine belt is a 10 minute job - just make sure that the underhood belt routing diagram is still there. If not, draw yourself a diagram before you remove the old one. (Ask me how I know)
Thanks Gavin and Vic. I will get on the coolant flush as I realize now I am definitely overdue. I have been told by some that these serpentine belts last forever and its more likely the pulley or the tensioner pulley will wear enough to throw the belt first? It looks like some tight going in there just to get breaker bar on the tensioner to change belt without removing the shroud. Is it hard to get in there to replace those pulleys? I agree about the belt route diagram as I also take a picture before removing. I also take a picture of drum brakes before removing shoes and springs etc and that has got me out of trouble a few times.
Vic Sorlie
Well-Known Member
Serpentine belts develop cracks over time, the same as cars that have rubber timing belts. It's very easy to check the condition of your serp belt; look at where it passes over the water pump rib side up. If it needs to be changed you don't need to pull off the fan shroud. My son has my old '02 Gen1, and it has original tensioner on it at 100K miles and no problems. I haven't priced them, but don't think they're all that much, so replacing yours might be worth peace of mind for your trip.
Gavin Allan
Well-Known Member
I used to work for Dayco. The surpentine belts often have aramid (Kevlar) fibers in them. We used to use old belts for rigging slings when moving equipment. Those belts would hold incredible amounts of weight!
