Travis,
Sure. My only caveat is that I have not detailed the Trac in about nine months and am currently looking for a reputable shop around the Philly area. After a while, 2-3 day details lose their fun.
When I did detail it, though:
(1) Wash the entire vehicle with Dawn to strip off the last application of Zaino (from a few months previous). I do not recommend washing with Dawn often, but every few months will not hurt. In the interim, that is, when it is detailed, I would wash with Zaino Z-7 car wash concentrate.
(2) After washing with Dawn, dry the vehicle (or use a Mr. Clean AutoDry). Then, using a fresh bucket of Dawn soapy water, clay bar the vehicle. Always be sure to use adequate lubrication because the clay will tend to stick to a dry surface, and can scratch. Once all surfaces are clay barred, run your finger to feel the smoothness. If it is is smooth, then the job is done. Pay special attention to the rear doors and the curve where the body and bed meet. This area is notoriously rough and needs a good clar bar application.
(3) This step is optional; I only recommend it once per year. Using a random orbital buffer (I use the Porter Cable 7424 with Sonus' SFX pad line - Sonus by Autopia has since changed the names of their pads, and I do not remember what they are called), I buff all surfaces. I only use the SFX-2 (light abrasiveness) pad and the SFX-3 (finishing) pad coupled with Sonus' respective polishes (numbered the same). These two will take out most of the scratches to the clearcoat. Because, however, this process removes paint (albeit very, very, very thin layer of clearcoat), I only recommend it once per year. Some folks do it more, but I would rather scratches than a slightly thinner clear coat. Do not worry here - you are not stripping the paint. You are merely removing 1/10,000th of the clearcoat. I'm just neurotic. Nevertheless, you buff until the polish breaks down (creates white dust). Using a buffer is an art, and one that I am still not fully comfortable with. I recommend reading anything and everything on Autopia concerning use of a buffer. I also DO NOT recommend the buffers from K-Mart, Wal-Mart, etc. These do not spin fast enough to do any work; the Porter Cable is adjustable (not by increments but between) 1000 RPM and 6000 RPM. The speed is what generates the heat, which breaks down the polish, which buffs out the surface of the paint and removes scratches.
(4) After buffing, wash it again. Buffing leaves dust from the polish breaking down. Applying wax over an unwashed surface is like applying wax to a dirty surface.
(5) Dry the entire vehicle and make sure there are no water spots. You will seal the surfaces, and for that flawless look, use a little piece of the clay bar to remove any spots that did not etch into the clearcoat or through into the black paint.
(6) I use Zaino. Opinions on wax are like anuses (ani?). You know the rest. However, I can say from testing many, many products that Zaino and Klasse products offer the longest protection. Meguiars and Turtle Wax can mimic the shine, and NXT lasts decently long, but no where as long or with the durability of Zaino or Klasse. There is a reason Zaino and Klasse call themselves sealants, while others are waxes. That being said, I begin with a layer of Z-5 with the ZFX additive. Then wipe off. I then apply Z-2 PRO with ZFX, and wipe off. I repeat this once more. Thus, four coats of Zaino are on the vehicle. Between each coat, I spray the surface with Z-8 Spray Seal. After the 4th coat (Z-2), I spray the surface once more with Z-8.
(7) Once the painted surfaces are done, I use the claybar on all glass to remove water spots. I recommend a diluted Vinegar solution (10 to 1 or so) as the cleaner.
(8) Last are the odds and ends. I will use 303 Aerospace Protectant on the lockable cover, splash guards, roof rails, etc.<
