Any tips on negotiating price on new cars?

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michael b

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I thought I might look at the cheaper model new cars just for the heck of it. I usually just figure the sticker price is what it will cost me---Can you negotiate on the price of a new car? I'm just looking at the under 20k cars that are good on gas etc. Thanks for any help.
 
go to edmunds.com it will show you what msrp is and what most people pay also go to the manufacture web site and see if their are any rebates so the dealer does not sell you a car and not tell you about rebate and make more money.
 
go to edmunds.com and lookup the car you're interested in. Then do an appraisal and see what other people are paying. Then remember that is the average for people in your area, take that price, knock of a few percentage points and offer the dealer that.



For instance, my wife and I bought a new hyundai, edmunds said to pay 22,600 or so, we offered the dealer 20,000, they countered with 21,000 or so, slightly below dealer invoice, maybe $400 below invoice. You can usually get away with paying invoice on anything that isn't in high demand, most manufactuers give the dealer a kickback for selling the car, so even if they don't make money on the sale they'll make money on the kickback.



Good luck
 
Do your research on line. Compare models from different manufacturers. Decide which model best suits your needs, then go after it. Don't be afraid to compare your vehicle against competitors with the salesman. Know the price you are willing to pay before you get to the dealer. Also, it is good to find your own financing before you go to the dealer, as it is a common ploy used by dealers to inflate the price.

Once you have a price in your head, keep insisting on it. The dealer will keep quoting you higher, and offering little for your trade in. Stick to your guns, and if necessary, don't be afraid to walk away. When I bought my Trac, the dealer called me back twice after I refused his price. Shop after the 20th of the month, the dealers keep thier books monthly.
 
When I bought the ST I paid dealer invoice minus the rebates. When I bought my SVT Focus they had a 3500.00 rebate if you paid cash. I financed it through Capital One and they sent me check for the amount I negotiated. I paid dealer invoice minus the 3500.00. I have never paid for a car over dealer invoice. The dealer has so many incentives they are still making money of the sale. They don't give it to you then walk away because another dealer will or they will come running to get your business. Sales of cars are down right now so you they want to sell a car. Don't get locked into the box game with them on the price and how much your willing to pay monthly. And, another thing I do...I tell them they have an hour to complete the sale. Otherwise, they are wasting my time haggling back in forth with the new car sales manager.
 
Everyone else is right. Never, ever pay more than invoice for a car. It's a buyer's market, so you have the upper hand. Do you homework prior to going in to the dealer. Know the invoice price (find it on Edmunds, Kelly Blue Book, etc.) And also have a pre-approved loan. That way, you can decide whether or not to take dealer financing. That's more leverage for you, because you know exactly how much you're planning to spend, and also because the dealer makes a commission on their financing also.



The biggest thing is don't get emotionally wrapped up in the prospective new car. If you do, the dealer will smell it like sharks after blood in the water, and you'll have lost. If you they won't meet your price, get up and walk out and go to the next dealer.



Also, wait until the end of the month, go in on the last, or next to last day, about 3-4 hours or so prior to the dealer closing and take your time. They're going to want to make a sale at the end of the month, and they'll stay as long as it takes to do so. I once kept a dealer 2 hours after they closed negotiating, and I got my price. It's a mind game, a battle of wills, and you've got to be stronger.
 
Contact a number of members here that work for Ford. Ask them for an X-plan PIN. They give you x-plan price and you buy vehicle. No hassles, no haggeling, no nothing.



Simple as pie.





Tom
 
Really? People here will give out a x-plan pin? Hell, what's the x-plan price of a new sport trac?



I'm thinking about getting one, but not until the end of the model year. My current one is on hold for mods until then. Think they'll start upping the rebates on them?
 
See, now I'm on the D-Plan and they told me there was no negotitating what so ever because I'm getting it at $1000 over "what the dealer pays," Is this true?
 
Greg, You must work for, or a member of your family, a Ford dealer. The difference between D-Plan and A/Z-Plan is the A Plan is ever so slightly cheaper. The D-Plan price is less then the dealer will pay. Before you sign anything, you must look at the invoice. There is a box that shows you the D-Plan price. You pay that price only. You also subtract any and all rebates unless specified by Ford that those rebates are no aplicable to A,D,X, or Z Plans. Those are usually those given away at car shows for an extra $500.00 off your best deal.



R1ch999999, Give me the VIN number, ZIP code and name of the dealer that has the exact vehicle you want to get a price of. I can get you the X-Plan price of those. If you plan to special order, you can only get a ballpark figure of the price, not an exact price. If there is one on the lot, then you can get an exact price.





Tom
 
I researched our auto on Edmonds.com before our purchase. Great info and I knew what I was going to pay even before I went to a dealer. Searched local lots and we would have to order one to our specs (color of choice). Turns out the dealer had the same model in a different color with a few more options than we wanted and we got that car at the price that I was willing to pay.



If you plan to do a trade in, do not let them know until after you have negotiated an out the door price for the auto. Then talk about the trade in, BUT only after you have negotiated the new car price without trade in.
 
i bought my trac used, and what i did was pick a price i was willing to pay on it, and took a check in (obviously i guess it would be different if you weren't paying with a check) and had it already written out and signed and handed it to the guy and said "make it work". dealer's wont turn down money already in their hand. and sure enough it worked. i talked him down a lot on my '03.
 
Of course it depends on availability also. I got mt 02 Trac at less then dealer invoice because they had a ton of them and they weren't selling that hot then. Last month when I bought my wife's 06 Toyota RAV4 I paid a grand over invoice but still less then edmunds.com "average" price. But it's the hottest vehicle on the market these days and very tough to find. Also, the dealer markup on Toyota's seems to be considerably less then Ford or GM and Toyota is not hurting for sales.
 

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