Calling Tyler, XST, Adam, and Others with Mystery Stalling Issue(s)

[Chris M 2]

Hey Tyler, XST, Adam and anyone else with (or who had) a mystery stalling problem:



Your Tracs have all had (or still have?) the same problem mine has now... the mystery stalling problem that no amount of cleaning, part replacing, and diagnosis can seem to locate or fix.



My question is this: Have any of you been able to solve the issue definitively? I'm still looking for a solution, trying to narrow down the possibilities, and have come up empty so far.



If any of you three (or anyone else) has been able to permanently solve this issue in their Trac, please let me know what you did to fix it.



So far I have:



* Cleaned the MAF sensor (twice)

* Cleaned the throttlebody

* Cleaned the IAC

* Done the SeaFoam treatment

* Replaced the fuel filter

* Replaced PCV valve

* Replaced gas cap

* Wiggled wires, hoses, connections with the engine running

* Had an honest, reliable, talented, experienced mechanic try and diagnose the problem to no avail (he said "replace the IAC," which I'm gonna try)



Possible causes/fixes others have suggested that I've yet to check/try (forgive me if any of these are the same thing; I'm too new at this to know otherwise):



* Torque converter in the tranny

* Crankshaft position sensor

* Camshaft position sensor

* Replacing the mass airflow sensor

* DPFE Sensor

* Torque converter clutch solenoid

* Controls for EGR system malfunctioning and allowing exhaust gas into the intake air

* Throttle Position Sensor

* Lockup solenoid for the transmission

* Wires being pinched when the motor shifted when put into gear... caused by a bad motor mount

* Bad gas or water in the gas (last two stalls occurred the day after a fill-up at the same station)

* EGR valve

* Low idle speed



Again, I'm asking anyone with a positive outcome to this problem to please chime in...

 

[Joshua Mercer]

Sounds wierd but i used to have a stalling issue with another vehicle, and went through the checklist that you have posted.. Nothing worked. Then i found out using a multimeter that it was the Coolant Tempature Sensor. cheap part and worth trying.

 

[Chris Kulbaba]

I did, by doing what I mentioned to you in another thread.



Does it stall when coming to a stop? If you put it in neutral before it stalls does it keep running?



Torque converter lockup solenoid.



I thought it was all those things, and the more you look online the more things it could be. If it only stalls when coming to a stop, and not always, try to put it in neutral, if it recovers from the stall, rev it a couple times, put it in gear and should be good to go again. If this is what happens I am positive its teh TC lockup Solenoid.

 

[scott degroot]

This is an important question...does it sputter and die while you are actually driving down the road with your foot on the gas, like maintaining speed on the road, or does it do it after you have taken your foot off of the gas and are still moving? At what speeds does/has the problem occured?

 

[Chris M 2]

You're not gonna believe this, but it has happened in both scenarios... sometimes it happens when I take my foot off the gas and coast, and sometimes it happens when I accelerate. It has occurred at both low and high speeds.



Once the engine just plain stopped in mid-acceleration... no stuttering or stalling, the engine just plain cut off.



I'm outta answers... otherwise I wouldn't be posting so much.



Thanks XST for your reply... I will certainly try that the next time it happens.

 

[scott degroot]

From your description of the problem I can guarantee you that it is not the IAC as it has no control while accelerating. It is not torque converter/solenoid related becasue a torque converter lockup problem is only a problem when slowing down in relation to stalling. It is not the egr system, an open egr valve would not casue stallig under acceleration becasue that is when it is supposed to be open...sort of. . Just a question did your mech bother to check the current waveform of the fuel pump, just becasue pressure and volume is good doesn't mean that the pump is good..........

 

[Chris M 2]

Hey, first of all, thanks l1tech for all the time (and typing!) you are putting in to help me solve this... it's much appreciated.



The mechanic explained quite a lot, answered all my questions, and spent quite a lot of time with me talking about the problem. I don't think we talked about "waveform" of the fuel pump... at least I don't recall that terminology being used in our discussion.



Another thing I should probably ask him about is the plugs and wires. Someone else said misfires don't always show up as a thrown code.

 

[scott degroot]

Ford is the worse there is as far as reporting misfires, however if your mech knows what he is doing he can find misfire information in what is called "mode 6" data that most "good" scan tools have, but again a misfire will not just shut off a vehicle when it happens so I would rule out the plugs and wires also. The 2 main and most important inputs that these engines have is the crank sensor and the cam sensor. The crank sensor tells the pcm which cylinder is which adn basically the position of #1 cylinder and then everything is timed off of this. When this sensor goes bad you can be driving along adn it will act as if somebody just shut the key off or if it starts to "glitch" can cause stumbling and stalling and then all of a sudden act ok...kind of like your description.

 

[Chris M 2]

Thanks for that info. I'll call the guy and ask him about the things you mentioned.

 

[Chris Kulbaba]

If its doing it when you are on the accelerator, its not what I suggested I dont think. When it was happening to me it was ONLY when coming to a stop or going slow around a corner.