broke AND lost sway bar endlinks in the mud

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Mike Sove

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Ok, after searching for a few hrs i see ALOT of posts about new/better bushings... BUT i need everything EXCEPT the sway bar.. Playing in the mud today I broke both endlinks and lost them before i realized they were broken.. I have TT/SL on my 04, and i've read that i can buy longer pieces FOR my lifted trac.. Anybody already done this homework by any chance?? i.e., web addresses for ordering or part numbers? i need it all.. sleeves, bolts, bushings, nuts, washers lol.. thanks guys!:banghead::banghead:
 
I made a set of longer endlinks to match the TT and it actually made it worse, went back to Moogs endlinks and haven't had any problems since. If you really wanna get something for more flex up front you can get quick disconnects but you'll need limiting straps if you go the route. Go to explorerforum.com and try some jeep forums as well. I'm just buying time with these endlinks and shocks until I do the SAS.
 
I made a set of longer endlinks to match the TT and it actually made it worse



Jerry, what got worse? You should always make your end links match your lift or drop.



If you lift 2". You make the end link center, between bushings 2" longer. If you drop down 2" you make the end link center, between bushings 2" shorter. Law of sway bar working geometry.
 
Eddie- Shortening and overtightening were the primary reasons I was popping Moog end link bushings.

When I shortened the sleeves 2.5" the bushings were not sitting flat on the eyelets, as shown below.

Jerry previously mentioned the Moog bushings are made of soft rubber and not polyurethane, like the ES.

I'm back to the standard 5.5" Moog sleeve length with no problems since. (Not shown)



[Broken External Image]:[Broken External Image]:
 
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Steve, I noticed that the trac sway bars eyelets are bent downward. Never had that on other vehicles. That does create a different delima. I still believe in some shortening or lentghing.



I never had good success with energy suspension bushings. They crumbled too easy. This was on my lowerd '88 t-bird and '94 stang. I drove them very agresive in curves and turns.



I dont think the moogs are rubber. IMO, they appear to be something else. I put them in a small vice for a test, against the rubber ones. They have more crush resistance than the rubber ones.



Im still running the moogs 3/4" shorter at stock hiegth. No problems and definitly quiker response.
 
Thanks Eddie. Great info, as always from you.

Wishing you the best in 2011. Aloha Bro!
 
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Since I went back to the stock length Moogs I haven't had any issues with crushed the bushings or cornering. With the longer endlinks I made to match the lift I would lean more(then with stock length) which i didn't understand but I'm gonna stick with what works and is safest for my wife and I to drive the ST. I agree that you should match the endlinks with the lift or drop but for some reason my ST and apparently Steve's ST (dropped and lifted) doesn't work and just blows out bushings. the Moogs are a harder rubber then stock but They have crushed when the poly's I had on there for awhile didn't. I'm back with Moogs and will stick withthem until I do the SAS. I've always listened and taken your advice and it's helped me out greatly over the years and will coontinue doing so. Thanks again Eddie.

:banana:

 
i still have no clue what im going to do.. right now the swaybars ziptied up out of the way.. more than likely going to do quick disconnects...
 
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