A little truck love today and an annoying problem

[H D]

92,800 miles



I just changed the oil, Valvoline Full Synthetic 10w30, replaced the air filter with a K&N, checked fluids and wiped down the leather.



Only one problem and it's been eluding me since it started. I have had a power steering fluid leak and I cannot find the source. It's been leaking since I had an alignment and camber kit installed by some pros.:banghead: I don't want to blame them, but it certainly didn't exist until the day I got it home from their shop.



I've been topping off with Valvoline Max Life w/ Stop Leak but would love to truly fix the problem. It's all over the front side of the control arm but I cannot find the source. I just seem to have a wet control arm dripping power steering fluid onto the ground. Is there a common issue I should check for? Leaks have always been easy for me to locate before but this one is different. I've had it up on stands and had my wife turning the steering wheel lock to lock and holding for a few seconds at each end but still nothing noticeable.



Also waiting on the Tahoe engine to cool down so I can change the oil in it. This south Georgia heat and that V8 sure heat things up quick. Drove it home less than 5 miles from my wife's work and 4 hours later I'm still not comfortable pouring that oil all over my hand. This is my first oil change on any Chevy but let me just say that I'm already amazed at how they designed the lip of a skid plate to extend directly below the drain plug. Looking forward to the mess.:angry:

 

[Richard L]

Hugh,

I cannot see anything they would have done during an alignment that would cause a power steer fluid leak? I suspect it is just a coincidence.



You might want to dry everything off and check in the morning....that will determine if it is pressure related or a just a loose fitting.



...Rich

 

[Todd Z]

IF they cranked the inner tie rod ends they could have messed the inner seals.....

I bet it is a pressure line that runs around the pump in that area, Or the rack itself....



Have to look all around the hoses and fittings and you will find the leak..



My 2003 had a pressure hose fail...





Todd Z

 

[EddieS'04]

Hugh cut the bands on the rack and pinion boots. My guess is the seals are leaking.

There might be times under higher pressures. Fluid is squirting from the boots.

Shouldnt be any PS fluid inside the boots.

Use tiewraps or hose clamps to put them back.

 

[Henry Suarez]

Rack and Pinion!!!!! I had to change it twice on my Gen 1. Real Pain in the a-- job plus you must re-align the truck.

 

[H D]

Forgot to mention that they also changed the driver's side inner tie rod end. And I think Eddie is right. It does look as if it is coming from the boots. I can't get to this tonight and actually probably not until Tuesday or Wednesday.



Do y'all think I should be expecting to just change some seals or changing the entire rack and pinion? Cost?



Thanks, as always, great help from this forum.

 

[Henry Suarez]

You can't change the seals. The whole rack has to be replaced. NAPA was the cheapest place I found.

 

[EddieS'04]

The shop should have inspected the seals on both ends, before installing the inner tie rod.

it certainly didn't exist until the day I got it home from their shop.

Any case you will need to get a rebuilt unit without the inners, if possible. I hope you dont have to eat the cost of the one inner.

Most of the time The rebuilts come with both inners. At least what I have seen from freinds replacements. Been lucky enough myself, to never need one. Well, my '88 t-bird did. I told the buyer about it. It started leaking about the same time it went up for sale. The 'stang was the replacement. Wasnt going to spend anymore $ on the bird.



Is it the side they replaced leaking? If so I would complain for some type of restitution. With 92K miles the unit should have been thoroghly inspected, before replacing the inner. IMO, the shop didnt do their job.



IMO a pro mechanic would have sujested a complete replacment, 'cause of milage.

 

[H D]

Yeah, a pro shop is an overstatement. I just moved to this small town and went with who my wife's family has been using for most maintenance. I got my tires from them and the owner is a great guy but I do not trust the mechanics for anything other than mounting tires. My mistake, should have trusted my gut. They're really just a tire shop.



Got some research to do. What is the skill level and time commitment if I do this myself? I'm pretty mechanical but I hated rebuilding the suspension on my '69 Cougar. I didn't want to mess with this truck's suspension until replacing with a solid axle. Oh well, because the solid axle is at least a year off right now.:banghead:

 

[Jerry Gerner 2]

It's not that hard to do, I haven't done it on a ST but have replaced a R&P on different vehicles before and it's not too difficult of a job.

 

[H D]

Ok, so I'm going to have to do this apparently. I'm trying to decide between buying on RockAuto or a local parts store. The RockAuto prices aren't really any better, even with the discount code. The longevity of this part need only be a couple years at most in the hopes that I can get a solid axle under there before any other suspension/steering work.



I am choosing between ACDelco (familiar), A-1 Cardone (unfamiliar) and Fenco (unfamiliar). With differences in prices less than $50, I'm leaning toward ACDelco. Another option I haven't done any legwork on yet is a junkyard R&P. Remember, I only need a couple years out of it, if that. I am trying to be cheap, but I don't want to put a problematic part into my truck. That's mainly why I haven't seriously looked at a junkyard yet.



Opinions? Recommendations?

 

[Shawn Ford]

I have a gen 2 sporttrac and I see fluid coming from around the boots, a lot. I see on rock auto there is a seal kit for it and I was wondering if it is what I’m hoping to be the problem and how difficult it would be if it is the right part

 

[Shawn Ford]

I bought that kit and I’m trying to rebuild the rack and pinion and there is a plastic piece on the bottom of the input shaft and it has 4 notches on it anyone know how to get this off?