Nick Miller
Active Member
I'm having trouble with my brakes ( 2002 Sport Trac, 4x4, 74000 miles). When coming to a stop, the pedal drops slowly a little bit and make a creaking/groaning noise. What could be wrong?
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Brake problems
- Thread starter Nick Miller
- Start date
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Ed Fenwick
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2008
- Messages
- 1,028
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- Location
- Kea'au, HI
- What engine do you have?
- V6 engine
- What year is your Sport Trac?
- 2002
- What Generation is your Sport Trac?
- 1st Gen Owner
Nick, check the pads in the front. Where is the noise coming from?
Vic Sorlie
Well-Known Member
Original brakes on this beast? If yes, Ed has it nailed. Your front brakes are shot. Replace rotors and pads. Inspect rear drums and shoes - you may be able to defer them, but think what new brakes all 'round will do for your driving satisfaction. Don't forget to flush brake fluid. Very important.
Nick Miller
Active Member
New pads and rotors( installed today,had problem before and after new parts) noise coming from dash(driver side)?
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Mark Price 2
Active Member
did you/threy lubricate the "ears" of the new pads? lubricate slide pins? lubricate the slippers(metal shims the ears of the pads ride on? Can you elaborate a little bit more on "pedal drops slowly a little bit"?
Drivers side dash? Could be suspension issues
Drivers side dash? Could be suspension issues
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Nick Miller
Active Member
Everything was lubed. When coming to a stop, pedal is firm then pedal drops( but not all the way to the floor) then firm again. Doesn't happen if press pedal while parked.
Mark Price 2
Active Member
Pop the hood and take a look. Check brake booster hose is hooked up and ok. Look at master cylinder to be sure there are no leaks there and the cap is on tight. All behind drivers dash area
Nick,
If those are the original brake pads, and you have never had a brake job done, or the fluid flushed, then you probably need a complete brake overhaul which includes replacing or rebuilding the calipers and possibly the rear wheel cylinders
The problem is that brake fluid attracts moisture in the air and since water is heavier than brake fluid, the water settles to the lowest parts of the brake system which is the calipers and wheel cylinders. That water is very corrosive and will cause brake pistons to stick and the heat will turn the water to steam causing very erradic brake performance.
You can rebuild the calipers and wheel cylinders, but sometimes they are so corroded you cannot rebuild them. I always buy rebuilt calipers from a reputable autoparts store. Many rebuilt calipers come with 50K mile to lifetime warranties...and they are not all that expensive.
Also, you should flush the brake fluid every 2-3 years to remove the old contaminated fluid and prevent corrosion damage to the calipers and wheel cylinders.
Another tip is DO NOT push the pistons back into their bores when installing new brake pads, without opening the bleed nut. If you just push the pistons back, it pushes all that contaminated fluid back up into the ABS unit and if that gets corroded, you are in for some very expensive repairs $$$. I always recommend that you open the bleed screw and drain out that old fluid and Flush out all the old fluid everytime you do a brake job or every 2-3 years, whichever comes first. Yes, that means you will have to bleed the brakes, but it's the only way to insure you will have good brakes.
Since you have already replaced your pads and you still have the same brake problems, install rebuilt calipers and flush the brake system...I'll bet that will get your brakes working again.
...Rich
If those are the original brake pads, and you have never had a brake job done, or the fluid flushed, then you probably need a complete brake overhaul which includes replacing or rebuilding the calipers and possibly the rear wheel cylinders
The problem is that brake fluid attracts moisture in the air and since water is heavier than brake fluid, the water settles to the lowest parts of the brake system which is the calipers and wheel cylinders. That water is very corrosive and will cause brake pistons to stick and the heat will turn the water to steam causing very erradic brake performance.
You can rebuild the calipers and wheel cylinders, but sometimes they are so corroded you cannot rebuild them. I always buy rebuilt calipers from a reputable autoparts store. Many rebuilt calipers come with 50K mile to lifetime warranties...and they are not all that expensive.
Also, you should flush the brake fluid every 2-3 years to remove the old contaminated fluid and prevent corrosion damage to the calipers and wheel cylinders.
Another tip is DO NOT push the pistons back into their bores when installing new brake pads, without opening the bleed nut. If you just push the pistons back, it pushes all that contaminated fluid back up into the ABS unit and if that gets corroded, you are in for some very expensive repairs $$$. I always recommend that you open the bleed screw and drain out that old fluid and Flush out all the old fluid everytime you do a brake job or every 2-3 years, whichever comes first. Yes, that means you will have to bleed the brakes, but it's the only way to insure you will have good brakes.
Since you have already replaced your pads and you still have the same brake problems, install rebuilt calipers and flush the brake system...I'll bet that will get your brakes working again.
...Rich
Yardsale
Well-Known Member
Lube the booster input shaft where it enters the firewall.
Vic Sorlie
Well-Known Member
Nick, I'd eliminate the obvious first: Do (or have done) a thorough brake fluid flush then test drive. If you're still having problems then I agree with Richard L's advice. You may well have caliper problems. You've got a 10+ year old car; if it hasn't had new brake fluid every 2-3 years then internal corrosion is likely. Brakes are critical. Don't wait.
