brake lines

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Dennis Shelley

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Aug 28, 2003
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Location
Urbandale, IA
the 2001 ST had a bad flex brake line, passenger side, ftont. Attempting to remove the flex hose caused it to shear off the hard line (chassis side).

Bought a 3/16 brake line, 40" long at O'Riely's. Bent the tube to resemble the old line. Some slack on the new line but did some routing to absorb this.

So the original hard line from the master cylinder (ABS unit) was cut below the motor, where the tubing is captured by a plastic clip. Now on my back, with crud falling down, cut the brake line with a tubing cutter. Using a HIGH QUALITY Flaring tool carefully set up to do a double flare. On this replacement the brake flares are a double flare. First attempt failed (leaked). O.K took it apart, recut, reflared, more grit in face, Removed the flaring tool. All looked good. Cleaned all fittings, connected new flared end of existing factory tube to to new fitted, bent tube, tightened all and IT HELD. So much work to replace a bad flex line. But the flex was rusted/welded to the chassis solid line.

The ST has 2005,000 miles. This is the second flex line replacement.

So much to learn:banana:

Dennis

Oh, Yeah the ST ws bought Salvage Title in 2002, Lots of miles, lots of good times. the ST has paid many times over
 
Wow, a lot of gritty work. I don't like working under a car either. Good job, 'glad it worked out for you. Do you have too many zeros in the mileage?

God bless Ed
 
If you bought it with a Salvage Title and you are having major rust issues, I'm guessing the truck was atleast partially submerged in water at some time, and that's why it had a salvage title. You also live in the snow belt and if they used salt on the roads, that contributed to the rust



It was probably from the Gulf Coast or East Coast and got flooded by a hurricane.



A good penetrating oil may have saved you some grief...also using tubing wrenches helps prevent tearing up the fittings. Then again, sometimes they cannot be saved, no matter what you do.



...Rich
 
I did a brake line job on an old Aerostar a while back. Couple comments...



1) Best to practice the double flare on a piece of scrap brake line first.

2) You don't have to exactly follow the routing of the old line. You can even leave the old line in place. Just route the new line safely.

3) I notice the brake line is no longer zinc plated like years past, it now comes with this brownish-green coating. Supposedly better to handle the brine they are spraying on the roads in the winter time.



 
All flares in brake systems are double flares. Tubing wrench can save the day. Always back up the fitting with another wrench so you don't torque the brake lines.
 
Yeah I messed up on the mileage, it is 205,000

The ST was a salvage, hit hard in the left rear. I replaced the rear axle, transfer case and three wheels. Also body work on the bed. No water/submerged issue. the rusted brake line at issue was last replaced 8 years ago, This time for two weeks prior to replacement I hit it with penetrating oil. When replaced last time iit barely came apart (rust). Brake fluid with all it's quailities is very corrosive. Learned the hard way, after any metal is in contact with brake fluid, wash with soap/water, rinse, dry, cleanse with carb cleaner, wipe dry, spray with paint.

Now searching for a replacement line, to replace the line I made. Looks kike the dealer is the source. will get this done :driving:

Dennis
 

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